Abstract

Abstract In this research, the dyeing properties of Lycopus lucidus Turcz on cotton and silk fabrics were evalu-ated to establish a scientific database of natural dyes. The optimum dyeing conditions were identified withK/S values depending on the dyeing concentration, temperature, time, and pH. For the optimum con-ditions, the color changes for different synthetic mordants were observed as L, a*, b* and H, V, C. Thecolor fastness after dyeing and mordanting was also examined. Additionally, the antibiosis of Lycopuslucidus Turcz was examined. The results were as follows: For the cotton, the optimized dyeing conditionswere 300% (o.w.f.), 50 o C, 40 min., and pH 5. For the silk fabric, the conditions were 450% (o.w.f.), 70 o C,60 min., and pH 4. The K/S value of dyed cotton improved about 1.03-2.78 folds after mordanting. Thefabric color was yellow in the absence of mordanting, while it was reddish yellow after post-mordantingwith FFC. Although the color changed with the mordanting method and mordant, the overall hue wasyellow. Thus, Lycopus lucidus Turcz appears to have the potential for use as a natural dyeing material fora yellow hue. The K/S value of the dyed silk fabric improved about 1.05-1.40 folds after mordanting. Thefabric showed a reddish yellow color when pre-mordanted with Al and Cu. The washing and dry-cleaningfastness of the cotton and silk fabrics were at the 4-5 level. The light fastness of the cotton improved aftermordanting; however, pre-mordanting was more effective than post-mordanting or the absence of mor-danting. The dyed cotton, silk fabrics showed excellent antibiosis.Key words: Lycopus lucidus Turcz, Dyeability, Antimicrobial activity, Mordant, Color fastness; 택란, 염색성, 항균성, 매염, 염색견뢰도

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