동해 폭풍파랑의 통계적 특성과 파랑 후측모의 실험에 관한 연구

Abstract

In the present study, the statistical analysis on the storm waves in the East Sea have been carried out, and the several storm waves were reproduced by the modified WAM as a first step for the accurate and prompt forecasting and warning against the swell waves in East Sea. According to the present study, the occurrences of the storm waves from the North were the most probable, while the waves from the Northeast were most frequently observed. It was found that the significant wave heights of storm waves from the North and Northern northeast were larger than those of storm waves from the Northeast. But due to long fetch distance, the significant wave periods of storm waves from the Northesast were longer than those of North and Northern northeast. In addition to the wave analysis, the numerical experiments for the storm waves in East Sea were carried out using the modified WAM, and three periods of storm waves in 2013 were calculated. The numerical results were well agreed with wave measurements. However the numerical simulation results in shallow water region showed lower accuracies compared to deep water, which might be due to lower resolution of wind field and bottom topography caused by large grid size, 5 minute, adopted in the present study. Overall computational efficiency of the modified WAM found to be excellent compared to original WAM. It is because the modified WAM adopted the implicit scheme, thereby the present model performed 10 time faster than original WAM in computation time.