중국 광시(廣西) 지역의 장금(壯錦) 제직 기술

Abstract

Among Chinese minorities, Zhuangzu(壯族) is the only minority who has weaved one of the four great silks of China, Zhuangjin(壯錦). Zhuangjin has a long history and an important position among Chinese traditional textile crafts. Several looms have been used to weave Zhuangjin, including Zhurongji(竹笼机), which has been used in Nanning(南寧), Xincheng(忻成), and Binyang(宾阳). Each province has a characteristic type of loom, such as Rongzhou(笼州) loom and Jingxi(靖西) loom. All of the looms have a simple weaving structure, but each forms patterns in a different way. For example, the Zhurong(竹笼) of Zhurongji and the Hwabon on a Tangrou of Rongzhou loom move in a circle to make patterns, unlike other pattern-weaving looms. Although the details of structure and tools are similar, each province has unique local features. Zhuangjin has composed many basic geometric patterns that represent nature and elements of foreign culture including images like flower, ear, phoenix, dragon, lion, butterfly, bird, and treasure. Each pattern has been used to symbolize blessings like fecundity, luck, longevity, and good harvest. As such, Zhuangjin is an original Zhaungzu culture that has been condensed into a practical, artistic, decorative pursuit. Because the Zhuangjin loom of Zhuangzu has a unique structure that cannot be found elsewhere, it is especially significant in the history of loom development.