위편성물에서 Rib stitch와 Milan stitch의 편성결합이 태에 미치는 영향

Abstract

The purpose of this study is to investigate change of mechanical and physical properties, shape behavior and hand value in weft knit when rib stitch and milan stitch are combined. The knit stitches used in this study are plain stitch, half milan rib stitch, milan rib stitch, <TEX>$2{\times}1$</TEX> rib stitch, <TEX>$2{\times}1$</TEX> half milan rib stitch and <TEX>$2{\times}1$</TEX> milan rib stitch. We analyzed physical and mechanical properties(tensile, bending, shear, compression, surface properties, thickness and weight) of the knit stitches and calculated their primary hand value and total hand value through translational formulas using the KES(Kawabata Evaluation System). The results are as follows; In evaluation of mechanical properties and hand values of knit stitches, plain stitch had the highest flexibility and the lowest T.H.V. as women's winter knit wear. Since <TEX>$2{\times}1$</TEX> rib stitch had too high elongation in one direction, although it had the highest T.H.V, it needs to be careful when plain stitch and <TEX>$2{\times}1$</TEX> rib stitch are applied for women's winter knit wear. Since Milan rib stitch and <TEX>$2{\times}1$</TEX> milan rib stitch had high T.H.V. similarly, it is considered that they are suitable for women's winter knit wear. Specially, when Milan stitch is combined with <TEX>$2{\times}1$</TEX> rib stitch, its shape stability and fullness are contained and flexibility is added on it. Therefore, <TEX>$2{\times}1$</TEX> milan rib stitch can be also applied for women's winter knit wear.