세계주의 모더니즘을 적용한 현대 패션디자인 연구 I : 바우하우스의 기초교육과정, 직물공방, 건축공방을 중심으로

Abstract

The purpose of this study is to identify the characteristics of cosmopolitan modernism found in contemporary fashion design by analyzing how modernist and Bauhaus principles have been applied to fashion. The research methods used for this study are a literary review and content analysis. The results suggest that cosmopolitan modernism is a narrow interpretation of modernism along with ideational modernism, abstract modernism, functional modernism, pre-conscious modernism, symbolic modernism and idealistic modernism. It is a complex design style that captures reason and emotion in harmony by symbolizing the individual’s ideas through an inquiry of forms, colors, and material attributes. The basic design style of cosmopolitan modernism is based on Bauhaus’s preliminary course, a weaving workshop, and an architecture workshop. It has the following aesthetic characteristics: conceptual universality, perpetual simplicity, functional artistry, visual relativity, and integrative autonomy. After the middle of the 20th century fashion design has the following attributes of cosmopolitan modernism: ‘geometrical module’, ‘subversion and reconstruction of modernistic color’, and ‘conceptual material’—by applying the study of the forms, colors, and materials of basic design style. The design characteristics of cosmopolitan modernism identified through analyzing the work of representative designers—Paco Rabanne, Sonia Rykiel, Issey Miyake, Missoni, Emilio Pucci, and Pierre Cardin—are the following: (1) planar playfulness created by the planar composition of different color and material modules, (2) relative dynamics established through overlay and penetration of planar and three-dimensional modules, (3) convergent artistry realized by the harmony of planar and three-dimensional materials, (4) three-dimensional visual depth built by the repetition of shapes and color contrasts, and (5) conceptual functionality realized by the functional application of geometric modules. In conclusion, cosmopolitan modernism offers a framework for a design practice that reflects the nature and emotions of the individual.