승무복식 조형성의 변화 과정과 특징 : 중요무형문화재 27호 승무 이매방류 중심으로

Abstract

The development of civilization, which was caused by advanced science and technology causes the development and change of culture along the current trends. Korean traditional culture, which can be regarded as rational basis, should be maintained and succeeded. However, traditional culture inevitably keeps changing causing a dispute over its “legitimacy” that it should be unchanging and “modernity” that it should go along the trends. Looking at how Lee Mae-Bang’s Seung-mu costume changed and developed over time, theatrization can be applied as an exemplary case showing the mutual, eclectic answer to this issue. Lee Mae-Bang’s Seung-mu costumes have some characteristics; its change of form became simplified and refined as time passes. Moreover, Lee Mae-Bang’s Jang-sam has several stages of formational changes: the first stage is the Duru-magi way cutting; the second stage is extended diagonal-line cutting; and the third stage is the addition of width extension, which makes the costume wide enough to cover up the body during the Yum-bul-gwa-jang dance. Furthermore, the black-colored Jang-sam became impressive from gold-embroidered decoration and has three color arrangements which are relevant to Korean’s favorable number “3”. The color composition varied depending on the color of Jang-sam, which is based on the three color arrangement, The white Jang-sam went along with jade green jeo-gori (jacket) and ba-ji (pants) with white go-kkal (cone-hat) and hong-dde (red-colored band), whereas the black Jang-sam went along with white or dark jade green jeo-gori and ba-ji, hong-dde. This color arrangement created an image to show aesthetic philosophy, combining the chum (Korean dance) and costume into one.BR Dance is an expression of human emotion through movement and facial expression. it is typically visualized ass an image, and effectively designing an image that depicts human emotion would create a stage costume. Thus, dance and costume should be coincided as an art. Stage costume should be created with design, material, and color that match the content and form. At the same time, it should be expressed and created along with modern trends, encompassing one’s thought and aesthetic philosophy.