13~14세기 단수의(短袖衣)형 의복의 조형적 특징과 교류

Abstract

This study focuses on short-sleeved clothing in Mongolia, China, and Korea, specifically exploring the concept and origin of short-sleeved attire by examining the types and their formative characteristics and further identifying traces of costume exchange manifested through short-sleeved garments. First, Short-sleeved clothing is a generic term for garments with no sleeves, usually worn as overcoats rather than as standalone items. The term has changed depending on the era, country, and formative style, such as the length or collar of the clothing. Additionally, through examination of historical records and relics, it was observed that short-sleeved clothing before the 13th and 14th centuries developed in the form of kaftan-type or Poncho-type clothing. It was understood as a type of clothing worn by nomadic tribes of Central Asia. There are three types of short-sleeved clothing seen throughout the three countries. Dapo is “a short-sleeve or sleeveless overcoat” and is one of the elements of the Mongolian Jisün or Zhisun, a ceremonial attire of the Yuan dynasty. Bi-gyun is presumed to be similar to Dapo: it has a straight collar with an overlapping closure, with pleats on each side and half-length sleeves. Bigap is ‘a long sleeveless overcoat with a straight collar with a center closure’. We can examine traces of cultural exchange that show in the Dapo and the Bigap. First, the Dapo was originally worn in ancient Mongolia for warmth. It was introduced to Ming and Goryeo and has evolved over time, as different materials were used for different climates lifestyles, and local unique clothing culture. Moreover, the formative features such as the straight double collars, the overlapping closure to the deep right side, slits to the side, and side panels are commonly seen in excavated and painted materials across the three countries, indicating an exchange of clothes through cultural contact. Additionally, although data from the Mongolian Empire period is unclear, the Bigap is believed to be a garment that was worn since the Mongol Empire expanded its power and in time influenced Ming and Goryeo. It is also assumed to be the origin of Uuj ’in the 19th century. So far, our efforts have been focused on understanding the exchange and flow of clothing culture through short-sleeved garments of Mongolia, Goryeo, and Ming. Moving forward, detailed discussions on cultural exchange and change in costumes must be conducted by examining not only the data from these countries but also the data from neighboring countries and peoples as well.