Textile Remains Research Articles

The usage of AgNPs/Klucel G Nanocomposites And Some Conventional Materials in The Conservation of Archaeological Linen Textile Remains

The usage of AgNPs/Klucel G Nanocomposites And Some Conventional Materials in The Conservation of Archaeological Linen Textile Remains

Tracing the biographies of textiles in the transition of medieval to modern times: Wool fabrics and brigandines from an Iberian castle

Findings of archaeological textiles and fibres in Northern Iberia are extremely rare. The occurrence of a set of textile fragments, dated between the 14th and 16th centuries CE at the Pambre castle (Palas de Rei, Lugo, Spain) is exceptional. The original stone roof of the southeastern tower was intact. The dark, cold and moist conditions inside the tower favoured the preservation of a unique series of waterlogged textile remains. In addition, a set of pseudomorphs preserved by mineral replacement were recovered from the east edge of the north wing in the main hall of the castle. Fibres have been identified using optical and scanning electron microscopy (SEM), and they have been chemically characterised using Energy Dispersive X-Ray Spectroscopy (EDX). We also performed analytical pyrolysis-GC-MS (Py-GC-MS) and thermally assisted hydrolysis and methylation (THM-GC-MS) of the wool fabrics and pseudomorphs to assess their state of degradation and the presence of chemical markers associated to the use of these textile remains. High performance liquid chromatography with diode array detection (HPLC-DAD-MS) and ultra-high performance liquid chromatography coupled to high-resolution mass spectrometry (UHPLC-HRMS/MS) analysis were applied on wool fabrics to identify the chemical markers of dyes but without success. To expand the information related to raw material identification and the technical aspects of the fabrics, further evidence such as adherences identified as opal phytoliths, seeds, and insect remains associated to wool fabrics were examined. These findings offer a unique glimpse into the clothing dated to the end of the Medieval period, and its life-cycle. Wool scraps were probably part of at least two different garments, whereas the mineralised textiles probably formed part of at least two brigandines which were made of bast fibres, flax, or hemp.

Verdslige genstande i et sakralt landskab

Secular artefacts in a sacral landscapeTextile production at a Pre-Roman/Early Roman Iron Age place of assembly
 The locality of Stavsager Høj, situated north of the village of Fæsted in southern Jutland, was discovered during metal detector surveys in 2018. In addition to numerous metal finds and magnificent artefacts, the locality also offered an insight to more mundane materials: spindle whorls made from reused potsherds. These recycled artefacts are the primary focus of this article, which illuminates textile production around a pre-Christian assembly site. Four vase-shaped bronze spindle whorls are also presented and analysed together with the reused potsherds to examine the character of the local textile craft. Overall, they testify to a versatile production of textiles within the multi-phased settlement. The debate surrounding repurposed potsherds and their use as spindle whorls is also discussed. A further perspective on textile tools is provided by two tangible textile remains: a textile imprint on a fragment of pottery and a piece of preserved textile on a bronze chape. These support the diverse and broad production span demonstrated by the tools and provide an insight to a textile craft that included the production of both fine, lightweight cloth and coarser fabrics. Though the number of textile tools found at Stavsager Høj is rather modest, they do illuminate the textile craft in a landscape of an elitist and sacral character.

Identifying indigenous bast microfibers for archaeological research in East Asia

East Asia, particularly China, has a long history of fiber production. Before cotton was introduced in historic times, bast fibers from various indigenous plants dominated fiber technologies. Previous studies on early fiber technology primarily relied on indirect evidence because actual fiber and textile remains are extremely rare in archaeological contexts. Such materials tend to decay quickly in normal environmental conditions, a situation that negatively impacts on our knowledge of the origin and diversity of fiber technology in the past. However, archaeologists have often observed microfiber remains when conducting microfossil analysis (such as starch and phytoliths) on artifact residues and soils, indicating a great potential for the study of ancient fibers from archaeological contexts. In this study, we first analyze morphological features of five modern bast fibers indigenous to East Asia, including hemp, ramie, kudzu vine, velvet leaf, and paper mulberry, to create a reference database; then we discuss the applicability of these features to identification of archaeological microfiber remains.

Tales from Ginderup Mound in Thisted County, Denmark

The preservation of organic and human remains in Early Nordic Bronze Age mounds (1700 BCE -1100 BCE) permits new provenance work on this important period. Studies have shown that different mobility/non-mobility patterns were exercised by elite women during this time. To extend the database, we conducted strontium isotope analyses of the enamel from the second and third molars from the elite female grave from Ginderup in Thisted County, Denmark. Among other items, this grave included the textile remains of a possible corded skirt or fringed blanket. We complemented analyses of this woman’s enamel with strontium isotope analyses of the first molar from Grave B as well as osteological analysis of the individuals from Early Nordic Bronze Age Graves A, B and C.
 Our results revealed that the strontium isotope ratios obtained from the woman wearing a possible corded skirt yielded one local ratio (M2) and one non-local ratio (M3). The results from Grave B yielded a ratio which falls within the local baseline of present-day Denmark. Our results suggest that the Ginderup Woman was probably of local origin, but that she also was repeatedly mobile during her life. These data are further evidence for the Nordic Bronze Age’s complex socio-dynamics.

Textile remains of the Avar cemetery at Tiszafüred-Majoros

Textile objects, elements of clothing placed in graves are seldom conserved and poorly researched. However, they inform us not only about clothing itself but also about other functions of textiles. Systematic collection and examination of fabrics may shed light on the textiles used by people of a certain region and period and what is more, import textiles may be identified. The study presents the catalogue and analysis of the textile remains excavated in Tiszafüred-Majoros, the largest Avar period cemetery in today eastern Hungary (mid-7th to 9th century AD).

Bronze Age Woollen Textile Production in England: A Consideration of Evidence and Potentials

Responding to recent advances in knowledge about the first arrival of woollen sheep in Europe and linked investigations of textile remains on the Continent, this paper argues that our insight into the role of wool in the English Bronze Age needs rethinking. We argue that the relevant questions are: when did the procurement of and working with wool become a routine aspect of settlement life, and did the change from plant fibres to wool affect communities differently? The paper outlines some of the core research questions we need to consider and points to the necessity of triangulating between the evidence provided by textiles, faunal remains, and textile working tools to reach more comprehensive insights. The paper ends by indicating a further research question – namely whether the apparent differences in the ‘wool economy’ in different parts of Bronze Age Europe may suggest differences in ‘body politics’.

Reconstructing fabrics used in the clothing of “Kukruse Woman” from the late 12th century: A craftsperson’s perspective

This article focuses on the reconstruction of fabrics based on archaeological finds. When a woman’s grave from the late twelfth century AD (Kukruse Burial VI) was unearthed at Kukruse in eastern Estonia, archaeologists involved experts from various fields in studying the materials that were found in the grave – from natural scientists to textile researchers. A set of clothing was reproduced from what was found in the grave of the “Kukruse Woman”.
 The grave that served as the basis for this study featured plentiful amounts of jewellery and bronze embellishments, but textile remains were extremely scarce. It was for this reason that, when it came to weaving the fabrics, other archaeological textile finds that date back to the same period had to be relied on to a degree. The aim was to achieve a visual resemblance to the historic fabric. When weaving the woollen fabrics, the yarn used was from the wool of an ancient Estonian sheep breed, the native Kihnu type, which was spun in a way that is customary for contemporary woollen mills. In order to obtain the required shade of blue, synthetic dyes were used on the yarn. The tools used met the needs of a modern weaver and increased the efficiency of the work. This article interprets handicraft skills on the basis of the crafter’s personal experience, primarily from a weaver’s perspective. Reconstructing an ancient fabric includes not only reproducing the item itself, but also the process of studying and recreating inherited skills that had since been lost.
 Keywords: woollen fabric, reconstructing clothing, archaeological textile finds, weaving

Średniowieczne kabłączki skroniowe z pozostałościami nitek z Łowicza, woj. łódzkie

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Fragmenty tkaniny wełnianej odkrytej w Piotrkowie Trybunalskim, woj. łódzkie

In 2005, in Piotrkow Trybunalski, at 4 Pijarska Street, rescue excavations were conducted by Dr Janusz Pietrzak from the University of Łodź. During the archaeological works, remains of a woollen sack were found. Owing to the fact that both the textile and seeds were discovered in one layer, it is justifiable to assume that the sack was used to store loose materials. The discussed textile remains were found in the layer of an object dated to the period from the mid-16th o the early 17th century.In the 16th century, Piotrkow Trybunalski was one of the leading centres of broadcloth industry in the area of the Sieradz Voivodship. At that time, broadcloth production in Piotrkow Trybunalski was organized within a guild. In order to protect the selling markets, a ban was introduced in 1532 that prevented foreign merchants from selling cloth of worse quality than the one produced by local craftsmen. Actions intended to control the trade in the town were mainly targeted against rural producers. The analyzed textile could be described as of simple execution. The material for the production of the Piotrkow sack is sheep wool. The textile’s weave is tabby. Additionally, partly preserved brocading is found on two fragments of the textile. It cannot be excluded that the discussed textile remains are remains of a sack that was produced of a reused piece of garment, for instance, a coat.

The Hallstatt Textiles from the Bi-ritual Cemetery in Świbie

Textile production during the Hallstatt period was an integral part of everyday life of societies living in Poland. However, discoveries of fabrics are very rare. Textile remains from this period survived primarily in the skeletal bi-ritual graves in the Silesia voivodship. Among preserved fragments of organic finds, remains of clothes and elements of accessories can be distinguished. The best-preserved and well-studied textile remains come from the cemetery in Świbie, Gliwice district. The locality was accidentally discovered in 1930s, but regular excavations started there thirty years later. As a result of the archaeological works, 576 cremation urns and skeletal graves were explored providing a rich set of materials. Grave goods were local products, as well as imports from Southern and Western Europe. Sixty three graves contained remains of textiles. The majority of the surviving fabrics adhered to metal outfits. In addition, research encountered woven tape remains, braided ribbons, threads, and strings. The material acquired from the cemetery in Świbie is the largest textile collection from the Hallstatt period discovered in Poland. It waited in a museum warehouse until the year 2015 when the Institute of Archaeology and Ethnology of the Polish Academy of Sciences in Łódź initiated further studies. Despite the fact that most fragments were small and mineralised, all the undertaken analyses led to a better understanding of textile production in the Hallstatt period in Poland with its innovative and traditional elements.

At the Crossroads of Textile Cultures: Textile Production and Use at the South Italian Archaic Site of Ripacandida

Textiles are seldom included within socioeconomic interpretative frameworks of the ancient northern Mediterranean region, although several recent studies have begun to address this lacuna. The Archaic/ Classical site of Ripacandida (Basilicata), located in the southern Apennines, has yielded both textiles and textile tools, providing an unprecedented opportunity to examine textile production and use at an indigenous south Italian site. This study presents the results of the complementary analyses of mineralised textile remains and textile tools (spindle whorls and loom weights) found in the cemetery of Ripacandida. The unusual combination of the Greek textile weave (weft-faced tabby) and a characteristic Italic tablet-woven border in two fragments attests to a mixed textile culture. The (to date) unique situation at Ripacandida enables us to reflect on the role of textiles in cultural contact contexts: the way in which textile cultures and their elements met and were mixed or kept separate in south Italy and beyond; the extent to which textile production was socially and economically embedded in a small indigenous community of south Italy; and the role of textiles and textile production as an expression of indigenous-Greek interaction.

Dressed for Ritual, Dressed for Life. A Migration-Period Grave from Sande in Norway

A RICHLY FURNISHED GRAVE from the migration period in Norway is our starting point for a discussion of the impact of dress in life and death. The Sande farm is situated on the southern tip of Norway on the Lista peninsula, an area renowned for its many rich finds from the migration period.44 Helliksen 2006, 7; Lund 2008, 8–10. A high-status grave from Sande in Vest-Agder was excavated in 2005 and was found to be lavishly equipped, not least in terms of jewellery items and dress fittings. Some remarkable textile remains were also preserved. The types of adornment and their position in the grave strongly suggest this was the burial of a woman, while the jewellery and textiles and their composition, style and appearance, all offer valuable information on the story of the individual and the dress code of the time. This article offers the first detailed exploration of this burial and its assemblage and an in-depth discussion of the surviving textile fragments and dress equipment as evidence of a form of dress and display that may have operated in life and death.

12. sajandi lõpu Kukruse „memme“ rõivakangaste rekonstrueerimise lugu käsitöölise vaatenurgast / Reconstructing Fabrics Used in the Clothing of “Kukruse Woman” from the Late 12th Century: a Crafter’s Perspective

This article focuses on the reconstruction of fabrics based on archaeological finds. When a woman’s grave from the late twelfth century AD (Kukruse Burial VI) was unearthed at Kukruse in eastern Estonia, archaeologists involved scientists from various fields in the study of the materials that were found in the grave – from natural scientists to textile researchers. A set of clothing was reproduced from what was found in the “Kukruse Woman” grave.The grave that served as the basis for this study featured plentiful amounts of jewellery and bronze embellishments, but textile remains were extremely scarce. It was for this reason that when it came to weaving the fabrics some reliance had to be placed on other archaeological textile finds that dated back to the same period. The aim was to achieve a visual resemblance to the historic fabric. When weaving the woollen fabrics, use was made of yarn from the wool of an ancient Estonian sheep breed, the native Kihnu type, which was spun in a way that is customary for contemporary woollen mills. In order to obtain the required shade of blue, synthetic dyes were used on the yarn. The tools used met the needs of a modern weaver and increased the efficiency of the work. This article interprets handicraft skills on the basis of the crafter’s personal experience, primarily from a weaver’s perspective. Reconstructing an ancient fabric includes not only reproducing the item itself, but also the process of studying and recreating inherited skills that had since been lost.

Disclosing a crypt: Microbial diversity and degradation activity of the microflora isolated from funeral clothes of Cardinal Peter Pázmány

A crypt can be considered as a particular environment where different microbial communities contribute to decomposition of organic materials present inside during a long interval of time. The textile remains of the funeral clothes (biretta and tunic) of Cardinal Pázmány, an important historic figure dead in Bratislava the 19th March 1637, conserved in this kind of environment were subjected to microbial investigation. The sampling comprised three different approaches and the use of various kinds of cultivation media. Two different PCR-based clustering methods, f-ITS and f-CBH, were employed in order to select the bacterial and fungal microfloras which were identified in a second step by the 16S rRNA and ITS sequencing respectively. The isolated microflora was tested for its proteolytic, keratinolytic and cellulolytic activities and for its ability to grow on Fibroin agar medium. The combination of cultural, molecular and biodegradative assays was able to isolate and characterize a bacterial community composed mainly by members of the phyla Firmicutes and Actinobacteria. The fungal community appeared more diversified, together with several Penicillium and Aspergillus strains, members belonging to the species Beauveria bassiana, Eurotium cristatum, Xenochalara juniperi, Phialosimplex caninus and Myriodontium keratinophilum were isolated. Bacteria, especially the Bacillus members, showed their strong ability to degrade keratin and gelatin and a large portion of them was able to growth on Fibroin agar. The fungal isolates displayed a widespread cellulolytic activity and fibroin utilization, although they possessed a weaker and slower proteolytic and keratinolytic properties respect to bacterial counterpart. The present study can be considered perhaps as the first or among the few microbial investigations which treated the textile biodegradation from such unusual environment.

The Emperor’s New Clothes: Textiles, Gender and Mesopotamian Foundation Figurines

This paper concentrates on two groups of Mesopotamian foundation figurines bearing textile remains and impressions, one found at Tello (ancient Girsu), the other at Nippur (ca. 2100–2000 BCE). Addressing this material from the perspective of gender studies, two main topics are analysed. On the one hand, some aspects related to the production and consumption of the textiles adhering to some of the foundation figurines are addressed, as these facets are not usually mentioned when foundation deposits are analysed. On the other hand, the possible masculine or feminine identities of the figurines are considered. The article concludes with a discussion of the visibility of women’s work and the influence of Western gender preconceptions in the analysis of the archaeological record, particularly when considering foundation figurines.

16~17세기 출토염직품의 염료와 매염제 분석

출토복식은 조선시대 복식문화를 알 수 있는 중요한 자료들이다. 그 중에서도 염직물들은 복식의 문화사적 연구뿐만 아니라 보존과학적 연구 및 유물복원을 위해 꼭 필요한 자료들이다. 그러나 매장환경에서 오랜 기간 동안 영향을 받으면서 색은 변퇴색되었으며 발굴 후에도 점차 퇴색되어가므로 본래의 색을 추정하기가 어렵다. 이에 본 연구에서는 적색, 황색, 자색, 청색의 천연염색포 표준시료를 제작하여 고속액체크로마토그래피(High Performance Liquid Chromatography with Photodiode Array Detector, 이하 HPLC-PDA)에 의해 분석하고, 같은 방법으로 출토염직물에 남아있는 색소를 추출하여 분석함으로써 출토직물의 염료분석을 시행하였으며 당시의 색을 추정하기 위해 전자현미경(Scanning electron microscope 이하 SEM)에 연결된 에너지 분산형 원소분석장치(Energy Dispersive X-ray Spectroscopy 이하 EDX)를 이용하여 매염제 분석을 시행하였다. 본 실험을 위해 16~17세기 출토직물편으로 대전시 송천동 출토 은진송씨 송문창 출토직물 2점과 대전시 목달동 출토 여산송씨 송희종 출토직물 1점 등 3점을 사용하였으며, 분석결과 alizarin, purpurin, indigo, ellagic acid 등의 색소가 검출되어 꼭두서니-쪽의 중복염색, 꼭두서니 염색, 석류-쪽의 중복염색 등의 결과를 얻을 수 있었으며 매염제로는 모든 유물에서 Al이 검출되었다. Excavated textiles provide very important research data on the costume culture of the Joseon dynasty. In particular, dyed textiles are indispensable for textile conservation research and for restoration of remains as well as for general costume culture research. Unfortunately, a prolonged burial environment causes the colors to change and gradually fade after excavation. Therefore, it is very difficult to identify the original color. In this study, natural dyed samples of red, yellow, purple and blue were prepared and analyzed using HPLC-PDA. Dyes of colorants extracted from excavated textile remains were analyzed by HPLC. In addition, mordants were analyzed using (SEM-EDX) in order to estimate the original color. The 16~17th Century's three samples were analyzed, sample 1, and 2 from Eunjin Song's Song Mun-Chang excavated at the Songchon-dong in Daejeon, and sample 3 from Yeosan Song's Song, Hee-Jong excavated at the Mokdal-dong in Daejeon. From the HPLC results, alizarin, purpurin, and indigo were detected on sample 1, alizarin and purpurin on sample 2, ellagic acid and indigo on sample 3. Therefore they were dyed with madder and indigo (sample 1), madder (sample2), pomagranted and indigo (sample 3). Al mordant was identified on three samples.

천연염색포의 습식세척에 의한 색상변화

조선시대 양반가의 장례시 매장방식은 회곽묘제를 사용하였으며, 그 유물들이 현대에 형태를 유지한 채로 출토되는 경우가 종종 있다. 그러나 그 내부에서 발견되는 섬유유물들은 예전에는 염직물이었을 것으로 예상되나 오랫동안 시즙과 수분에 의해 오염되어 고유의 색상 및 물성에 변화를 일으킬 수 있다. 이러한 오염은 출토 후에도 계속적으로 유물의 변퇴색 및 열화에 영향을 미칠 것으로 예상되므로 적합한 세척이 요구된다. 따라서 본 연구는 습식세척 후 출토염직물의 색변화를 최소화할 적합한 세정조건을 조사하기 위하여 적색계 7종, 청색계 1종, 황색계 6종, 녹색계 4종, 자색계 4종의 천연염색 염색포(견과 면)을 만들어서 이를 돈육과 함께 6개월간 냉장보관한 후 꺼내어 물, 음이온계면활성제(SDS), 비이온계면활성제(TritonX-100), 천연계면활성제(Saponin) 등 4종의 세정액를 이용하여 <TEX>$20^{\circ}C$</TEX>와 <TEX>$40^{\circ}C$</TEX>의 온도에서 습식세척하여 염직품들의 색상변화에 대한 영향을 조사하였다. 그 결과 색상의 변화는 세정온도, 섬유소재, 세정제, 이용한 염료의 종류에 따라 차이를 나타내었다. In the Chosun period, the noble class usually buried the dead bodies in the lime-covered tomb. Recently their costumes are excavated while maintaining the shape. However, the textiles discovered from the inside have been degradated by a body and moisture. To conserve these textiles one of the most important thing is how to clean these textiles right after the excavation. The purpose of this study is to examine the effects of wet cleaning to minimize the color change of textile remains. For this purpose, silk and cotton were dyed with natural dyes (7 red, 1 blue, 6 yellow, 4 green and 4 purple colors), then they were kept for 6 months with pork meat at <TEX>$10^{\circ}C$</TEX>, and were washed by four cleaning solutions (water, anionic surfactant (SDS), non-ionic surfactant (Triton X-100) and natural surfactant (saponin)) at <TEX>$20^{\circ}C$</TEX> and <TEX>$40^{\circ}C$</TEX>. The color change was evaluated by color difference (<TEX>${\Delta}E$</TEX>) between non-treated and after washed samples. From the results, it was found that the color changes are significantly different depending on the washing temperature, textile material, the cleaning agents and the type of dyes.

Moundville: Forgotten Textile Fragments Reveal the Past

The multi-mound site of Moundville in west central Alabama provided the samples, dated to Moundville II (ad 1250-1400) and III (ad 1400-1550) phases. Mound W, Mound R and the Rhodes site within the palisaded area provided textile remains. Textile fragments from Mound W and R are charred and small in size. The Rhodes site provided a copper breastplate with textile pseudomorphs. The fragments provide a wealth of information about technology, their social significance and use, and aspects of ritual and cultural values through dispersal. Methodology included nondestructive physical analysis of samples, light microscopy, and environmental scanning electron microscopy. Chemical analysis spectra were collected using X-ray energy dispersive spectroscopy. It was evident that the fibers from the charred samples were of two types of plant tissue, xylem and sclerenchyma. Fiber type was not determinable for the Rhodes specimen. Even though the yarn and fabric structures were comparable between the specimens collected from domestic areas and the elite burial, the fineness of the yarns that were associated with the breastplate as a prestige good indicate a refining process used for the fibers. As indicated by the specimens available, there were boundaries between residential and apparently moderate elite burials at Moundville.

New archaeobotanical finds of Isatis tinctoria L. (woad) from Iron Age Gaul and a discussion of the importance of woad in ancient time

Although chemical analyses of textile remains have traced the use of Isatis tinctoria L. (woad) back to the Neolithic period, archaeobotanical remains of the plant are scarce in north-western Europe, especially in France. A new discovery in the rural settlement of Roissy, north of Paris, raises the question of local cultivation of woad from at least the fifth–fourth century b.c. (La Tene A/B1) in northern Gaul. The plant assemblage comes from the filling of a storage pit, which also included a wide variety of cultivated plants. These data represent a valuable contribution to the study of the circumstances of the adoption of woad as a new crop.