Abstract
This study is the first research that examines the fashion manufacturers and merchants of the late 18th century France. Fashion specialists, (known as) Marchande de modes, started to appear in literature in the mid 18thcenturyandthe profession was officially recognized by the guild system in 1776. Rose Bertin was elected as the first representative. At the same time, there were two types of fashion specialists, tailleur and couturi<TEX>${\grave{e}}$</TEX>re. Tailleur had monopolized the production of the bodice and the skirt, which were the most important female dress parts. On the contrary, couturi<TEX>${\grave{e}}$</TEX>re only had the right to make petticoats, but they were not allowed to decorate it. In 1781, the couturi<TEX>${\grave{e}}$</TEX>re obtained the right to make and decorate the other parts of the dress, and this resulted in the two groups fighting over the rights to make dresses. And during this struggle, the Marchand de modes started to appear as a new occupation. Marchande de modes were privileged fashion merchants making or selling trimmings for dress and coiffure, and had authority to make capes and bonnets. Contemporary critics praised their talents for creating innovative and beautiful fashion styles, while some criticized them as women who just made luxury items. These records revealed how marchande de modes were viewed during that time.
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