Abstract
The extractive power of synthetic esters of fatty acids, widely used as emollients in cosmetics, has been studied. Three popular emollients - isopropyl myristate (IPM), capryl-caprinic triglycerides (CCT) and soybean oil (SO) - were used to isolate biologically active substances from nettle leaves ( Folia urtica ). Qualitative compositions of lipophilic active substances in all extracts have proved to be identical, including chlorophyll derivatives, carotenoids, and some unidentified substances. The extractive power with respect to chlorophyll derivatives increases in the following order: SO < CCT < IPM. The process of two-phase extraction of nettle leaves using synthetic emollients as the nonpolar phase has been studied. The nature of the polar phase has been found to strongly influence the amount of chlorophyll derivatives extracted from the plant material in all cases. The maximum concentration of chlorophyll derivatives in the nonpolar phase was obtained using a water - ethanol mixture as the polar phase. It is established that two-phase extraction expands the qualitative composition of extracts. The best results in case of the IPM - 60 % ethanol two-phase extractant system were obtained using preliminary maceration of raw plant material with the nonpolar (IPM) phase. In case of the soybean oil - 60 % ethanol system, the best results were obtained upon maceration with the polar (aqueous ethanol) phase.
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