전통 자색 재현을 위한 자초 염색 방법 연구

Abstract

Based on the records of ancient documents, this study attempted to examine the traditional redroot gromwell purple dyeing method and to ascertain the direction for traditional purple reproduction through experimental research. In the experiment, Korean (Jecheon) and Chinese dried redroot gromwell were used as the dyeing material, while scoured silk was used for sampling. For pigment extraction, two types of solvents were used: traditional water (soft water) and modern ethanol. To extract the pigment using water, two methods were applied: one is soaking and leaving the redroot gromwell in water and the other is kneading it in water after crushing. The dyeing temperature was maintained at a level of 30 to 40°C, and boiling water at 100°C was used as Baekbitang (a traditional term, pure boiling water). As a mordant, alum and potassium carbonate were used to replace the lye of Asian sweetleaf in the traditional method. To analyze the results of the dyeing the CIE-Lab values and HV/C of the Munsell color system were used. As a result of analysis, it was found that physical force applied by kneading the ground redroot gromwell could extract pigments from the water. If focusing on the results of the above method with the Korean material, there were R, RP, and P depending on the dyeing conditions. Therefore, dyeing conditions such as alum or Baekbitang may be selected according to the color to be embodied in the material. When compared to the results of the ethanol method of pigment extraction, the characteristics of the colors such as saturation and tone were different. Therefore, to reproduce traditional purple, it is not desirable to extract pigments using organic solvents such as modern ethanol, and it is judged that we should choose the method of soaking, crushing, and kneading the redroot gromwell in water.