Although organic UV-filters are extensively used in cosmetics to protect consumers from the deleterious effects of solar UV radiation-exposure, they suffer from some major drawbacks such as their fossil origin and their toxicity to both humans and the environment. Thus, finding sustainable and non-toxic UV-filters is becoming a topic of great interest for the cosmetic industry. A few years ago, sinapoyl malate was shown to be a powerful naturally occurring UV-filter. Building on these findings, we decided to design and optimize an entire value chain that goes from biomass to innovative biobased and non-toxic lignin-derived UV-filters. This multidisciplinary approach relies on: 1) The production of phenolic synthons using either metabolite extraction from biomass or their bioproduction through synthetic biology/fermentation/in stream product recovery; 2) their functionalization using green chemistry to access sinapoyl malate and analogues; 3) the study of their UV-filtering activity, their photostability, their biological properties; and 4) their photodynamics. This mini-review aims at demonstrating that combining biotechnology, green chemistry, downstream process and photochemistry is a powerful approach to transform biomass and, in particular lignins, into high value-added innovative UV-filters.

In order to afford the required level of broad-spectrum photoprotection against UV-B and UV-A radiation, sunscreens must contain a combination of UV filters. It is important that any interactions between UV filters do not adversely affect their photostability nor the overall photostability of the sunscreen formulation. In this work, we explore the feasibility of using methyl anthranilate (MA) as an alternative to the photo-unstable UV-A filter, avobenzone. From the in vitro studies presented here, we conclude that MA does not provide sufficient UV-A protection on its own but that it is more photostable in formulation than avobenzone. In addition, we found that both octocrylene (OCR) and ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate (EHMC), two commonly used UV-B filters, can stabilize MA through quenching of its triplet states, as previously reported, which has a demonstrable effect in formulation. In contrast with previously reported observations for mixtures of EHMC and avobenzone, we found no evidence of [2+2] photocycloadditions taking place between EHMC and MA. This work demonstrates how a clear insight into the photophysics and photochemistry of UV filters, as well as the interactions between them, can inform formulation design to predict sunscreen performance.

Three-dimensional engineering of skeletal muscle is becoming increasingly relevant for tissue engineering, disease modeling and bio-hybrid robotics, where flexible, versatile and multidisciplinary approaches for the evaluation of tissue differentiation, functionality and force measurement are required. This works presents a 3D-printed platform of bioengineered human skeletal muscle which can efficiently model the three-dimensional structure of native tissue, while providing information about force generation and contraction profiles. Proper differentiation and maturation of myocytes is demonstrated by the expression of key myo-proteins using immunocytochemistry and analyzed by confocal microscopy, and the functionality assessed via electrical stimulation and analysis of contraction kinetics. To validate the flexibility of this platform for complex tissue modeling, the bioengineered muscle is treated with tumor necrosis factor α to mimic the conditions of aging, which is supported by morphological and functional changes. Moreover, as a proof of concept, the effects of Argireline® Amplified peptide, a cosmetic ingredient that causes muscle relaxation, are evaluated in both healthy and aged tissue models. Therefore, the results demonstrate that this 3D-bioengineered human muscle platform could be used to assess morphological and functional changes in the aging process of muscular tissue with potential applications in biomedicine, cosmetics and bio-hybrid robotics.

The biotechnological production of platform chemicals from renewable resources is in the scientific spotlight, as researchers seek to develop environmentally friendly and cost-efficient processes to compete with the petroleum-based ones. Lactic acid (LA) is an established platform chemical, registering an important market share, mainly owing to the increasing demand for polylactic acid. This study investigated the feasibility to produce LA from bakery waste hydrolysates and lucerne green juice (LGJ) as inexpensive substrates, using a Bacillus coagulans strain. A final LA concentration of 62.2 g/L, with a productivity of 2.59 g/(L.h) and a conversion yield of 0.57 g LA/ g bakery waste was achieved in batch fermentation mode. LA productivity reached 11.28 g/(L.h), using a continuous fermentation system coupled with cell retention membranes at a dilution rate of 0.2 h−1. The results indicate that bakery waste hydrolysates and LGJ can be utilized for the production of highly optical pure L(+)-LA.

Sensory perceptions and performance are important to the success of a lipstick formulation, but invivo evaluation can be expensive and time-consuming. The goal of this work was to develop and use laboratory test methods to predict the sensory and performance properties of lipstick. Twelve model lipstick formulations were prepared, in which only the emollient varied, resulting in a variety of sensory and performance properties. The lipsticks were tested for sensory perceptions of spreadability, stickiness, opacity and gloss with a nine-person panel. The performance properties were evaluated with a friction test using a CETR UMT-2 tribometer, an application test using an analytical balance, a tack test using a Texture Analyser TA.XT-Plus and a colour development/retention test using photography and image analysis. The results of the laboratory tests were compared with the results of the sensory panel using statistical modelling. The results of the laboratory tests correlated well with the measured sensory properties. The results of the friction test classified the lipsticks into four groups, which were termed oily, creamy, waxy and sticky; these classifications were also evident in the other laboratory test data. Surprisingly, it was found that the friction test could be used alone to predict all the measured sensory properties with statistical models. The correlation between the coefficient of friction and the measured sensory properties is explained by the balance of adhesive and cohesive properties of the lipstick. These properties are influenced by the emollient and affect the application properties and resulting film. The emollient has a significant effect on the sensory and performance properties of a lipstick, which can be predicted with the developed laboratory tests. Furthermore, the friction test can be used to sufficiently predict four important lipstick sensory attributes: spreadability, stickiness, opacity and gloss. Using the methods presented here, lipstick formulations may be more rapidly developed and optimized.

Various human trials and pre-clinical studies have suggested that dietary plant sterols possess hypotriacylglycerolaemic properties apart from their cholesterol-lowering properties. We hypothesised that phytosterols (PS) might attenuate triacylglycerolaemia by interfering with the deleterious effects of cholesterol overload in the liver. In the present study, twenty hamsters (Mesocricetus auratus) with diet-induced combined hyperlipidaemia were fed a high-fat diet (HFD, n 10) or a HFD supplemented with soyabean PS (n 10) for 40 d. In parallel, a healthy group was fed a standard diet (n 10). PS normalised fasting plasma cholesterol concentrations completely after 20 d and were also able to normalise serum TAG and NEFA concentrations after 40 d. HFD feeding caused microvesicular steatosis and impaired the expression of key genes related to fatty acid oxidation such as PPARA, carnitine palmitoyltransferase-Iα (CPT1A) and phosphoenolpyruvate carboxykinase 1 (PCK1) in the liver. PS treatment completely protected against HFD-induced steatosis and resulted in a normalised hepatic gene expression profile. The protection of the hepatic function by PS was paralleled by increased faecal cholesterol excretion along with a 2-fold increase in the biliary bile acid (BA):cholesterol ratio. The present study supports the conclusion that long-term consumption of PS can reduce serum TAG and NEFA concentrations and can protect against the development of fatty liver via different mechanisms, including the enhancement of BA synthesis. The results of the present study place these compounds as promising hepatoprotective agents against fatty liver and its derived pathologies.

Singlet-oxygen is a non-radical reactive oxygen species believed to play a major role in many photooxidation processes in connection with diverse photo-biological processes such as skin ageing or photocarcinogenesis. Dimethylmethoxy chromanol (3,4-dihydro-6-hydroxy-2,2-dimethyl-7-methoxy-1(2H)-benzopyran) is a potent antioxidant used in cosmetic and pharmaceutical formulations. We have assessed the singlet oxygen quenching ability of dimethylmethoxy chromanol, by monitoring the near-IR phosphorescence of singlet-oxygen in solution and in ex vivo porcine skin samples. Dimethylmethoxy chromanol quenches singlet oxygen with a rate constant of (1.3 ± 0.1) × 10⁸ M⁻¹ s⁻¹ in solution. Consistent with this, a clear reduction in the singlet oxygen lifetime and emission intensity was observed when ex vivo porcine skin samples were treated with dimethylmethoxy chromanol.

The surface activity of chroman-6 (CR-6) and chroman-6 palmitoyl ester (PCR-6) and the interactions with lipid membranes, using 1,2-dipamitoyl-sn-glycero-3-phosphocholine (DPPC) and 1,2-dioleoyl-sn-glycero-3-phosphocholine (DOPC) monolayers, were determined. 8-Anilino-1-naphthalenesulfonic acid titration indicates that none of these molecules was able to form aggregates in aqueous media. The presence of a palmitoyl chain in PCR-6 increases strongly the surface activity of the parent compound (CR-6), rendering a molecule to form stable monomolecular layers. The interaction of both compounds with DPPC and DOPC, measured at constant area or in a compression isotherm model, follows the same trend. Miscibility studies performed with DPPC/CR-6 or PCR-6 indicate that the energies involved are small. The presence of CR-6 and PCR-6 has a soft influence on the compressibility of the Langmuir mixed films. Differential scanning calorimetry studies indicate that CR-6 and PCR-6 modify the temperature and cooperativity of the transition from gel to liquid crystal process in DPPC vesicles.