Розроблення рецептури антивікового крему для обличчя з β-глюканом

Abstract

The article presents the results of the study of the cosmetic cream with anti-age direction with β-glucan. Cosmetics aimed at combating wrinkles, pigmentation and other skin problems is includedinto the anti-age segment. β-glucan affects the biosyn¬thesis of collagen and elastin, acts as a powerful moisturizer, and also regulates the structural and mechanical characteristics of the cosmetic system, affects thickening, stabilization, and jelly formation. β-glucan is not released for sale by direct passage thro¬ugh the cells of the epidermis and dermis, but adds to the epidermal barrier through the intercellular matrix. It indirectly promotes the stimulation of fibroblasts, which results in the accumulation of collagen in the dermis, increased skin elasticity, and reduced wrinkles. In addition, β-glucan forms a thin protective layer, which increases the hydration of the epidermis and prevents moisture loss. This ingredient is highly effective and inno¬vative as an anti-aging bioactive component of natural origin. The aim of the work was to develop a formulation of an anti-aging face cream of the "oil/water" type with β-glucan and to establish its optimal amount. The paper describes the main formulation components of an anti-aging face cream with β-glucan of the "oil/water" type. The application of each component of the formulation is substantiated. The dry powdered extract of β-glucan obtained from oat grains was used in the work. To select the emulsifier, the hydrophilic-lipophilic balance of the fat phase was calculated. The formulation of an anti-aging cream with β-glucan of the "oil/water" type was developed. It was found that the best in terms of organoleptic and physicochemical parameters is a sample of anti-aging cream with β-glucan content of 3.0%. The cream obtained according to the developed formulation is ho¬mogeneous, colloidal and thermostable, has a characteristic ap¬pearance, is well applied to the skin and meets all the require¬ments of DSTU 4765-2007 "Cosmetic creams". The resulting anti-aging cream is suitable for all skin types, it is recommended for daily use, it perfectly moisturizes and nourishes the skin, maintains hydrolipidic balance, protects skin against dryness and peeling, stimulates cell regeneration and provides a long-lasting rejuvenating effect. The use of β-glucan in the formulation of face cream allows to expand the range of anti-age cosmetic products.