｢준천계첩｣에 나타난 영조대 행사복식 연구

Abstract

This study aimed to reenact the costumes of each character in "Juncheongyechup" to understand the lives of people from the historic Seoul Cheonggyecheon Stream. References include 『Youngjo Jeongsunwanghu Garyedogamuigwe(英祖貞純王后嘉禮都監儀軌)』, which recorded the royal wedding of the King Youngjo, performed in 1759, 『Gukjosogoryeui(國朝續五禮儀)』 of 1744, and 『Chungwantonggo(春官通考)』 of 1788. In order to examine the costumes of each character, they were compared with the paintings and excavations, and reviewed precedent studies. The results of the review of the characters" costumes are as follows. The king usually wore an official wear except when he went to Mohwagwan with a military outfit, yungbok. Civil officers wore greenish black dallyeongs, which were sangboks, official outfits, with hyungbaes and belts as suitable for their dignity. They also wore siboks, everyday official clothing in which colors were red and green for dangsanggwans and danghagwans, respectively. When civil officers wore sangboks and siboks, the military officers wore military garments: yungboks and gunboks. A yungbok for a dangsanggwan was composed of a blue cheollik, a purple hat, and a strap, and a yungbok for danghagwan was composed of a bluish black cheollik, a black hat, and a strap. When the king wore a yungbok, a general of training, hullyeondaejang, wore a gunbok. That was clearly distinguished from the civil officers. Military officials’ gunboks were comparable to civil officials’ sangboks and siboks. A gunbok consisted of a jeollip, a hyeopsu, a jeonbok or a kwaeja, a jeondae, and a suhwaja. From the junggun to the cadremen, the military units were set the colors of their belts and jeonbok according to their directions. The analysis for servants’ in government offices costumes in the literature is in sufficient. It is hoped that detailed consideration will be possible along with the further excavation of data.