Abstract

The purpose of this study was to determine color sensibility factors of naturally dyed silk fabrics in blue and green and to identify the relationship between objective colorimetric properties and subjective color sensibility. A silk fabric was directly colored with natural dye powder via both single and sequential dyeing in order to impart various bluish or greenish hues to it. The dyed fabric samples were measured in terms of Munsell notation including H, V, and C; CIE colorimetric properties such as <TEX>$L^*$</TEX>, <TEX>$a^*$</TEX>, <TEX>$b^*$</TEX>, and <TEX>$C^*$</TEX>; and PCCS tones. Fashion specialists including designers, researchers, and graduate students were asked to evaluate the dyed silk fabrics for subjective color sensibility terms using semantic differential scales. As a result, four color sensibility factors were obtained: Active, Delicate, Comfort/Gentle, and Urban. Color lightness such as CIE <TEX>$L^*$</TEX> and Munsell V had the most influence on the factor Delicate, whereas color saturation including CIE <TEX>$C^*$</TEX> and Munsell C had the most influence on the factor Active. The tones seemed to affect the factor Delicate more than any other objective color variables and in such detail that tones such as lt and ltg reinforced the feeling of the factor; the factors Comfort/Gentle and Urban were closely affected by greenish and bluish shades, respectively. The relations were also compared with the results of previous studies investigating other shades such as yellow and red. Finally, quantified prediction models by multiple regression were established for each color sensibility factor in order to help natural dyeing industries design highly emotional colors of naturally dyed silk fabrics in blue and green.

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