Weft Threads Research Articles

Comprehensive Approach to Evaluating the Macro- and Micropore Structures of Textile Materials

Introduction. The assessment of the macro- and microporous structure of textile fabrics is increasingly relevant for predicting their permeability, dyeability, and decorative potential. This evaluation plays a crucial role in determining the hygienic properties of clothing materials, optimizing dyeing and finishing processes, and assessing the filtration capabilities of technical fabrics in various dispersed media.Problem Statement. Challenges persist in accurately predicting the permeability of textile fabrics, as well as in determining the optimal parameters for dyeing and finishing processes.Purpose. The purpose of this research is developing a rapid, cost-effective, and accurate method to evaluate the macro- and microporous structure of textile materials is essential for assessing their permeability and suitability for dyeing and fi nishing processes.Materials and Methods. To study the porous structure of textile fabrics, we select the fabrics that varied in the thread structure — yarn produced by traditional and shortened methods — and in the fibrous composition. The first fabric is made from complex polyamide threads in a plain weave, the second from twill-woven polyester fiber yarn, and the third differs from the second in the structure of the weft thread. The macro- and microporous structures of these textile fabrics have been assessed by means of drying methods and sorption thermograms.Results. The micro- and macroporous structures of textile fabrics made from polyamide threads and polyester fibers have been compared. It has been found that the fabric made from polyamide threads exhibits a significantly higher sorption capacity than the fabric made from polyester fibers. This finding suggests that the fabrics made from polyamide threads possess a more developed microporous structure. This fact enhances their dyeing and decorating capabilities as compared with the fabrics made from polyester fibers. A comprehensive approach, utilizing both drying methods and sorption thermograms, has been employed to evaluate the macro- and microporous structures of the textile fabrics. Conclusions. The proposed comprehensive approach enables comparative studies of various textile materials, allowing for the refinement of technological processes for dyeing and decorating, as well as the identification of potential applications for these materials.

Optimal surface clothing with elastic nets

The clothing problem aims at identifying the shape of a planar fabric for covering a target surface in the three-dimensional space. It poses significant challenges in various applications, ranging from fashion industry to digital manufacturing. Here, we propose a novel inverse design approach to the elastic clothing problem that is formulated as a constrained optimization problem. We assume that the textile behaves as an orthotropic, nonlinear elastic surface with fibers distributed along its warp and weft threads, and we enforce mechanical equilibrium as a variational problem. The target surface is frictionless, except at its boundary where the textile is pinned, imposing a unilateral obstacle condition for the reactive forces at the target surface. The constrained optimization problem also accounts for an elongation condition of the warp and weft fibers, possibly with bounded shearing angle. We numerically solve the resulting constrained optimization problem by means of a gradient descent algorithm. The numerical results are first validated against known clothing solutions for Chebyshev nets, taking the limit of inextensible fibers. We later unravel the interplay between thread and shear stiffness for driving the optimal cloth shape covering the hemisphere and the hemicatenoid. We show how the metric of these target surfaces strongly affects the resulting distribution of the reaction forces. When considering the limit of covering the full sphere, we show how clothing with elastic nets allows to avoid the onset of singularities in the corresponding Chebyshev net, by developing corners at the cloth boundary.

Modelling Surface Roughness of 3/1 Twill Fabric Using Weft Yarn Count and Weft Thread Density

The surface roughness of fabric is one of the fabric properties that is used to evaluate the sensorial comfort of clothes. However, its objective evaluation requires sophisticated and expensive testing instruments and skilled testing expertise. Developing a predictive model is therefore an alternative approach to overcome such limitations. This study investigated a regression model to predict the surface roughness of 3/1 twill fabric using weft yarn count and weft thread density. Nine samples were produced by varying the weft yarn count and weft thread density at three different levels, while their surface roughness was determined using a Kawabata instrument (KES-FB4) under standard testing conditions. A two-factor predictive model equation was developed using design expert software. Based on the results and findings, the effects of count and density on the roughness of 3/1 twill fabric were found to be statistically significant for the developed model at a confidence interval of 95%. The model was tested by correlating the measured and predicted surface roughness values of 100% cotton 3/1 twill fabric. The results of the model test indicate a significant correlation (R2 = 0.9644) between the measured and predicted surface roughness values of 3/1 twill fabric, with a 95% confidence interval. Model validation was performed, and the study showed that the measured and predicted values of the surface roughness of 3/1 twill fabric have a 0.828 coefficient of determination (R2). This indicates that the surface roughness of 3/1 twill fabric can be predicted well by weft yarn count and weft thread density. This model can be thus used in textile industries and by research institutes for predicting the surface roughness of 3/1 twill fabrics in the new product development process.

ВИКОРИСТАННЯ МОДУЛІВ КОМП’ЮТЕРНОЇ ПРОГРАМИ KDAM ДЛЯ ДИНАМІЧНОГО АНАЛІЗУ БАТАННОГО МЕХАНІЗМУ ПРИ ФОРМУВАННІ БАГАТОШАРОВИХ ТКАНИН

In the work, using the KDAM computer program module, a dynamic analysis of the batten mechanism of a heavy loom in the production of multilayer technical fabrics was carried out. The computer module allows you to determine the projections and full reactions in the hinges of the batten mechanism at the time of the weft thread surf in the zone of formation of multilayer fabrics, taking into account the structure of protective layers, main power layers and the method of connecting layers to each other. The influence of the structure of multilayer fabrics on the magnitude of dynamic reactions in the hinges of the batan mechanism was established. Multi-layer technical fabrics are used for the production of power grabs for laying pipes of oil and gas pipelines. Pipes are delivered with factory insulation. These fabrics have a high density of the main threads in the cross section of the power grip. The main thread system consists of the warp threads of the protective layers, the warp threads of the power layers, and the warp threads that bind the layers together. The formation of an element of multilayered technical fabric takes place by wefting the weft thread in the working area. Taking into account the very significant tension of the threads of the base, the strength of the surf can reach significant indicators. In the process of surf, there is a shock impact on the batting mechanism of the weaving loom. The resulting dynamic reactions in the hinges need to be evaluated, namely how the structure of multilayer fabrics affects the magnitude of the dynamic reactions in the hinges of the baton mechanism. Changing the structure of the multilayer technical fabric allows to reduce the tension of the base of the protective layers and power layers, which will lead to a decrease in the magnitude of the surf force and, as a result, to a decrease in dynamic reactions in the hinges of the batten mechanism. This will significantly reduce the wear in hinge pairs and increase the durability of the mechanism. To solve the complex task of dynamic analysis of the batting mechanism during the formation of multilayer fabrics, it is necessary to use specialized software complexes. The use of special computer modules allows you to determine the projections and full reactions in the hinges of the batting mechanism at the moment of the weft thread in the zone of formation of multilayer fabrics, taking into account the structure of protective layers, main power layers and the method of connecting the layers together.

Investigating the properties of rubbing fastness in jute-cotton blended pigment-printed fabric

Jute and cotton, both being natural cellulosic fibers, can be blended together to create a sustainable fabric that offers a new addition to the market. In this particular study, the focus was on investigating the fastness properties of jute-cotton blended pigment printed fabric. Fastness properties are crucial for any colored fabric, including jute-cotton blended ones, as they determine the fabric's ability to retain its color and resist any changes caused by external factors. The study examined the rubbing fastness of five different jute-cotton blended pigment printed fabrics. Rubbing fastness refers to the fabric's resistance to color staining and color change when subjected to rubbing or friction. The results of the rubbing fastness tests were evaluated on a grey scale, and they ranged between 3 and 5, indicating varying degrees of staining and color change. Additionally, other important parameters such as Ends per Inch, Picks per Inch, Gram per Square Meter (GSM), and air permeability were measured for the jute-cotton blended pigment printed fabric samples. Ends per Inch and Picks per Inch refer to the number of warp and weft threads per inch, respectively, and they contribute to the fabric's overall density and strength. The GSM, which measures the weight of the fabric per square meter, ranged between 191 and 285 for the samples. Furthermore, the air permeability, which indicates the fabric's breathability, ranged from 614 m3/m2/h to 1628 m3/m2/h.

Development of Lurik Weaving Motive Designs with Coloured Weft Threads in Indonesia

Development of Lurik Weaving Motive Designs with Coloured Weft Threads in Indonesia

Analiza deformacionih karakteristika tkanih tekstilnih materijala u platnenom prepletaju

Deformations of woven materials occur in the process of forming fabrics into more complex textile structures, as well as during the exploitation of finished products. Several factors influence the deformation properties of textile materials. The key factors are the properties of the yarn used, the construction of the fabric and the density of the warp and weft threads. The anisotropic properties of woven materials impose the need to analyze the deformation in the direction of the warp and in the direction of the weft of fabric. In addition, the research includes the analysis of the deformation of woven materials at an angle of 45 ° in relation to the direction of the warp. The results of the research showed that increasing the density of the weft threads leads to an improvement in the characteristics at the limit of yielding and breaking in the direction of the weft and at an angle of 45 °. Based on the obtained results, dependencies were proposed that can be used to predict the deformation of woven textile materials in a plain weave using tensile force in the direction of the warp, in the direction of the weft and at an angle of 45 °.

New insights into the dyes of Central Asian ikat textiles

Central Asian ikat textiles are characterised by their bold and large abstract patterns, made up of vibrant colours with a characteristic “blurred edge” effect, which makes them some of the most recognisable fabrics worldwide. Eleven ikats from the collection of the National Museum of Asian Art, Smithsonian Institution (Washington, DC, USA) and six ikats from the collection of the British Museum (London, UK) were investigated by high pressure liquid chromatography coupled to diode array detector and high-resolution tandem mass spectrometry (HPLC-DAD-HRMS/MS) to identify the dyes and expand on recent research focused on the integration of synthetic dyes in ikat dyeing during the second half of the 19th century. The results confirmed that the palette of natural dyes includes cochineal (probably mostly from a local species native to central Asia) for red, larkspur (Delphinium semibarbatum) for yellow, and indigo for blue as the main dye sources. In some of the textiles, madder (Rubia tinctorum) for red and pagoda tree (Sophora japonica) for yellow were also detected as minor components mixed with cochineal and larkspur, respectively. Synthetic dyes, such as scarlet reds (C.I. 16150 and 16155), rose bengale (C.I. 45435), eosin (C.I. 45380), erythrosine (C.I. 45430), fuchsin (C.I. 42510/42520), methyl violet (C.I. 42535/42555), malachite green (C.I. 42000) and brilliant green (C.I. 42040) were detected in eight textiles. In three textiles, natural dyes were identified in the ikat-dyed silk warp threads and synthetic dyes in the red cotton weft threads, highlighting interesting mixtures of materials and textile-making practices. Natural yellow dyes were used in all textiles, even those for which all the other colours are synthetic. These results provide significant new information about the changes in ikat production that occurred during the 19th century in Central Asia.

The Potential of Double-Faced Polyester-Viscose Woven Fabric as a Porous Substrate for Direct-Coating and Multilayer Concept.

Textile-based sensors fabricated using the direct-coating method are the appropriate choice to meet the aspects of flexibility, non-invasiveness, and lightness for continuous monitoring of the human body. The characteristics of the sensor substrate are directly influenced by factors such as the type of weave, thread fineness, fabric density, and the type of polymeric constituent fibers. The fabric used as the sensor substrate, fabricated using the direct-coating method, must be capable of retaining the electrode paste solution, which has higher viscosity, on one surface of the fabric to avoid short circuits during the fabrication process. However, during its application, this fabric should allow the easy passage of analyte solutions with low viscosity as much as possible. Hence, an appropriate fabric construction is required to serve as the substrate for textile-based sensors to ensure the success of the fabrication process and the effectiveness of the resulting sensor's performance. The development of the structural design of the fabric to be used as a substrate for non-invasive biosensors with a multilayer concept is carried out by weaving and sewing processes utilizing polyester-viscose fibers. During the production process, variations are applied, such as weft yarn density, the characterization of wetting time, absorption rate, maximum wetted radius, spreading speed, and accumulative one-way transport index. The most suitable fabric for use as a substrate for non-invasive biosensors with a multilayer concept, such as in this research, is a fabric with a weft thread density of 70 strands per inch, along with the addition of an analyte transfer thread configuration.

Creation of new textile utilizing Nishijin’s hikibaku technique and exploring new applications in other industries

Nishijin is famous for its traditional technique of cutting Japanese paper to a thickness of 0.2 to 0.3 mm and weaving it with warp and weft threads. This technique is called ‘ hikibaku’. In the previous paper, we reported on the creation of a new textile with a new tactile feeling by using natural cowhide instead of Japanese paper used in hikibaku. In this paper, we describe the details of the automation of the hikibaku technique that created the new textile, and conduct a durability test of the newly produced textile using artificial leather, which is of stable quality, instead of natural cowhide, and discuss its new applications.

The integration between clinical care and population health is a priority for the health system.

Between the end of the 19th and the beginning of the 20th century the growth of scientific knowledge made it possible a wider understanding of disease mechanisms and promoted multiple government actions in several countries to improve urban hygiene, to ameliorate living conditions, and to enrich daily nutrition in order to better population health. However, during a few following decades, research progress and industrial development induced radical changes in medicine as new diagnostic tools and effective treatment capabilities became available to be administered to single patients for specific ailments. The individualized nature of these novel interventions rapidly took their control away from the public sphere into the domain of multiple bilateral relationships between patient and physician. A space was then created in which the contention between public health and clinical medicine took finally shape and the split between public health professionals - not always medical doctors - and physicians, became increasingly blatant: on one side those who cared for collective welfare on the other those who cared for individual patients. Here we still stand even if it is really difficult and poorly effective to imagine a divided health since each single patient and each health professional must constantly confront the constraints of public health policies, while public health measures are always kept at bay by individual compliance and their efficacy need to be constantly verified at an individual level. On the contrary a full integration between clinical medicine and population health is an actual priority of health planning, health policies implementation and health research as well as of practicing clinicians. Differences in issues, methods and approach cannot obviously be denied but these differences just represent the warp and weft threads of the same fabric, of a medicine which does not exist without their weaving and which grows with their development. A clinical population medicine is needed which enables professionals to operate within and outside the boundaries of their specialties to build a project of common health. A clinical population medicine in which persons and communities could found a way to socialize their health problems and to require individual as well as collective answers to their risks, their diseases and their worries. In such a way a different sense and a different meaning of its responsibility could possibly be restituted to a health system which needs to reestablish stronger ties with its constituency, a health system whose crisis depends on bureaucratization and inadequate resources as much as on its lack of sound and long-ranging perspectives.

Ancient Egyptian Painted Textile from the collection of R. de Rustafjaell

The paper represents the first detailed publication of the Ancient Egyptian painted textile of the New Kingdom from the Pushkin State Museum of Fine Arts, Moscow (I,1а 6113). Formerly it belonged to the R. de Rustafjaell Collection. The purpose of the paper is to introduce a museum object, which was previously known only from a brief description and an early 20th-century black-and-white photograph, into scholarly discourse. The textile belongs to a group of painted cloths (about 30 in total) of the late 18th and early 19th Dynasty (14–13 centuries B.C.). They all have scenes of worship of the goddess Hathor. These cloths were brought as votive offerings to Hathor into her shrine in Deir el-Bahri. On the Pushkin Museum textile, the goddess is depicted as a sacred cow. Seven donators face her: three men and four women. These persons were most likely the members of a single family (parents and their children). Technological analysis shows that the painted textiles from Deir el-Bahri were both of professional and domestic production. The rather low quality of the threads as well as poor workmanship (the tension of the warp and weft threads was poorly regulated, the end of the right edge was not even, the density of the cloth was not uniform, there were other weaving errors as well) suggest that the manufacture of the Pushkin Museum textile was not the work of a professional weaver. The painting, on the other hand, was obviously done in a workshop by professional artists.

Estimation of permeability properties of technologically developed jacquard fabrics

The study investigated how certain design parameters affect the permeability properties of jacquard fabrics. Six woven samples were made on the same cotton warp and with the same loom setting. The fabrics were made from two different types of weft yarns (cotton and Lyocell Clima), in two different pattern sizes (with larger and smaller monochrome areas), and two groups of double twill weaves (self-stitched double cloth, interchanging double cloth). We proved the importance of the size and distribution of the pattern/motif, the type of weave and the type of yarns used in the jacquard fabrics and the influence they have on the permeability properties in close relation to the aesthetic function. All patterns with interchanging double weave have significantly higher air permeability than patterns with self-stitched weave. For thermal conductivity, the influence of the raw material and the size of the pattern/motif is obvious. For fabrics with patterns with larger geometric areas, where the presence of weft threads on the surface is greater, the thermal conductivity is higher. The pattern size, on the other hand, does not affect the ultraviolet protection factor (UPF), unlike the raw material from which it is made.

Linear Model Equation for Prediction and Evaluation of Surface Roughness of Plain-Woven Fabric

Nowadays, evaluating fabric touch can be a great interest of industries to match the quality needs of consumers and parameters for the manufacturing process. Modeling helps to determine how structural parameters of fabric affect the surface of a fabric and also identify the way they influence fabric properties. Moreover, it helps estimate and evaluates without the complexity and time-consuming experimental procedures. In this research paper, the linear regression model was developed that was utilized for the prediction and evaluation of surface roughness of plain-woven fabric. The model was developed based on nine different half-bleached plain-woven fabrics with three weft Yarn counts 42 tex, 29.5 tex & 14.76 tex, and three weft thread densities (18 picks per c, 21ppc & 24 picks per c) and then the surface roughness of plain-woven fabric was tested by using Kawabata (KES-FB4) testing instrument. The findings reveal that the effects of count and density on the roughness of plain-woven fabric were found statistically significant at the confidence interval of 95%. The weft yarn count has a positive correlation with surface roughness values of plain-woven fabrics. On the other hand, pick density has a negative correlation with the surface roughness values of plain-woven fabrics. The correlation between measured surface roughness by KES-FB4 and calculated surface roughness by the model equation show how they are strongly correlated at 95% (R² of 0.97).

Reactive Printing and Wash Fastness of Inherent Flame Retardant Fabrics for Dual Use.

The possibility of reactive printability on protective flame—resistant fabrics, varied in composition of weft threads and weave was investigated. In addition, the wash fastness of printed samples was analyzed. The functional properties of fabrics were assessed by measuring of the Limiting Oxygen Index (LOI). Printing was performed with two printing pastes varied in thickeners and two dyestuff concentrations. The samples were analyzed by microscopic imaging using digital microscope and spectrophotometric measurement before and after the five washing cycles. The results confirmed the printability of FR inherent fabrics specified through fine colored effects and optimal wash fastness.

Weft Computation of Endek Weaving

Endek is a textile produces in Bali with a single ikat technique, specifically weft ikat. Weft ikat means that the pattern is created or drawn on the weft threads before ikat or tying process. The weft threads are transferred into a frame; a frame consists of tens to hundreds of bundles or called traditionally as bulih. Drawing a pattern on a frame requires special expertise as the pattern maker has to translate a two-dimensional pattern into a shape that is distorted on the wide side. Indirectly, this special requirement confines the pattern maker as they have to visualize a distortion shape to be able to draw in the frame. To provide easiness in design exploration, providing various templates and multiplier to automatically distort the template are substantial. Therefore, understanding the manual process on site is important before simulating the formula of weft computation including are templates and multiplier. With this computation, the pattern makers or anyone who has an enthusiast in designing Endek patterns may involve in the design process.

Experimental method for determining the deformation of warp threads on looms

There is a large body of theoretical and experimental research aimed at determining the warp thread deformation and tension. Analytical solutions and mathematical models of the stressed state of the warp and weft threads in the formation of fabric were proposed. In almost all studies, the deformation of the warp thread was determined separately when shedding and beating the weft. There is an experimental method for determining the deformation of warp threads, which makes it possible to eliminate some of the shortcomings inherent in the theoretical techniques. However, that method has some drawbacks, such as the low accuracy of strain measurement and the complexity of certain measuring operations, which leads to an increase in the time spent on the experiment. This paper reports a study that addresses those shortcomings by proposing to photograph the object being measured using a digital camera connected to a computer system to print the image. An electronic caliper that is used to measure the deformation of warp threads on printing paper takes into consideration a fraction of a millimeter when measuring. The proposed method makes it possible to determine with sufficient accuracy and speed the deformation of warp threads in the elastic feed system of the loom, as well as allows visual control over the changes in the deformation of warp threads in the machine. The use of this method makes it possible to reduce the time of measuring the deformation of one thread from 30‒40 seconds to 5‒7 seconds, which is 5‒6 times less than that in the existing one and provides measurement accuracy to at least one dozen mm. The results of this work could be applied to determine the warp thread deformation and tension on looms when making the main weave fabrics in order to reduce the uneven tension of the main threads, increase labor productivity, and improve the quality of the fabric.

Dizajn i karakterizacija Seersucker tkanina na Tencelu

Seersucker fabric design features a new combination of fabric structures that can also be used in various yarns based on sustainable fibers. Such fabric structures attract attention mainly due to their comfort properties, as well as easy-care clothing. One of the most commonly used regenerated fibers is Tencel, which is also known as lyocell fiber. Tencel is produced by using eucalyptus trees. Tencel has a number of applications, such as denim fabrics, pants, t-shirts, silky underwear, etc. It is also important to note that Tencel fiber-based new design approaches based on Tencel fibers are gaining attention in the context of circular design thinking. In this study, the effect of the same blend ratio of Tencel on different puckering surface designs was used, and the key properties of the designed fabrics were tested and analyzed. The principal objective is to apply the properties of Tencel fibers to improve the structural comfort of seersucker fabrics. The manufacturing process of the designed fabrics was optimized after the initial tests with the settings of the loom and the number of warp and weft threads. After 30 different process combinations, 6 different fabrics were selected for production. The structural properties of the 6 different patterns were successfully standardized and their structural properties were examined.

청양춘포짜기의 전통기술 재현과 전승의 대안

Chunpo is a woven textile with ramie threads in the weft and silk threads in the warp. Cheongyang Chunpo is registered as Intangible Cultural Heritage of Chungcheongnam-do and the techniques preserved. However, its traditional techniques are no longer conducted for more than 20 years, and its’ traditional technique succession has stopped. Chunpo weaving consists of the silk-related weaving process, the Mosi-related weaving process, and Chunpo’s character. Chunpo weaving’s main character is its yellow starch on silk warp during warping process to make its finish vivid yellow color from gardenia seed dyed starching process. For the revival of Chunpo traditional weaving, reeling silk cocoon techniques and yellow starching process plus traditional loom weaving silks are essential points to achieve. For Mosi threads, Hansan Mosi threads can be used, and for silk reeling techniques, Doosan village, which is silk weaving National Intangible Cultural Heritage can be acquired. Also for traditional loom weaving techniques can be acquired from Doosan village. Through this study and weaving trials from 3 ways, it is proved or favorable to success Cheongyang Chunpo’s traditional weaving techniques to be transmitted afterward. The first trial was in Cheongyang, the second trials were in Doosan silk weaving village, and the researcher did the third. Above all, weaving Chunpo in Doosan village or using Doosan silk weaver’s skill and after transmission from Doosan to Cheongyang would be the best and practical solution for Cheongyang Chunpo traditional technique revival.

Experimental determination of the wave height of the base and yarns in the tissue and a new method for measuring the tissue thickness without contact

In many spinning and weaving processes, fibers and threads are bent. To be more precise: in the textile industry there is no technological process in which fibers, threads or textiles do not pass through a curved surface. Therefore, this article highlights the research work on a new method of contactless determination of the wave height and thickness of the warp and weft threads in the fabric using the capabilities of information and communication technologies. Experiments of research work are considered on the example of crêpe de Chine fabric.