Windward Reef Research Articles

Bio-physical determinants of sediment accumulation on an offshore coral reef: A snapshot study

Sediments are found on all coral reefs around the globe. However, the amount of sediment in different reservoirs, and the rates at which sediments move between reservoirs, can shape the biological functioning of coral reefs. Unfortunately, relatively few studies have examined reef sediment dynamics, and associated bio-physical drivers, simultaneously over matching spatial and temporal scales. This has led to a partial understanding of how sediments and living reef systems are connected, especially on clear-water offshore reefs. To address this problem, four sediment reservoirs/sedimentary processes and three bio-physical drivers were quantified across seven different reef habitats/depths at Lizard Island, an exposed mid-shelf reef on the Great Barrier Reef. Even in this clear-water reef location a substantial load of suspended sediment passed over the reef; a load theoretically capable of replacing the entire standing stock of on-reef turf sediments in just 8 h. However, quantification of actual sediment deposition suggested that just 2 % of this passing sediment settled on the reef. The data also revealed marked spatial incongruence in sediment deposition (sediment trap data) and accumulation (TurfPod data) across the reef profile, with the flat and back reef emerging as key areas of both deposition and accumulation. By contrast, the shallow windward reef crest was an area of deposition but had a limited capacity for sediment accumulation. These cross-reef patterns related to wave energy and reef geomorphology, with low sediment accumulation on the ecologically important reef crest aligning with substantial wave energy. These findings reveal a disconnect between patterns of sediment deposition and accumulation on the benthos, with the ‘post-settlement’ fate of sediments dependent on local hydrodynamic conditions. From an ecological perspective, the data suggests key contextual constraints (wave energy and reef geomorphology) may predispose some reefs or reef areas to high-load turf sediment regimes.

Spatial patterns in the cover and composition of macroalgal assemblages on fringing and nearshore coral reefs

Context Although increases in macroalgal cover on coral reefs are often reported alongside declines in coral, the composition of algal assemblages and their spatial dynamics are not commonly investigated. Aims To quantify changes in macroalgal assemblage composition over two spatial environmental gradients, depth and distance from shore, within a nearshore reef system in Kimbe Bay, Papua New Guinea, where coral cover has declined. Methods Benthic cover was quantified at three depths (reef flat, 10 and 15 m) on the windward reef slopes of six reefs located three distances from shore (fringing reefs, and platform reefs 100–200 m and 0.7−1 km offshore). Key results Macroalgal cover was highest on the reef flat, and assemblage composition varied among depths and distances from shore. Macroalgal cover was not correlated with coral cover except where macroalgal cover was greater than 20%, where a negative correlation occurred. There was no correlation between macroalgal cover and turf algal cover. All three benthic groups were negatively correlated with the combined total cover of sand and gravel. Conclusions These results indicated a fine-scale spatial structure of macroalgal assemblages on coral reefs over a narrow depth range and short distance from shore and highlighted the importance of a solid substratum. Implications It is likely that the ecological interactions between corals and macroalgae vary considerably over narrow spatial gradients.

Oceanic patterns of thermal stress and coral community degradation on the island of Mauritius

Knowing the responses of high-latitude corals to thermal impacts will be critical to predicting the possibility for range expansion of reefs provoked by climate change. We, therefore, tested how oceanographic and island geography variation and subsequent interactions between chronic and acute environmental stresses would influence the temperate corals of Mauritius (~ 20°S). Specifically, we predicted higher impacts of thermal stress due to rare events on ocean-impacted windward than leeward reefs. To test this prediction, surveys of benthic cover and corals in the shallow lagoon’s perimeter reefs were repeated between 2004 and 2019—an interval with frequent warm thermal anomalies. Hard and soft coral cover declined 40% and 83%, respectively, and erect algae increased 78% over the 15-yr interval. Coral taxa were distributed along a Montipora-community axis dominant on the island’s leeward reefs and an Acropora-axis dominant on the windward reefs. Nine of the 30 originally encountered sub-genera were not observed in the second sampling, of which most losses were on the windward reefs and among taxa that were initially uncommon during the initial 2004 sampling. The largest declines occurred in the southeast where rare acute stress was higher and open-ocean conditions interacted strongly with the island. The north and western corals experienced less acute stress and greater persistence of taxa. Searching an additional 15 sites in 2019 found six of the missing coral taxa, often in deeper reef edges. Screening of potential environmental variables indicated that that skewness of the degree heating weeks and thermal stress anomalies were the strongest predictor of the changes. A chronic stress metric was more difficult to identify but water flow variability and chlorophyll-a concentrations were part of the oceanographic conditions associated with attenuated responses to acute stress. Frequent acute stress was associated with lower thermal acclimation rates over the 15-yr interval and more evident for the dominant than subdominant taxa. The extra-equatorial location of Mauritius will not ensure latitudinal sanctuary, apart from the leeward reefs.

Record of abundance, spatial distribution and gregarious behavior of invasive lionfish Pterois spp. (Scorpaeniformes: Scorpae nidae) in coral reefs of Banco Chinchorro Biosphere Reserve, southeastern Mexico

The lionfish ( Pterois volitans , P. miles) is the first known species of marine fish to invade the Caribbean and Gulf of Mexico, and it is threatening the biodiversity of the region´s coral reefs. Its success as an invasive species is due to its high predation and fertility, fast growth and lack of predators. Its first recorded appearance in Mexico was in 2009. Twenty-two sites were monitored around the reef of Banco Chinchorro Biosphere Reserve (BCBR), to estimate their abundance, during 2013. Densities from 0 to 333 ind ha -1 (97.6 ± 140.2 ind ha -1 ) and biomasses from 0 to 58.7 kg ha -1 (18.2 ± 29.9 kg ha -1 ) were recorded, the highest so far in the Mexican Caribbean. In addition, two lionfish distribution zones were detected: leeward reef (LR) and windward reef (WR). LR was 4.6 and 3.9 times higher in density and biomass than WR, respectively. The sizes found in the monitoring ranged from 5 to 40 cm of total length. Finally, a gregarious behavior was observed in 47.5% of the recorded fish. Our results suggest that to prevent the development of large reservoirs of lionfishes in the BCBR, management and control actions in areas of high lionfish abundance should be prioritized.

Making the most of data-poor fisheries: Low cost mapping of small island fisheries to inform policy

Data scarcity in small-scale fisheries hinders the effective management of marine resources. This is particularly true within small island developing states that often have limited capacity for monitoring activities that could inform policy decisions. This study estimates the spatial distribution of fishing activity in the data-poor nearshore reef fisheries of Barbados using low cost interview surveys of fishers combined with a geospatial platform. With data from over 150 fishers in the island's major reef fisheries, the estimated total annual yield ranged from 272.6 to 409.0mt, with seine fishing accounting for 65% of landings. This estimate is substantially higher than the recorded landings in official databases. Fishing activity is concentrated on the sheltered and heavily populated West Coast of the island. Reef fishing effort decreases markedly during the months associated with the offshore pelagic fishery season, as many fishers switch fisheries during this time and rough sea conditions restrict access to the nearshore windward reefs. The high levels of fishing intensity and low yields per unit of reef area appear to validate anecdotal evidence that the nearshore reefs of Barbados are heavily overexploited. The qualitative nature of interview data and other data gaps hinder the precise estimation of fishing effort and yield, where relative values are likely to be more accurate than absolute values. Nonetheless, the spatially and temporally explicit data generated here demonstrates how simple cost-effective methods can be used to fill important information gaps for marine resource management and spatial planning.

Looking at the soft-bottom around a coastal coral reef: the impact of terrigenous input on Polychaeta (Annelida) community

ABSTRACT Erosion on coral reefs produces fragments of the constructor organisms that are scattered all around, thus enlarging the reef boundaries. Statistical modelling approach was used to investigate whether the Polychaeta community around Sebastião Gomes reef (Abrolhos Bank, Brazil) is influenced equally by sediment characteristics and/or by position related to the reef, that are variables related to the terrigenous input influence. In July 2007, a period dominated by winds that resuspend fine sediment from the land to coastal reefs, sediment samples were taken on four transects perpendicular to the reef (S, W, N and E) and a total of 121 species of polychaetes were recorded. The most abundant species was the carnivorous Goniadides carolinae and the model selected for it approximates to the best models fitted for both total macrofauna and polychaete abundance. These models represented higher abundance in coarse carbonate sediments on windward reef faces, where there is almost no terrigenous sediment. On the other hand, the Polychaeta richness did not depend on the transects. Sebastião Gomes reef is one of the many coastal reefs from Abrolhos Bank, whose healthy is probably in danger because of the increase of mud related to human activities, as deforestation and, recently, mining waste.

Looking at the soft-bottom around a coastal coral reef: the impact of terrigenous input on Polychaeta (Annelida) community

Abstract Erosion on coral reefs produces fragments of the constructor organisms that are scattered all around, thus enlarging the reef boundaries. Statistical modelling approach was used to investigate whether the Polychaeta community around Sebastião Gomes reef (Abrolhos Bank, Brazil) is influenced equally by sediment characteristics and/or by position related to the reef, that are variables related to the terrigenous input influence. In July 2007, a period dominated by winds that resuspend fine sediment from the land to coastal reefs, sediment samples were taken on four transects perpendicular to the reef (S, W, N and E) and a total of 121 species of polychaetes were recorded. The most abundant species was the carnivorous Goniadides carolinae and the model selected for it approximates to the best models fitted for both total macrofauna and polychaete abundance. These models represented higher abundance in coarse carbonate sediments on windward reef faces, where there is almost no terrigenous sediment. On the other hand, the Polychaeta richness did not depend on the transects. Sebastião Gomes reef is one of the many coastal reefs from Abrolhos Bank, whose healthy is probably in danger because of the increase of mud related to human activities, as deforestation and, recently, mining waste.

LOS ARRECIFES DE LA ISLA DE SAN ANDRÉS (MAR CARIBE, COLOMBIA)

The windward reef complex NE and E of San Andrés Island is briefly described in terms of submarine topography, sediments and the distribution of corals and other benthonic organisms. The breaker zone of the San Andrés barrier and other exposed Western Caribbean reefs characteristically exhibits a profuse growth consisting almost exclusively of Millepora. In this respect they are different from most other described West Indian reef localities, where Acropora palmata is the dominating species in this part of the reef. The replacement of Acropora palmata by Millepora is interpreted as an adaptation of the reef crest community to high energy environments due to long swell prevailing at the Western end of the Caribbean Sea. A few short reef sections exposed to the maximum degree of wave energy show conspicuous algal ridges.

Water flow and fin shape polymorphism in coral reef fishes.

Water flow gradients have been linked to phenotypic differences and swimming performance across a variety of fish assemblages. However, the extent to which water motion shapes patterns of phenotypic divergence within species remains unknown. We tested the generality of the functional relationship between swimming morphology and water flow by exploring the extent of fin and body shape polymorphism in 12 widespread species from three families (Acanthuridae, Labridae, Pomacentridae) of pectoral-fin swimming (labriform) fishes living across localized wave exposure gradients. The pectoral fin shape of Labridae and Acanthuridae species was strongly related to wave exposure: individuals with more tapered, higher aspect ratio (AR) fins were found on windward reef crests, whereas individuals with rounder, lower AR fins were found on leeward, sheltered reefs. Three of seven Pomacentridae species showed similar trends, and pectoral fin shape was also strongly related to wave exposure in pomacentrids when fin aspect ratios of three species were compared across flow habitats at very small spatial scales (<100 m) along a reef profile (reef slope, crest, and back lagoon). Unlike fin shape, there were no intraspecific differences in fish body fineless ratio across habitats or depths. Contrary to our predictions, there was no pattern relating species' abundances to polymorphism across habitats (i.e., abundance was not higher at sites where morphology is better adapted to the environment). This suggests that there are behavioral and/or physiological mechanisms enabling some species to persist across flow habitats in the absence of morphological differences. We suggest that functional relationships between swimming morphology and water flow not only structure species assemblages, but are yet another important variable contributing to phenotypic differences within species. The close links between fin shape polymorphism and local water flow conditions appear to be important for understanding species' distributions as well as patterns of diversification across environmental gradients.

Wave energy gradients and shoreline change on Vabbinfaru platform, Maldives

This study examined coral reef platform wave processes and shoreline dynamics over short timescales. Wave energy gradients and shoreline change were measured over a 3-week period on Vabbinfaru platform, North Malé Atoll, Maldives, during the westerly monsoon in June 2010. Wave processes were measured using nine pressure sensors recording near continuous data for 19days around the reef and shoreline of a small circular sand cay. Toe of beach position was surveyed before, during and after the deployment to map changes in shoreline configuration. Results show that wave height and direction on the windward reef are closely controlled by local wind activity inside the atoll lagoon. Wave transformation across the platform was found to exhibit strong tidal modulation and results in distinct cross-reef energy zonation. Results are presented by comparing two contrasting boundary wind conditions: the first 2weeks characterised by moderate southwest winds, and the third week characterised by stronger northwest winds. Wave data was interpolated to platform scale and used to show spatial variations in energy exposure during the different boundary conditions. Under southwest winds, greatest wave energy was present on the western and leeward (eastern) reefs, driving an energy gradient towards the sheltered northern and southern shorelines. A net 4.5% increase in beach area was measured during this period. During stronger northwest winds, higher wave energy impacted the reef and was concentrated on the western reef, northern reef and northwest shoreline. An energy gradient formed around the island towards a low energy zone located at the southeast shoreline. Significant shoreline change occurred during this period with the toe of beach retreating landward by more than 10m on the northwest, northeast and southwest of Vabbinfaru Island. Beach area was reduced by 3761m2 (17%) as the shoreline was forced to adjust in response to a new hydrodynamic regime. Results show that the coral reef platform is able to modify and filter the incident wave climate, resulting in marked spatial differences in wave spectra. Spatial differences in wave energy are sensitive to local wind activity, resulting in rapid alteration in wave energy distribution around the platform. Results highlight that reef island shorelines are morphologically sensitive to short-term changes in boundary wind and wave conditions. Wave energy gradients driven by local wind activity have the potential to drive alongshore fluxes of sediment around island shorelines. Therefore, changes to the process regime can result in disequilibrium of the shoreline, forcing rapid adjustment of island sediment.

Coral Community Decline at Bonaire, Southern Caribbean

We assessed the status of coral reef benthic communities at Bonaire, Netherlands Antilles, in December 2008 and January 2009 through ?5 km of photo transects taken at depths of 5, 10, and 20 m at 14 locations around the island. Univariate and multivariate analyses detected significant variation in benthic communities among depths and locations, as well as between leeward and windward sides of the island. Mean percentage cover of scleractinian corals ranged between 0.2% and 43.6% at the study sites and tended to be lowest at 5-m depth. The survey recorded 40 scleractinian coral species from 19 genera, within 10 families. Faviidae were by far the most abundant scleractinian family at all depths (predominantly Montastraea spp.), followed by Agariciidae at 20 and 10 m, and by Astrocoeniidae at 5-m depth. Macroalgal cover exceeded scleractinian coral cover at nearly all sites, averaging 34.9% (all samples pooled), compared with a pooled mean coral cover of 15.4%. Windward reefs were characterized by prolific growth of the brown algae Sargassum spp., and leeward reefs by growth of turf algae, Dictyota spp., Trichogloeopsis pedicellata (Howe) I. A. Abbott & Doty, and Lobophora variegata (Lamouroux) Womersley ex Oliveira. Damage from recent hurricanes was evident from the presence of toppled and fragmented corals, the movement of sand, and exposure of cemented Acropora cervicornis (Lamarck, 1816) rubble on the shallow reef platform. The combination of algal dominance and low to moderate coral cover are symptomatic of partly degraded reef systems, particularly as they coincide with elevated nutrients and reduced herbivory.

Coral mortality associated with thermal fluctuations in the Phoenix Islands, 2002–2005

The Phoenix Islands (Republic of Kiribati, 172–170°W and 2.5–5°S) experience intra- and inter-annual sea surface temperature variability of ≈2°C and have few local anthropogenic impacts. From July 2002, a thermal stress event occurred, which peaked at 21 Degree Heating Weeks (DHW) in January 2003 and persisted for 4 years. Such thermal stress was greater than any thermal event reported in the coral reef literature. Reef surveys were conducted in July 2000, June 2002, and May 2005, for six of the eight islands. Sampling was stratified by exposure (windward, leeward, and lagoon) and depth (5, 10, 15, and 25 m). The thermal stress event caused mass coral mortality, and coral cover declined by approximately 60% between 2002 and 2005. However, mortality varied among sites (12–100%) and among islands (42–79%) and varied in accordance with the presence of a lagoon, island size, and windward vs. leeward exposure. Leeward reefs experienced the highest and most consistent decline in coral cover. Island size and the presence of a lagoon showed positive correlations with coral mortality, most likely because of the longer water residence time enhancing heating. Windward reefs showed cooler conditions than leeward reefs. Recently dead corals were observed at depths >35 m on windward and >45 m on leeward reefs. Between-island variation in temperature had no effect on between-island variation in coral mortality. Mortality levels reported here were comparable to those reported for the most extreme thermal stress events of 9–10 DHW in other regions. These results highlight the high degree of acclimation and/or adaptation of the corals in the Phoenix Islands to their local temperature regime, and their consequent vulnerability to anomalous events. Moreover, the results suggest the need to adjust thermal stress calculations to reflect local temperature variation.

Spatiotemporal variability in recruitment around Iriomote Island, Ryukyu Archipelago, Japan: implications for dispersal of spawning corals

Spatiotemporal recruitment patterns of scleractinian corals were investigated around Iriomote Island, Ryukyu Archipelago, Japan, in relation to adult coral cover in 2005 and 2006. Although almost all corals were broadcasting spawners, the relationship between recruitment and adult coral cover differed among coral families (Acroporidae, Poritidae, and Pocilloporidae), likely due to differences in embryonic development time. For spawning pocilloporid corals, whose larvae develop relatively more rapidly, recruitment was higher at sites where adult coral cover was higher. In contrast, recruitment was not related to adult coral cover in acroporid and poritid corals, whose embryonic development times were relatively slow. Moreover, recruitment of acroporid corals varied between years, and recruitment was greater at leeward compared to windward reefs for a few days after spawning. These results suggest that embryonic development time and wind-driven surface currents affect larval dispersal and subsequent recruitment patterns at a local scale. Based on embryonic development time, some spawning corals are more likely to have higher rates of self-seeding than others. Our results predict that among spawning corals, local populations of acroporid and poritid corals, whose larvae potentially disperse over long distances and recruit in neighboring reefs, are more resilient to local disturbances than those of pocilloporid corals, whose recruitment relies upon local stock.

Seasonal variations in wave characteristics around a coral reef island, South Maalhosmadulu atoll, Maldives

Synchronous measurements of waves were made at six locations around a small reef platform island in the Maldives during both westerly and northeast monsoon conditions. Summary statistics of wave records indicated similar Hs values propagating onto windward and leeward reef surfaces and a distinct growth in wave height as waves shoal toward island shorelines. Waves up to 0.78 m were recorded impacting the island shoreline. Wave energy on the reef platform was strongly modulated by seasonal winds with wave energy during the westerly monsoon an order of magnitude larger than wave conditions in the northeast monsoon. Spectral analysis of wave records highlighted spatial differences in wave energy around the island. Windward reefs and shorelines are dominated by waves at wind and swell frequencies, whereas wind-wave energy is absent from leeward shorelines. Consequently, windward shorelines have up to twice the gross energy input than leeward shorelines. Results have significant implications for geomorphic processes. Longer duration and greater incident wave energy during the westerly monsoon has promoted higher growth of the western reef flat (+ 0.2 m) and more energetic shoreline runup processes have produced markedly higher western island ridges (+ 0.7 m). Incident shoreline wave processes are sufficient to entrain beach sediments during both monsoon periods although periods of active sediment mobilisation are constrained to mid- to high-tide stages. The windward–leeward gradient in shoreline wave energy is likely to drive littoral sediment flux. Seasonal modulation of the shoreline wave energy gradients account for observed oscillations in beach position around island shorelines. Large differences in incident wave energy between monsoons is considered to affect the rate of beach change around island shorelines rather than the total volumetric movement of island beaches.

Distribution and sediment production of large benthic foraminifers on reef flats of the Majuro Atoll, Marshall Islands

The distributions and population densities of large benthic foraminifers (LBFs) were investigated on reef flats of the Majuro Atoll, Marshall Islands. Annual sediment production by foraminifers was estimated based on population density data. Predominant LBFs were Calcarina and Amphistegina, and the population densities of these foraminifers varied with location and substratum type on reef flats. Both foraminifers primarily attached to macrophytes, particularly turf-forming algae, and were most abundant on an ocean reef flat (ORF) and in an inter-island channel near windward, sparsely populated islands. Calcarina density was higher on windward compared to leeward sides of ORFs, whereas Amphistegina density was similar on both sides of ORFs. These foraminifers were more common on the ocean side relative to the lagoon side of reef flats around a windward reef island, and both were rare or absent in nearshore zones around reef islands and on an ORF near windward, densely populated islands. Foraminiferal production rates varied with the degree to which habitats were subject to water motion and human influences. Highly productive sites (>103 g CaCO3 m−2 year−1) included an ORF and an inter-island channel near windward, sparsely populated islands, and a seaward area of a reef flat with no reef islands. Low-productivity sites (<10 g CaCO3 m−2 year−1) included generally nearshore zones of lagoonal reef flats, leeward ORFs, and a windward ORF near densely populated islands. These results suggest that the distribution and production of LBFs were largely influenced by a combination of natural environmental factors, including water motion, water depth, elevation relative to the lowest tidal level at spring tide, and the distribution of suitable substratum. The presence of reef islands may limit the distribution and production of foraminifers by altering water circulation in nearshore environments. Furthermore, increased anthropogenic factors (population and activities) may adversely affect foraminiferal distribution and production.

Holocene coral reef development under windward and leeward locations at Ishigaki Island, Ryukyu Islands, Japan

Coral reef growth is largely controlled by the wave energy associated with ocean swells and local winds. This growth has responded to changes in wave conditions that evolved in concert with Holocene sea-level changes. We analyzed Holocene facies of the Ibaruma and Fukido reefs of Ishigaki Island, southern Ryukyu Islands, in the context of temporal and spatial changes in wave conditions by comparing present-day coral assemblages and internal (fossil) reef facies. Four major coral assemblages that developed under different wave-energy conditions were recognized. Six cores recorded a Holocene reef sequence consisting of four sedimentary facies that differed in the relative volumes of four coral taxa: Acropora digitifera and Acropora hyacinthus, and lesser amounts of Favia stelligera and Montastrea curta. Holocene windward reef growth began at 7820 cal. years BP after flooding of the Pleistocene reef limestone surface; the ensuing reef growth kept up with the rapid sea-level rise. A vertical growth rate of 7.5 m/1000 years during reef nucleation and early growth stages decreased to 3.5 m/1000 years during the main stage of reef framework development. The uppermost part of the windward reef consisted of a very robust framework, unlike the open framework of the leeward reef. Ages indicated that the uppermost leeward reef was ca. 3000 years younger than the uppermost windward reef. These variations in facies development and timing were caused by differences in local wind-driven wave conditions.

Mapping Coral Reef Habitats in Southeast Florida Using a Combined Technique Approach

To create maps of nearshore benthic habitats of Broward County, Florida, from 0 to 35 m depth, we combined laser bathymetry, acoustic ground discrimination, subbottom profiling, and aerial photography data in a geographic information system (GIS). A mosaic of interpolated, sun-shaded, laser bathymetry data served as the foundation upon which acoustic ground discrimination, limited subbottom profiling and aerial photography, and groundtruthing data aided in interpretation of habitats. Mapping criteria similar to NOAA biogeographic Caribbean mapping were used to allow for a comparable output. Expert-driven visual interpretation outlined geomorphological features at a scale of 1 : 6000 with a minimum mapping unit of 1 acre. Acoustic data were then used to differentiate areas of similar geomorphology by their acoustic diversity into areas of high and low scatter, which could be equated to rugosity created by either the substratum or benthic fauna. Of the approximately 112 km2 mapped, 56.62 km2 were coral reef and colonized hard bottom (50.42%), 54.78 km2 were unconsolidated sediments (46.80%), and 0.43 km2 were other categories (2.78%). Three linear reef complexes exist. The outermost linear reef has a mature windward reef morphology including a drowned spur and groove system, which was absent on the other two reef lines. The acoustic ground discrimination and groundtruthing showed different benthic habitats on the outer vs. middle and inner reefs. Higher acoustic scatter could be related to taller benthos and more rugose substratum. A considerable amount of colonized pavement (nearshore hard grounds) was found inshore. The map of Broward County yielded a high overall accuracy of 89.6%, only slightly less than the photo-interpreted NOAA Caribbean maps (overall accuracy of 91.1%). User and producer accuracies within each category were also similar. The combined technique approach was effective and accurate, and similar methodology can be used in other areas where photo interpretation is not feasible because of turbidity or depth limitations.

Nearshore wave environments around a sandy cay on a platform reef, Torres Strait, Australia

Waves are the primary factor affecting reef-island morphology. This study examines spatial and temporal variations of wave characteristics in the nearshore around Warraber Island, a sandy cay on a platform reef in Torres Strait Australia, based on field measurements during the predominant southeasterly wind season. Water pressure was recorded simultaneously, and transformed to water surface wave spectra, at a location close to the reef edge and across the nearshore at different locations around the island. Wave environments off the reef were estimated based on wave characteristics measured at the reef-edge location and found to be primarily dominated by sea. Low and high wave-energy events were identified, based on wave energy level at the reef-edge location. Analysis of measured data at locations around the island shows that in general, waves on the windward side were larger and shorter in comparison with those on the leeward side. This spatial pattern was found to be more evident during high wave-energy events. The spatial variation of wave characteristics is influenced by relative energy contribution from three main spectral components (incident short-period waves <2.5 s, incident wind waves <8 s and infragravity waves, the principal component >8 s). During low wave-energy conditions, incident short-period waves are dominant. During high wave-energy conditions, wave spectra clearly show triple peaks on the windward side, but have only two peaks at infragravity and incident wind wave components on the leeward side. Incident wind wave components around the island are primarily a function of incident waves in seas off the reef. Development of infragravity waves is directly related to that of the incident wind waves. Incident short-period waves are generated locally on the reef flat and increase towards the island, particularly on the broad windward reef flat, and their characteristics can be estimated using fetch-limited and depth-limited wave models. Strong influence of water depth on wave characteristics was observed. Wave height and energy of the three wave components at all locations varied directly with changing water level on the reef, whereas wave periods show no clear trends, depending on location around the island. Wave conditions around the island during the northwesterly wind season were also estimated and are likely to be dominated by incident wind wave components.

Wave energy gradients across a Maldivian atoll: Implications for island geomorphology

Exposure to wave energy has been used to account for a range of ecological, geological and geomorphic processes in coral reef systems, but few attempts have been made to quantify spatial variations in energy at the atoll scale. This study presents results of measurements of wave energy on reef platforms across South Maalhosmadulu Atoll, Maldives and their implications for island geomorphology. The atoll has a perforated rim (37% effective aperture) and experiences predictable shifts in monsoon winds from the west (8 months) and northeast (4 months). Results show that wave energy affecting the atoll is considerably greater during the westerly monsoon. Atoll structure promotes significant changes in wave energy and wave characteristics across the atoll. Short period (3–8 s) monsoon-driven wave energy, which is significant on windward reefs, is dissipated on the peripheral reef network and the density of lagoonal patch reefs limits development of locally generated wind-wave energy across the lagoon. However, longer period swell (8–20 s) propagates through the lagoon to leeward reefs. A windward to leeward decay in wave energy is evident in the westerly monsoon, but not in the northeast monsoon, when long period swell (from the southwest) remains significant on western reefs. Net energy calculations that account for seasonal changes in wave energy across the atoll identify a steep west–east gradient that has geomorphic significance for island building. Western reefs are dominated by westerly flowing energy that is 4.5–7 times the total energy input elsewhere in the atoll. Wave energy on central reefs is balanced, whereas net energy on eastern reef platforms is dominated by eastward propagating waves. This steep energy gradient provides a physical explanation for the presence and distribution of islands on reef platforms across the atoll and provides quantitative support for the theory of Gardiner [Gardiner, J.S., 1903. The Fauna and Geography of the Maldives and Laccadives Archipelagoes. Cambridge University Press, London] to explain the prevalence of islands on the eastern atoll reef rim.

Colonization and growth of crustose coralline algae (Corallinales, Rhodophyta) on the Rocas Atoll

Crustose coralline algae play a fundamental role in reef construction all over the world. The aims fo this study were to identify and estimate the abundance of the dominant crustose coralline algae in shallow reef habitats, measuring their colonization, growth rates and productivity. Crusts sampled from different habitats were collected on leeward and windward reefs. Discs made of epoxy putty were fixed on the reef surface to follow coralline colonization and discs containing the dominant coralline algae were fixed on different habitats to measure the crusts' marginal growth. The primary production experiments followed the clear and dark bottle method for dissolved oxygen reading. Porolithon pachydermum was confirmed as the dominant crustose coralline alga on the Rocas Atoll. The non-cryptic flat form of P. pachydermum showed a faster growth rate on the leeward than on the windward reef. This form also had a faster growth rate on the reef crest (0.05 mm.day-1) than on the reef flat (0.01 mm.day-1). The cryptic protuberant form showed a trend, though not significant, towards a faster growth rate on the reef crest and in tidal pools than on the reef flat. Colonization was, in general, very slow as compared to that presented by other reef studies. P. pachydermum was a productive crust both in non-cryptic and cryptic habitats.