Abstract

The purpose of this study is to analyze the collar types of women"s jeogori kinds excavated in the early Joseon dynasty(15∼16C before the Imjin War). Excavate reports and literature data lead to the separation of collar types of women"s jeogori kinds among twenty excavate place. The analysis of results reveals the collar change process as jeocksamㆍhansam 37, jeogori 55, jangjeogori·dang-ui 74. The results of the study showed ten collar types among a total of 166 types. Collar separated jeocksam·hansam 8 types, jeogori 9 types, jangjeogori·dang-ui 3 types. The opinion of two about Dang-ui started an open sideline of jangjeogori both that made high-quality cloth. The Joseon women"s jeogori collar is separated into five kinds and ten collar types among balance mockpan collar (collar type1 and collar type2), unbalance in-hanged mockpan collar (collar type3 and collar type4), ing mockpan collar (collar type5, collar type6, and collar type7), unbalance out-hanged mockpan collar (collar type8 and collar type9), and kal collar (collar type10). Women"s jeogori collar showed the most balance mockpan collar of jeocksam·hansam, the most ing mockpan collar of jeogori, the most unbalance out-hanged mockpan collar of jangjeogori. Collar types showed collar type 8 as the most widely used. And kal collar showed the only jeogori. Unique of jeogori showed comprise ing mockpan collar and no comprise ing mockpan collar. Collar type 2 of balance mockpan collar appeared end-15C, collar type 5 and 6 of ing mockpan collar appeared early-16C, collar type 7 of ing mockpan collar, and collar type 8 of unbalance out-hanged mockpan collar appeared mid-16C, collar type 9 of unbalance out-hanged mockpan collar, and collar type 10 of kal collar appeared end-16C. This study analyzed both out the collar and in collar moving, subdivision of collar kinds, and types. Looking forward to modern-hanbok design based on the result of this study.

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