하위문화적 브리콜라주로서 패션 스타일의 특성과 의미 규명 : 2014 F/W~2019 S/S 중심으로

Abstract

Since 2014, a new aesthetic fashion style has emerged that borrows from subculture groups that do not traditionally relate to the fashion trend system. The abnormal and anti-aesthetic fashion style -which is distinguished from the perfect beauty that traditional fashion tends to pursue- appears in a similar pattern as the style of a unique and heterogeneous subculture that was distinguished from the mainstream culture of the 1960s. Socio-culturalists, who have performed previous research on subculture, explained such expression of subculture fashion using bricolage, which transforms the meaning of new symbols into their own symbols through the non-pessimistic arrangement of everyday objects. Therefore, the purpose of this study is to identify the characteristics and meanings of anti-aesthetic fashion styles appearing after 2014 through the subculture bricolage form. This research looks at the concepts of subculture and bricolage through literature researches. It studies the meaning of style and considers the bricolage of Dick Hebdige, who is a social and cultural scholar, through stylistic examples of subculture. The research considers characteristics of a total of six fashion styles, including Normcore, Gorpcore, Nerd Style, Daddy Style, Retro Style, and Street Style, that have appeared since 2014. The research analyzes the meaning of style as it appears in modern fashion and identifies it via the bricolage form. It creates a new meaning in which universality is destroyed by reversal of the mainstream which means ugly is attractive and new. This is achieved by breaking the ideal golden ratio of the type of beauty that is sought in traditional fashion and by relocating and recontextualising via the bricolage of absurdity, a reversal of minority and reckless editing that is intended in ordinary and universal styles found in everyday life.