조선후기 궁중 선유락 복식 연구

Abstract

This study examines the type, change, and characteristics of Seonyurak (船遊樂)
 dancers' clothing, based on 12 kinds of uigwe (royal protocols) that recorded
 Seonyurak performances. Seonyurak, which used to be handed down as gyobang
 jeongjae (courtesan's dance) in local areas, was introduced into the court due to
 the seonsanggi system after Injo’s Rebellion (仁祖反正). As a local performance
 presented to government officials, who were going abroad as envoys, became
 performed in the royal court, the venue, name, and performance content and
 method of Seonyurak were changed.
 The first performance of Seonyurak was recorded in Wonhaeng eulmyo jeongri
 uigwe (園幸乙卯整理儀軌) in 1795, and it was adopted as an official court dance in
 Gichuk jinchan uigwe (己丑進饌儀軌) in 1829. The clothing of jipsa, assistants, has
 been recorded since Gichuk jinchan uigwe (1829) while that of donggi, young
 female dancers, has been recorded since Musin jinchan uigwe (戊申進饌儀軌, 1849).
 Therefore, the clothing of Seonyurak performers was settled in 1849, and it was
 passed down until 1902, which was the period of the Empire of Korea.
 It is possible that Seonyurak performed in 1795 was in a similar form to
 Baettaragi (排打羅其), another courtesan's dance performed in the northwestern
 region, since its performance venue was in Hwaseong, not the palace. Among them,
 it can be seen that donggi in chaeseon, a boat located in the center of Seonyurak
 performance, served as sogyo (a position of military officer) of Baettaragi, which
 was confirmed by Bongsudang jinchando (奉壽堂進饌圖). However, donggi performed in
 Baettaragi wore red cheollik, the uniform of danghagwan (officials of the lower
 terrace), while those in Seonyurak wore navy cheollik, the uniform of
 dangsanggwan (officials of the upper terrace). Later, since Gichuk jinchan uigue (1829), donggi playing the role of sogyo was
 changed into jipno, and the role of donggi was played by jipsa. The clothing of
 Seonyurak jipsa was a military uniform of danghagwan, which was worn by donggi
 in Bongsudang jinchando (1795) and lasted in the last banquet in 1902. Seonyurak
 jipsa had worn a military uniform as a support garment for cheollik since Imjin
 jinchan (1889) until Imin jinyeon (1902). Before that, it is presumed that they wore a
 green daechangui as a support garment for cheollik.
 As for the clothing of Seonyurak jipno, donggi wore a red danui (丹衣), the uniform
 of the Yeonhwadae dance, in Gichuk jinchan uigwe (1829), and later on they wore
 green dangui (唐衣) since Musin jinchan uigwe (1848) until the last banquet of the
 Empire of Korea. It is confirmed that they wore a red skirt and green dangui in Imin
 jinyeondo (1902).
 Donggi wore a red skirt and a yellow top in Musin jinchando (戊申進饌圖), Jeongjae
 jinchando (丁亥進饌圖), and Sinchuk jinchando (辛丑進饌圖) whereas they wore a green
 dangui only in Imin jinyeondo (壬寅進宴圖). Stand-by dancers of Seonyurak wore the
 basic clothing of court dance performed by yeoryeong (female entertainers).