Исследование и реставрация женской рубахи XIX в. из Тверской губернии

Abstract

Historical textiles of folk costume is a cultural heritage of Russia. Each area, each nationality has its own features of cut and decorative decorations in the form of embroidery. Embroidery is one of the folklore directions of folk art that was expressively manifested in a historical peasant costume. This paper examined a woman's shirt from the Tver province, sewn in the 19th century. Rubakha is essential to peasant clothes — it plays the role of both everyday work clothes and an element of a festive costume. A special place is occupied by embroidery, which is a kind of symbolic, sacred language, not only protecting the wearer of clothing from evil forces, but transmitting information from the deep antiquity and indicating the geography of origin. It seems noteworthy that embroidery is a kind of chronicle of generations, a cipher that is in fact a message for the future. There are obvious signs, such as the sun, the tree of life, and there are those that must be interpreted and understood in terms of the era when these symbols were embroidered. During the restoration of the studied shirt, the task was not only to restore the appearance with minimal interference with the material, but also to investigate the origin of the embroidery patterns. A comparative study of the features of embroidery of various districts and shirts` cuts made it possible to attribute the object under study and discover interesting facts from the life of the area under study. Restoration work on this shirt is also aimed at removing spots of various origin (rust, sweat, sharpening), to eliminate breaks and deformation.