춘추용 생활한복 소재의 태에 관한 연구

Abstract

The purpose of this study is to examine the hand of spring/fall fabrics for `Saenghwal Hanbok` on subjective hand, objective hand and the preference. In this study, 28 varieties of spring/fall fabrics such as cotton fabrics, synthetic fabrics, blended fabrics and a silk fabric for `Saenghwal Hanbok` are used. To evaluate the subjective hand of fabrics, the holistic touch and preferences, 33 seven ranks` segmentic differential scale questions are developed with adjective pairs and are gathered by surveying experts on clothes. The mechanical properties, HV and THV of them are measured and calculated by KES-FB system. Through subjective hand, items could be classified into six hand expressions: `bulky/extensibility`, `stiffness`, `feeling of weight`, `surface property`, `drapability` and `moisture property`. Through mechanical properties, the results indicated that the character of cotton fabrics are slight flexible, tough, rough, uneven, a bit heavy, thick and low resilience on tensile and compression, and then those of synthetic fabrics, blended fabrics and a silk fabric are thin and light, smooth, flat and bulkless. In correlation on subjective evaluations and the preference for `Saenghwal Hanbok`, cotton fabrics mainly depend on `surface property` and `moisture property` and then synthetic fabrics, blended fabrics and a silk depend on `bulky/extensibility` and `surface property` In correlation on objective hand and the preference for `Saenghwal Hanbok`. people aren`t satisfied with low resilience. high stiffness and low drape.