Abstract

To determine the optimum activation conditions for one- and two-bath pretreatments of hemp fabric with <TEX>${\alpha}$</TEX>-amylase and pectinase, the weight loss was measured after treatments at different pH, temperature, soak time, and pectinase concentration. In addition, the surfaces of the enzyme- and alkali-pretreated hemp fabrics were studied, and the pectin content, tensile strength, moisture absorption rate, and whiteness index were analyzed and compared. In the two-bath pretreatment, the optimum pectinase activation conditions after desizing using <TEX>${\alpha}$</TEX>-amylase were pH 9, <TEX>$50^{\circ}C$</TEX>, 120 min soak time, and a pectinase concentration of 30%. In the one-bath pretreatment with a 1% <TEX>${\alpha}$</TEX>-amylase addition and a pectinase concentration of 30%, the optimum conditions were pH 8, <TEX>$50^{\circ}C$</TEX>, and 80 min. The weight loss of the one-bath enzyme-pretreated hemp fabric was similar to that of the alkali-pretreated fabric, and smaller than that of the two-bath enzyme-pretreated fabric. The pectin content of the one-bath enzyme-pretreated hemp fabric was similar to that of the alkali-pretreated fabric, and larger than that of the two-bath enzyme-pretreated fabric. The surface of the alkali-pretreated hemp fabric was clean yet damaged, whereas the surfaces of the one- and two-bath pretreated hemp fabric were clean and smooth without damage. The tensile strength of the one- and two-bath enzyme pretreated hemp fabric was higher than that of the alkali-pretreated fabric. The absorption rate in the hemp fabric significantly increased following both the alkali-pretreatment and the one- and two-bath pretreatments.

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