27885 An optimized formulation of retinol with a specific sensory profile upregulates antiaging biomarkers for both prevention and rejuvenation of the skin

Abstract

Millenials and Gen Z consumers are seeking a skin care treatment that would address both prevention and rejuvenation skin needs, with a sensory profile tailored to these target consumer’s esthetic preferences, be fast-absorbing, and capable of significant induction of antiaging biomarkers. Retinol is an ingredient proven to deliver on both skin needs given its pleiotropic skin benefits. New formulations were developed with ingredients that would deliver both on the sensory profile while at the same time maintain retinol’s antiaging efficacy. Encapsulated retinol was used to further preserve retinol’s bioactivity. A peptide that stimulates concerted and coordinated synthesis of the principal constituents of elastic fibers was added in order to combat facial flaccidity. These ingredients were all formulated together at different dosages and tailored with a specific sensory profile for application in the face, neck, and eye areas. The resulting formulas’ bioactivity was evaluated through gene and protein production using human skin explants ex vivo. Gene expression results indicated that face and neck formulas significantly induced heparin-binding EGF-like growth factor, cellular retinoic-acid binding protein-2, and hyaluronan synthase-3, associated with retinol-induced antiaging benefits. Histology results confirmed these data and demonstrated that this enhanced formulation showed significant elastin protein production. These results demonstrated that these ingredient combinations, optimized in formulations with specific sensory profiles, resulted in a significant upregulation of retinol-induced anti-aging biomarkers (≥2.5 to 5-fold induction vs untreated tissues), and addressed the specific skincare needs of this young consumer segment.