고려 충선왕 재위기 숙비(淑妃)와 순비(順妃)의 고고(Boghtaq) 및 연회복식 특성 연구

Abstract

This study aims to analyze the characteristics and shapes of Gugu(Boghtaq) and banquet costumes, which were used as a politically competitive tool by the Sukbi(淑妃) and Sunbi(順妃). It is estimated that Gugu, which was introduced to Goryeo, had a capital shape with a back flap and were made with simple material due to Emperor Injong’s trend against luxury. Two queens competed with five costumes during a banquet of 1311 to commemorate the introduction of the Gugu, and those costumes can be divided into the following categories. The first takes the shape of Echner Deel from the 13th-14th century, and is made with Goryeo fabrics. The second takes the shape of Noeui for high-ranking women, and was designed using a modified layout of the original pattern. The third is the formal wear form of Goryeo. It was reconstructed with reference to Po for women from portrait and Buddhist painting. Goryeo fabrics, which may have been produced as a result of the textile policy of King Chungseon, can be used as the main material. Since the banquet took place in winter, there is also a need for thick lining and fur clothes. Through this study, we want to supplement the costume contents of Goryeo.