Abstract

This study aims to support design inspired by Asian traditional costumes and broaden the scope of design thinking in the future through examination of the method of expression and characteristics of Chinese robe styles appearing in the Vogue runway collections. To the this, the study reviews how the Chinese traditional robe design has changed through history. First, this study found that the length, style of fastening, and collar and sleeve style have differed and transformed from the period of Pre-Qin to the Republic of China. Colors used for robes included those based on the thoughts of the five elements and various traditional Chinese patterns. Second, the study analyzed Chinese robe styles on the Vogue runway over the last five years. Styles of robe from all the periods of history analyzed in part one appeared in the collections, but the method of expression related to qipao was relatively dominant. In terms of color, combinations were based on trends relating to designers or characteristics of brands rather than reproduction of original colors or combinations of colors in traditional, historical Chinese robes. Patterns used were either animals such as dragons or phoenix or traditional geometric designs. A comprehensive review of the sample showed, among others, characteristics such as the convergence of various robe shapes and western fashion materials according to historic changes, the application of robes to fashion style, design inspired by the decorative expression of robe, and a combination of qipao-shaped futuristic fashion trend.

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