From greenwashing to green trust: Understanding the consumer behavior in the fashion industry.

Carbon footprint of monomer recycling for mixed synthetic textiles - a grave-to-gate analysis.

The evolution of the digital fashion sector has transformed consumption patterns, particularly among Generation Z. Fast fashion has emerged as a well-known business model characterized by affordable trendy products and extremely rapid production cycles. This phenomenon has triggered more impulsive consumer behavior and a heightened “Fear of Missing Out” (FOMO) among young buyers. However, growing awareness of environmental issues, labor exploitation, and manipulative marketing strategies has given rise to a new phenomenon known as “de-influencing.” This study aims to explore how de-influencing has affected Generation Z’s purchasing behavior, shifting them from fast fashion culture toward more critical and conscious consumption patterns. The study employs a qualitative method by integrating literature review and analyzing various academic articles, journals, and online sources related to consumer behavior, social media, fast fashion, and de-influencing. The findings indicate that social media serves as a dominant factor shaping Generation Z consumer behavior, both through influencer impact and digital platform algorithms. Nevertheless, increasing digital literacy and social awareness encourage Generation Z to question overconsumption culture and place greater value on sustainability, brand transparency, and long-term product utility. The phenomenon of de-influencing represents a form of resistance to consumerist culture while also reflecting this broader behavioral shift.

ABSTRACT This study examined how micro-influencer characteristics shape brand awareness in the fast fashion sector, with consumer brand engagement acting as a mediating mechanism. Survey data were collected from 298 individuals who followed at least one fashion-related micro-influencer. The results indicated that micro-influencer attributes significantly enhanced both engagement and brand awareness. When analysed jointly, expertise and perceived similarity emerged as the strongest drivers of engagement, whereas attractiveness and content quality were the main predictors of brand awareness. Mediation analyses showed that engagement played a central role in transmitting the effects of influencer characteristics to brand awareness, with most attributes exerting both direct and indirect effects. Additional analyses revealed that consumers previously influenced by micro-influencers placed greater importance on expertise, attractiveness, similarity, and content quality. Overall, the findings advance understanding of micro-influencer effectiveness and provide actionable insights for brands seeking to optimise influencer selection and campaign design in fast fashion contexts.

ABSTRACT The competing value propositions of sustainable and fast fashion have triggered a consumption paradox among Generation Z consumers. This study examines how different identity orientations influence the consumption of sustainable and fast fashion using an integrated multi-identity framework that draws from the self-concept and social identity theories. Specifically, this study examines how identity constructs- voluntary simplicity, mindfulness, frugality, status consumption, hedonism and need for uniqueness, differentially influence sustainable and fast fashion consumption. Data were collected from South African Generation Z consumers across two independent studies, one examining sustainable fashion consumption (n = 310) and one examining fast fashion consumption (n = 324). Structural equation modelling was applied to test the hypotheses. Mindfulness and voluntary simplicity emerged as the primary drivers of sustainable fashion consumption. Status, hedonism, need for uniqueness, and frugality drove fast fashion consumption. Intriguingly, frugality, status and hedonism positively predicted both outcomes, revealing the dual identity tensions at the heart of the paradox. The findings of this study offer identity-based strategic guidance for positioning sustainable fashion competitively among Generation Z consumers.

ABSTRACT This study examines transparency and engagement as cornerstone features of sustainable strategic communication practice, drawing insights from a multi-year ethnographic study involving the Swedish fashion organization, Nudie Jeans. Positioning sustainability at the heart of good strategic communication practice, particularly within the Nordic context, which is recognized for its emphasis on sustainability, we explore how Nudie Jeans enacts these features and the challenges they produce. The analysis reveals a circular and recursive relationship between transparency and engagement: transparency is both an ideal that drives relationship building and a practice that serves as a precursor to sustained engagement. The study highlights Nudie Jeans’ emphasis on relational rather than technological transparency, built through long-term relationships with suppliers and customers, thereby circumventing sole reliance on technological solutions such as Blockchain. We identify key global challenges to both transparency and engagement that reveal strains in the Nordic model in global supply chain contexts. These include issues of relational reciprocity with suppliers, institutional constraints related to the omnipresent fast fashion industry, and the political specificity of cornerstone values. These findings underscore the need to analyze transparency and engagement as politically and institutionally bounded concepts in global supply chains.

The fashion industry, driven by fast fashion practices, significantly contributes to textile waste, highlighting the need for sustainable approaches within fashion education. This study examines the feasibility of the KONKA sustainable ready-to-wear collection as a design-based learning medium for embedding sustainability values in fashion education. The KONKA collection applies upcycling techniques by transforming two discarded shirts into a single skirt design, with the traditional game of congklak serving as the primary source of design inspiration. A descriptive, quantitative method was employed, utilizing a percentage-based feasibility assessment. Data were collected through a design feasibility instrument and evaluated by three fashion design experts, focusing on color, design lines, silhouette, proportional balance, and center of interest. The results show that the KONKA design achieved a feasibility score of 95.6%, categorized as highly feasible. These findings suggest that upcycling-based ready-to-wear design can serve as an effective pedagogical medium for embedding sustainability values, resulting in designs that are both aesthetically pleasing and functionally practical, as well as culturally meaningful. This study supports Education for Sustainable Development (ESD) in fashion education, offering insights for curriculum development and sustainable fashion practices.

Purpose This study examines the micro-factory model as a sustainable alternative to conventional fashion manufacturing. Focusing on a Korean fashion micro-factory, it explores how localized production, skilled labor, and sustainability-oriented practices are mobilized to address environmental and operational challenges associated with globalized supply chains and fast fashion systems. Design/methodology/approach The study adopts a qualitative single case study methodology informed by the resource-based view (RBV). Data were collected through semi-structured interviews, non-participant observations, and photographic documentation to examine how physical, human, and organizational resources are configured within a fashion micro-factory to support slow fashion production. Findings The findings show that Korean fashion micro-factories leverage co-located production infrastructure, multi-skilled labor, and flexible organizational routines to enable small-batch, on-demand manufacturing. While financial constraints and scalability limitations persist, the case demonstrates how micro-factories enhance resilience and sustainability by optimizing internal resources and strengthening localized supply chain relationships. Practical implications The study offers practical insights for fashion entrepreneurs, manufacturers, and policymakers seeking sustainable production alternatives. It highlights the value of investing in localized manufacturing, skill development, and flexible production systems to support resilient and resource-efficient fashion supply chains. Originality/value This research contributes empirical evidence to the underexplored micro-factory literature within fashion studies. By integrating slow fashion principles with the RBV, the study demonstrates how small-scale, localized production systems can function as strategic resources that support sustainability and competitive advantage.

Purpose Amid growing environmental concerns, circular fashion—an approach that promotes the reuse and recirculation of fashion goods—has emerged as a sustainable alternative to fast fashion. This study examines how sellers' communication strategies on re-commerce platforms impact consumers' perceptions and continuous purchase intentions for secondhand fashion items. Design/methodology/approach Grounded in signaling theory, this study explores the interactive effects of two key seller signals: sales information transparency and emotional communication through emojis. An online experimental design was adopted, targeting Korean women in their 20s and 30s. Findings Transparent product information, when combined with emotional cues, significantly enhances perceived seller authenticity. Seller authenticity mediates the relationship between communication signals and consumers' continuous purchase intentions. Additionally, a seller's social attractiveness strengthens this mediation effect, further amplifying consumers' repurchase intentions. Originality/value This research extends signaling theory to the re-commerce context and offers insights into how emotionally resonant, transparent communication can encourage sustained consumer engagement.

Currently, there is the environmental and social challenges emerging from the global clothing and textile industry, specifically on textile waste management. Additionally, the flow of second-hand clothing (SHC) between European countries especially the UK and Tanzania is increasing. In the UK, rapid growth of second-hand clothing (mitumba) driven by fast fashion results in vast quantities of discarded garments, of which only a fraction is recycled, leaving the remainder in landfills. Conversely, Tanzania has long depended on imported SHC a practice that, while affordable, has undermined local textile industries and contributed to waste accumulation. By examining Tanzania’s textile landscape, the research proposes that the local industry can significantly benefit from insights derived from the established UK supply chain system. Employing qualitative research methods including observation, individual interviews, focus group discussions, and co-design workshops. The study explored how Tanzanian artisans, designers, garment makers, and tailors can up-cycle mitumba by integrating it with locally produced virgin fabrics. This innovative approach aims to reinforce national identity by embedding culturally resonant motifs into new dress designs (NDD) that blend traditional textiles, such as kitenge, with upcycled clothing. Furthermore, by comparing the integrated UK supply chain with Tanzania’s fragmented distribution system, the study proposes a streamlined model that diverts second-hand textiles from landfills while stimulating local economic development. Informants propose integrating patriotism into education. Overall, the findings provide actionable insights for sustainable textile waste management and suggest potential policy interventions that harmonize environmental sustainability with cultural and economic revitalization

Purpose This article introduces the dark gap as a relational configuration characterising socially irresponsible consumption. It describes situations in which awareness of negative impacts is associated with a more negative attitude and lower levels of consumption, while sustained behaviour is positively associated with attitude. We use fast fashion consumption as an illustrative case within the broader retail and distribution context and examine generational differences in this configuration. Design/methodology/approach A survey of 373 French women was conducted, comparing generations born before (baby boomers and Generation X) and after (Generations Y and Z) the rise of fast fashion. Constructs measured include awareness of fast fashion's impact, attitude towards fast fashion, and self-reported fast fashion consumption frequency. Findings Fast fashion natives demonstrate higher awareness of negative impacts and hold a more critical attitude than older consumers; however, they report higher levels of consumption. Moreover, higher levels of fast fashion consumption are positively associated with a more favourable attitude, indicating a behaviour–attitude dynamic that may help explain the persistence of socially irresponsible consumption. The findings provide empirical support for the dark gap configuration. Originality/value The dark gap offers a conceptual lens for understanding persistent socially irresponsible behaviours by extending sustainable consumption research beyond linear attitude–behaviour models, highlighting the role of behaviour in shaping attitudes. This study also provides actionable insights for retail and distribution managers as it highlights the limits of awareness-based strategies and the importance of generational differentiation.

The penetration of digital technology over the past two decades has transformed patterns of public consumption, including in Biak Numfor Regency. This study aims to critically examine how exposure to fast fashion advertising on digital platforms reproduces the mechanisms of the culture industry and instrumental rationality as conceptualized by Max Horkheimer, and how these processes shape public consciousness, preferences, and consumption practices. This research employs a descriptive qualitative approach, with data collected through in-depth interviews with purposively selected informants and observations of social media usage patterns. The findings indicate that Facebook, Instagram, TikTok, and TikTok Shop serve as the primary channels for the dissemination of fast fashion advertisements. The high frequency of advertisement exposure, particularly following search or purchase activities, demonstrates the operation of algorithmic personalization as a manifestation of instrumental rationality within digital capitalism. From a Critical Theory perspective, this condition represents the transformation of the culture industry into the digital sphere, where platforms not only market products but also construct false needs and normalize rapid consumption as part of a modern lifestyle. The study further reveals that exposure to fast fashion advertising contributes to the commodification of identity and the reproduction of consumerist values, gradually shifting the community’s collective orientation toward individualistic and symbolic logic. Clothing is no longer understood merely as a functional necessity but as a means of social legitimation mediated by platform capitalism. These findings affirm the subtle operation of ideological domination through digital media and underscore the importance of strengthening critical literacy in responding to the expansion of global consumer culture.

This paper examines how algorithmic governance reshapes global value chains (GVCs) in the context of platform-based fast fashion. While prior research has explored platform governance and GVC organization separately, less attention has been paid to how algorithmic systems intervene in production processes at an operational level. Drawing on a qualitative case study of SHEIN, this study uses multiple sources of secondary data, including company disclosures, industry reports, and third-party analyses. A process-tracing approach is adopted to reconstruct the development of SHEIN’s on-demand manufacturing model. The findings suggest that algorithmic governance operates through three interrelated mechanisms: real-time demand sensing, small-batch production, and dynamic supply chain coordination. Together, these mechanisms enable a shift from a forecast-driven “push” model to a data-driven “pull” model, reducing inventory risk while improving responsiveness. By linking platform governance with GVC analysis, this paper provides a mechanism-based explanation of how data capabilities reshape production organization. It also highlights digital embedding as an alternative pathway for firms to participate in global value creation.

We conduct a choice experiment survey to determine Swedish consumers' preferences for T-shirts with different levels of health risks to the consumer, environmental impact of production, and working conditions during production. We estimate the marginal willingness to pay (MWTP) for improvements in each attribute and explore ethical trade-offs between them. We conduct the same analysis for consumers buying a t-shirt for themselves and parents purchasing a t-shirt for their children. Our findings show that the health attribute was ranked highest, followed by working conditions and the environmental attribute. While the ranking of the attributes is consistent between the two samples, parents exhibited a lower overall MWTP. We also observe a general pattern of higher willingness to pay to avoid the lowest level (‘Very Poor’) of each attribute and achieve the intermediate level (‘Fairly Good’) than for further improvements to the highest level (‘Good’). This pattern, consistent with how the levels were designed, holds across all subsamples and attributes. Thus, we find substantial demand for more sustainable clothing, particularly for avoiding the worst practices. Our results also suggest that producers could pass on a portion of their increases in costs if sustainability improvements are effectively communicated. While most consumers are not willing to pay more to reach the highest level of an attribute, there are groups of consumers who are willing to pay a premium for high sustainability standards. • Public concern over health, environmental, and working conditions risks in clothing. • Significant demand for improved sustainability standards to an acceptable baseline. • Highest MWTP for health protection and lowest for environmental protection.

Responsible fashion, a term quite popular these days, is not as widely understood as it may seem. The fashion industry today shapes identity, trends, and consumption, yet its environmental footprint remains substantial. This heightened association between identity and fashion has contributed to the rapid growth of trends and the rise of fast fashion, which in turn has had significant negative impacts on the environment. As such terms gain attention from consumers, the key trends within responsible fashion include the circular economy, the use of sustainable and bio-fabricated textiles (such as organic cotton and lab-grown fabrics), slow fashion, zero-waste design, and increasing efforts toward supply chain transparency and ethical production. Major brands are aligning their values accordingly. For example, H&M has set a goal of achieving net-zero emissions by 2040 and is transitioning toward a circular model. This study surveyed individuals across varied demographics, with a focus on those from fashion and design backgrounds. Findings reveal persistent gaps in awareness and limited understanding of terms such as greenwashing and circular economy. The survey also encouraged participants to reflect on their own perceptions of sustainability, highlighting that sustainability is not a fixed label but rather a scale influenced by every stage of a garment’s journey.

The fast fashion industry causes substantial environmental harm. To promote a transition toward fair fashion, understanding and targeting the psychological factors influencing clothing consumption is crucial. To this end, two online experimental vignette studies were conducted, where participants rated perceived sustainability or purchase intention in an online shop scenario. The clothing items varied systematically regarding three product factors: material (polyester, recycled polyester, cotton, organic cotton), price (low, high), and design (trendy, timeless). Experiment 1 revealed distinct patterns of influence of the three product factors on perceived sustainability ( n 1 = 116) and purchase intention ( n 2 = 114). Garments made of cotton were perceived as more sustainable and more likely to be purchased than those made of polyester, with organic cotton and recycled polyester outperforming their conventional counterparts. Low-priced items were perceived as less sustainable but associated with higher purchase intention compared to high-priced items. Timeless designs were rated as more sustainable than trendy designs, yet intended consumption did not differ between designs. In Experiment 2, participants were provided with informational texts before the vignettes detailing the relationship between environmental harm and low price ( n 1 = 44), short-lived design trends ( n 2 = 37), or polyester material (control group; n 3 = 42). The design intervention reduced the intended consumption for trendy items compared to the control group, while the price intervention showed no corresponding reduction for low-priced items. These findings highlight the role of product attributes and heuristics in sustainable fashion purchase intention, offering implications for sustainable consumption research and practice.

The fashion industry is one of the most resource-intensive sectors, generating major environmental impacts such as greenhouse gas emissions, excessive water and land use, and pollution from waste and microplastics. Fast fashion intensifies these issues through overproduction and overconsumption. However, growing consumer awareness and regulatory pressure are pushing brands to adopt Circular Economy (CE) and sustainability strategies, including resale platforms, recycling programs, and sustainability frameworks. Despite these efforts, their real effectiveness remains uncertain. This study investigates which CE and sustainability strategies are most common among fast fashion companies and how they can mitigate key environmental impacts. Using a Fuzzy Cognitive Maps (FCM) model, the research quantitatively evaluates the effects of various circular and sustainable strategies across the supply chain. Ten key strategies were identified, revealing that isolated actions are often ineffective. Instead, an integrated, systemic approach combining multiple initiatives is essential to achieve meaningful sustainability improvements.

Book review: <i>Precarious Accumulation: Fast Fashion Bosses in Transnational Guangzhou</i> , by Nellie Chu ChuNellie, Precarious Accumulation: Fast Fashion Bosses in Transnational Guangzhou, Duke University Press: Durham, NC, 2026; 265 pp., US$ 29.95 (paper): ISBN: 9781478033097

The study investigates the theoretical and practical foundations of classical women’s fashion design and production, positioning it within the framework of sustainability and modern technological innovation. In an era dominated by fast fashion and rapidly shifting trends, the classical style remains a symbol of stability, cultural continuity, and refined taste. However, the absence of a systematic, science-based approach to its creation has led to inconsistencies in design and quality. The research develops a Three-Dimensional Theoretical Model that unites historical-canonical, aesthetic-functional, and technological-technical dimensions into a coherent methodological system. Through historical-typological, stylistic, and comparative analyses, the study explores the practices of leading international brands—Max Mara, Dior, Chanel, and Zara—between 2021 and 2025. Empirical data derived from corporate sustainability reports, design archives, and industry databases reveal how classical aesthetics align with technological precision and sustainability principles. The findings demonstrate that the preservation of the classical canon depends on the integration of three key factors: historical continuity, aesthetic harmony, and technological advancement. Luxury brands such as Max Mara, Dior, and Chanel exemplify this balance, achieving longevity and quality through craftsmanship and innovation, while Zara represents an adaptive “mass classicism” model suited to the fast-fashion segment. The proposed model provides a structured foundation for contemporary fashion design theory and offers practical applications for sustainable, high-quality garment production. It reaffirms the classical style’s relevance as a timeless, ethical, and technologically adaptive system in modern fashion.

Since fast fashion is one of the world’s most polluting industries, determining how consumers can be driven towards more sustainable behavior, is essential. Greenfluencers are important actors in disseminating sustainability-related messages, with many focusing on fashion-related content. This paper aims to understand greenfluencers’ effects by conducting a conceptual replication of the Information Adoption Model (IAM). Specifically, we examine how argument quality and source credibility affect information usefulness, which is a known predictor of information adoption and behavioral intentions. In two studies, a cross-sectional survey (Study 1; N = 186) and an experiment (Study 2; N = 200), greenfluencers increase consumers’ perceived information usefulness through perceived argument quality, but not through source credibility. Moreover, increased perceived usefulness leads to more sustainable purchase (Study 1) and non-purchase behavioral intentions (Study 2) through an increase in information adoption. Thus, greenfluencers should focus on their argument quality whenever trying to persuade consumers to more sustainable consumption behavior.