크리에이티브 디렉터의 변화에 따른 구찌 디자인의 조형성과 미적 특성

Abstract

This study aimed to examine the formativeness and aesthetic characteristics of the Gucci Collections by the three creative directors. A literature review on brand history and design philosophy of the creative directors and a comparative analysis on formativeness on Gucci collection from 1995FW to 2019FW were done. Based thereon, the present study analyzed aesthetic characteristics such as simplicity, sensuality, historical exoticism, and naturalness. Simplicity is limited to the collections by Ford, and sensuality is the only characteristic applied into all designers. Simplicity by Ford was shown in the simple forms, achromatic colors, and restrained patterns and decorations. Ford expressed erotic sensuality, Giannini emphasized restrained sensuality, and Michele represents sensuality mixing characteristics of both sexes. Exoticism and naturalness are expressed in collections by Giannini and Michele. Historical exoticism was expressed via interest in ethnology by borrowing patterns and embellishments of traditional ethnic costume in the collections by Giannini and by mixing a variety of periods and cultures in the collections by Michele. Naturalness was shown by Giannini as natural patterns by reinterpreting floras in various manners related to flora, a symbolic icon of Gucci. In addition, Michele, who was influenced by the hippie style, expressed the naturalness realized with patterns indicating eco-friendly motives and handcrafted embroidery. Findings of this study reveal that the three creative directors developed Gucci successfully by tuning their design identity to periodic demands based on the tradition of the brand while preserving the heritage of Gucci even during socio-cultural and administrative transitions.