Abstract

This study aims to analyze the 1916 sewing textbook 『Joseon clothing sewing guide (朝鮮服裁縫の栞)』 to explore the early history of Hanbok education and research in Korean schools. It involves reviewing the sewing education content from the time of its publication, detailing bibliographic information, and comparing the table of contents with similar books from that era. The findings reveal that, until the 1910s, schools had a “Sewing” subject specifically for girls, teaching general clothing construction, including cutting and sewing techniques. This book, published on August 15, 1916 as the 11th issue of the Joseon Education Research Society magazine, was prepared by the Gyeongseong Girls' Middle School’s teachers. It reflects collaborative research by Japanese and Korean instructors on Hanbok sewing. It includes on 10 Hanbok items, such as men's and women's jeogori(jacket), men's baji(pants), chima(skirt), duru-magi(coat), dan-sok-got(women’s drawers), women's baji(pants), magoja(over-jacket), pungchabaji, and tosu(arm warmers), with specifications for measurements, cutting, and sewing methods. Compared to earlier works like 『Buinpilji』 (1908), this book omits certain garments like haengjeon but introduces others like children's pungchabaji and magoja. In 『New compilation of sewing reference』 (1925) and 『Complete book of Joseon sewing』(1925), additional garments such as jeoksam and vests were included. Furthermore, 『New compilation of sewing reference』 also incorporated skirt waistbands. In conclusion, although this book is written in Japanese, it was used as a textbook in schools at the time and holds significance as the first modern sewing book. Its content and structure served as a foundation for latter sewing textbooks.

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