Роль украшений и аксессуаров в традиционном женском русском костюме XVI–XVII вв.

Abstract

The paper conducts analysis of decor, accessories and jewelry in the context of traditional Russian costume of the 16th–17th centuries; it consists of an introduction and two parts. In the introduction, the authors note the importance of preserving and structuring information about ancient Russian accessories and costume jewelry for modern creative activity. The paper identifies socio-cultural significance of the ensemble of jewelry and costume in traditional Russian society. It examines the clothing of the South Russian and North Russian women's clothing complex, reflecting the specifics of the regions of Russia-from the Volga region to Siberia. The second part addresses the examples of the use of accessories and jewelry in the structure of traditional folk women's costume, depending on the regions of Russia including the clothes of the Orel, Kursk, Voronezh, Ryazan, Tambov, Tula, and Kaluga provinces belonging to the South Russian complex. The North Russian complexes of women's Russian clothing reflect the specifics of the regions. Headdresses, which are traditionally an integral part of women's folk costume, are represented by kokoshniks, kichki, and crowns. Earrings, rings, and chains are introduced by various schools of master jewelers. The characterization of signs by purpose, materials and method of making jewelry, allowed to clarify the order of classification construction of the scheme of using jewelry in the costume system. The main sections of the paper are illustrated with photos depicting costumes and complementary accessories from various regions of Russia. The authors also display costume ornaments that have long been out of use, but are valuable for research. The paper is of interest to ones studying costume design, accessories, and jewelry. It allowed for concluding about the importance of studying the elements of the costume as artifacts made of natural materials that serve as a precious source of information about the unique Russian decorative and applied art and costume.