이단하(李端夏) 부인 원삼(圓衫)의 직물 문양에 관한 연구

Abstract

This study examined the wonsam textile patterns worn by the wife of Yi Danha (pen name: Oeje), a civil official in the 17th century. The researcher inspected the actual relic in person and confirmed that the base pattern of the textile used on the wonsam and the jig-geum(silk with supplementary gold) tongsu-sueran pattern were arranged in a grid comprising four rows and eight columns. It consisted of 19 types of patterns, including subok characters, peaches, pomegranates, flowers, and treasure. In addition, detailed inspection showed that six kinds of treasure emblems were used on the jig-geum textile displayed on the multicolored stripes. The most important feature of this wonsam is the placement of the patterns, which shows the immense amount of effort of the maker, as the full pattern layout can be seen completely from the front, back, and the sides despite such detailed and complex imagery. However, faults can also be observed in the form of unclear designs, unevenly sized patterns depending on the part, and the use of unusual cutting methods. Such limitations indicate that the weaving technique of the time was not advanced enough to be able to fully realize the painstakingly detailed construction and arrangement of patterns when Yi Danha’s wonsam was being made.