24—THE EFFECT OF FIBRE PROPERTIES AND WEAVE CRIMP ON THE HYGRAL EXPANSION OF WOVEN WOOL FABRICS

Abstract

A study is reported in which 53 plain-weave and 55 twill-weave fabrics were produced under nominally identical conditions from different wool lots ranging greatly in fibre properties. The hygral expansion of these fabrics was measured and related to the various fibre properties and weave crimp. It was found that fabric geometry, as reflected in weave crimp, was the most important factor contributing to hygral expansion, higher weave crimp leading to higher hygral expansion. Weave crimp also increased with an increase in staple crimp, as did hygial expansion, the effect of staple crimp being largely due to its effect on weave crimp. Results obtained on the 108 all-wool fabrics and on six mohair fabrics produced under identical conditions to the all-wool fabrics indicated that weave crimp rather than fibre properties per se plays the main rôle in determining hygral expansion.