신체크기에 따른 토르소원형의 부위별 선호여유량 분석

Abstract

This study researches the preferred ease of torso sloper according to body sizes and drop. For this, the eases of main body parts such as chest circumference, waist circumference, hip circumference, biacromion length, and waist back length were analysed; in addition, the drop differences of body and pattern were explored to find out characteristics of silhouette changes. The subjects were 55 women in their early 20s (aged from 20 to 24) and individual torso block made with muslin was corrected 1-3 times by a personal fitting. There were 3 meaningful results. First, the preferred ease were individually various; however, the eases of all torso blocks should be same at the pattern making step. Second, the eases were also significantly different among body size groups and the bigger group preferred less ease at the biacromion length, waist back length, armhole-depth, chest circumference, and waist circumference. Third, the eases of chest circumference and hip circumference were significantly changed among drop groups. To change their body drop, H-shape drop adopted less ease at chest circumference and more ease at hip circumference; however, A-shape drop adopted more ease at chest circumference and less ease at hip circumference.