금관가야의 복식 연구 : 상의(上衣) 길이를 중심으로

Abstract

The purpose of this study is to examine the length of Geumgwan Gaya"s upper garments. Samgukji (三國志) mentions that people in Geumgwan Gaya wore a po (袍;robe) in the third century. A po is a long-length, Chinese style article of clothing that reaches one"s feet. It resulted from the iron trade between Nakrang and Geumgwan Gaya. From Nakrang"s visual materials, it is presumed that, if the people of Geumgwan Gaya wore Nakrang"s clothing and hats (衣幘), po as well as yu (襦;hip-length jacket) and jangyu (長襦;calf-length long jacket) were also worn. The upper garments of the fourth and fifth centuries were found in the visual materials of Geumgwan Gaya and neighboring countries. Clay figures from Geumgwan Gaya include yu and po. Yet, in three kingdoms (Goguryeo, Baekje, and Silla), men solely wore yu, while women wore jangyu as well. According to archeological specimens such as horse harnesses, Geumgwan Gaya is similar in form to Three Yans (前燕, 後燕, 北燕) and Buyeo. Therefore, it is also necessary to consider the historical clothing materials of these regions. We can see yu, jangyu and po from Three Yans" visual materials and po from Buyeo"s historical literature records. The three kingdoms, Three Yans and Buyeo are northern regions where people originally wore yu and pants that were convenient for horse riding. In the case of Three Yans and Buyeo, the Chinese influence also made them wear long, leisurely clothes, which is very similar to the style in Geumgwan Gaya. However, clothing of Geumgwan Gaya is more closely related to Buyeo and Three Yans than that of the three kingdoms because Geumgwan Gaya wore all three lengths of clothing; yu, jangyu and po.