정창원 소장 혼탈 반비(渾脱半臂)의 형태와 협힐염색 기법에 관한 연구

Abstract

This research aims to recreate the Hontal Banbi from the Banbi Collection in Shosoin, Japan. It also seeks to meticulously record the process of reproduction of the morphologic structure of the Banbi and multi-colored clamp resist dyeing, which had been difficult to understand when examining national documents. Through researching the ancient Banbi and clamp resist dyeing, this study aims to gain comprehensive basic information on ancient clothes and their manufacturing process. The Banbi is Woo’im-shaped and the Gil is extended and unattached to the sleeve. It has no back or shoulder seam and all Gils, Geotseps, Anseops, and the collar are made of the same fabric. The lining has a back seam and has a Geotseop and Anseop; the top lining is multi-layered and the Ran is single layered. The Ran and Goreum of the Banbi are made of La fabric made with clamp resist dyeing and are dyed with four colors: orange, red, and blue-green on a crimson background. The Banbi is presumed to be assembled as follows - the Short Goreum, attached to the Anseop, comes out through the hole next to the side line of the front Gil and the Long Goreum, attached to the Geotseop, goes around the body in the direction of the Woo’im, and then is tied with the short Goreum. Rubi tinctorum roots, Miscanthus tinctorius, indigo, and Lithospermum erythrorhizon have been used in the recreation process of the clamp resist dye and the top Banbi. A symmetric wooden printing block was used in clamp resist dyeing, which yielded a similar result to the relic, proving that multi-colored clamp resist dyeing is possible with one pair of wooden printing blocks.