인도산 꼭두서니, 매리골드, 석류염재를 이용한 직물의 염색

Abstract

Abstract Dyeability of Indian natural dyestuffs to fabrics was investigated. Indian dyestuffs are more inexpensivethan domestic dyestuffs purchased at oriental medicine stores. We studied the dyeability of madder, mari-gold, and pomegranate imported from India on cotton, silk, and wool fabrics. Dyebaths of a combinationratio of 80:20, 60:40, 50:50, 40:60 and 20:80 of madder and marigold, fabrics with orange colors weredyed. To evaluate the dyeability of dyed fabrics, K/S values, Munsell color values and CIE L, a, b, ∆Ewere measured. The dyeability of fabrics dyed in dyebaths of pH 4 and pH 7 were higher than pH 10. Thedyeability in pH 4 was better than pH 7. Silk fabrics dyed with madder and marigold showed good dyeabi-lity and wool fabrics showed good affinity in madder dyebath and fair affinity in marigold dyebath. Cottonfabrics showed fair affinity in a marigold dyebath of pH 4 and pH 7. Cotton fabrics dyed with a 60:40 ratioof madder and marigold showed 4.76YR of Munsell color value. Silk Fabrics dyed with a 40:60 ratio sho-wed 4.76YR and wool fabrics dyed with 20:80 ratio showed 5.57RY. The ratios produced the closest colorsto 5.0YR of orange. This result indicated that marigold had a more powerful effect on cotton fabrics whilemadder was stronger on wool fabrics. Fading grades of washing colorfastness of wool and silk fabrics dyedin mixed dyebaths were higher than 3.5-4.0 and higher than homogeneous dyebaths. Staining grades of wa-shing colorfastness of all dyed fabrics were between grades 3.5-5.0. Colorfastness to dry-cleaning washigh as grades 4.0-5.0 in all of dyed fabrics. Colorfastness to light of dyed fabrics showed a fair grade of3.5-5.0; in addition, wool fabrics showed lower grades than silk and cotton fabrics.Key words: Indian natural dyes, Madder, marigold, Pomegranate, Mixed dyebath; 인도천연염료, 꼭두서니, 매리골드, 석류, 혼합염액