에도시대 여자 머리장신구 특성에 관한 연구

Abstract

This study analyzed the sociocultural meaning and characteristics of various women’s hair accessories decorated in hair bun(髷) of the Edo period according to the classification of types. The development of women’s hair accessories in the Edo period was related to the development of Kabuki fashion, brothel, and the development of the publishing industry due to the expansion of educated people and the pursuit of pleasure according to social and cultural material abundance. Also, it was accelerated through the Sankin-kōtai(参勤交代制). Hair accessories in the Edo period were divided into four types, headband ornaments, combs and hairpins, symbol ornaments, and auxiliary ornaments. In addition, the characteristics of four types were analyzed. The detailed research results are as follows. First, hair bun accessories were broadly classified into Motoyui(元結) and headdress cloth. In the early Edo period, Motoyui, a paper material, was used for economy and practicality for tieing hair buns. Later, gold and silver foil papers were used, and Emotoyui(絵元結) was developed, and colorful headdress fabrics made of crape(縮緬) were used. Second, as the combs and hairpins became diversified and materials became luxurious, the form became more prominent, and the style became splendid. Kushi(櫛) developed into a thick, large comb called Okushi. There is a primary type of hairpin, Kogai, and Kanzashi includes Hanakushi and Bira-bira kanzashi. Third, it was considered that the symbolic ornaments revealed the status of the Edo period. Hirabitai(平額) worn by women in the royal family and royal family is typical, and there were Ichidome(位置止) and Kanokodome(鹿の子止), which were worn by Geisha and became popular. Fourth, as an auxiliary ornament, Kamoji(髢) means a wig, and it was seen that it plays a decorative role to enlarge and enhance the image.