14-15세기 복식에 나타난 고딕 양식의 미적 표현

Abstract

The spirit and art style of a period are similar in most fields, including architecture, interior decoration, painting, craftsmanship, and costume. During the Gothic period, when Gothic art style was popular, vertical buildings with pointed spires emphasizing vertical lines, interior decorations, and clothing silhouettes prevailed. The purpose of this study was to contemplate relationships of aesthetic characteristics of the Gothic style, those of the 14th-15th centuries costume, and those of the Gothic period expressed in costume. The aesthetic characteristics of the Gothic art style in the 14th-15th centuries included sublime beauty, bodily beauty, and artistic beauty. First, the sublime beauty in Gothic architecture could be found in the emphasis on verticality of sky-piercing spires. In the costume, it could be found in the Houppelande which has voluminous pipe organ creases and high cone-shaped Hennin similar to the spire of Gothic architecture. Second, bodily beauty could be discovered in human figures carved on walls of Gothic architecture and Gothic portraits. The difference between men and women in costume was conspicuous for the first time as female costume highlighted femininity while male costume showed masculinity. Third, the artistic beauty could be seen in sculptures decorated on walls of Gothic architecture and brightly colored stained glasses. In the costume, the artistic beauty appeared in the costume decorated with a heraldry design and parti-colored clothing (displaying different colors by dividing a side of the garment).