현대 패션디자인에 나타난 청대(淸代) 마갑(馬甲)과 마괘(馬褂)의 응용

Abstract

The Qing Dynasty Vest and Mandarin Jacket are traditional Chinese costumes. However, design elements are used in today"s society and can be found in recent collections in Paris and Milan, including Eastern and Western brands. Qing Dynasty Vest and Mandarin Jacket are originally clothes worn by northern minorities on riding horses. They are exclusively for Manchu nobles in the early Qing Dynasty, but they are gradually passed down to the public and became daily clothes. This study investigated the process and characteristics of the Qing Dynasty Vest and Mandarin Jacket changes applied to contemporary fashion design. In this study, the methodology was to analyze the change process and characteristics of the Qing Dynasty Vest and Mandarin Jacket through literature and internet resources. After extract a design in which traditional Chinese cultural elements were applied to the design targeting the Paris and Milan fashion collections of the last six years, pieces were selected in which elements of the Qing Dynasty Vest and Mandarin Jacket were implied to the design. The differences in Chinese and Western brands" expression styles in the use of design elements of traditional Chinese costumes were analyzed. Finally, 71 out of 1086 pieces from the 2015 S/S collection to the 2020 S/S collection were analyzed by silhouette, color, pattern, material, and detail. Chinese fashion brands such as Heaven Gaia, Guo Pei, Shiatzy Chen, and Western fashion brands Vivienne Tam, Gucci, Armani, Elie Saab, and Prada were included.