Sun Protection Factor Values Research Articles

Examining Particle Size of Inorganic Active Ingredients within Sunscreens Using Dynamic Light Scattering

With the advancements in broad-spectrum sunscreens and the recent bans on benzene-based sunscreens due to their environmental toxicity, there has been a push toward broad-spectrum sunscreens containing inorganic active ingredients. In this study, a procedure was developed to analyze the particle size and size distribution of inorganic active ingredients, titanium dioxide (TiO2) and/or zinc oxide (ZnO), of sunscreens with sun protection factor (SPF) values ranging from 15 to 50 using dynamic light scattering (DLS). These inorganic components are often engineered as nanoparticles in order to reduce visibility on the skin and retain UV scattering. Research suggests that the use of smaller nanoparticles to increase the efficacy of the inorganic filters may also be toxic to humans if it becomes permeable to the skin. This methodology allowed undergraduate students to work hands-on with particle sizing and compare sunscreen samples to nanopowder and dispersion standards using the effect of the hydrodynamic diameter. Students found that, due to agglomeration, the particle sizes for the nanopowder standards could exceed the manufacture’s labeled size when dispersed in solution, which they then compared with their sunscreen data. The results also showed that some sunscreens had two distinct layers at the end of sample preparation, which could be correlated to the matrix components within the sunscreens. This study is intended for undergraduate analytical students and can be altered using the potential variations and scanning electron microscopy (SEM) with electron dispersive spectroscopy (EDS) to create a more challenging upper-level lab and allow for instrumentation comparisons.

Mycelial culture extracts of selected wood-decay mushrooms as a source of skin-protecting factors

ObjectivesThis study analyzed the content of substances with cosmetologic properties in the extracts obtained from the mycelial cultures of Ganoderma applanatum, Laetiporus sulphureus, and Trametes versicolor. The effect of these extracts on the inhibition of tyrosinase and hyaluronidase was determined, and their values of sun protection factor (SPF) were calculated.ResultsThe total amount of phenolic acids in the extracts ranged from 2.69 (G. applanatum) to 10.30 mg/100 g dry weight (T. versicolor). The total amount of sterols was estimated at 48.40 (T. versicolor) to 201.04 mg/100 g dry weight (L. sulphureus), and that of indoles at 2.90 (G. applanatum) to 16.74 mg/100 dry weight (L. sulphureus). Kojic acid was determined in the extracts of L. sulphureus and G. applanatum. It was observed that L. sulphureus extract caused dose-dependent inhibition of hyaluronidase, while all the extracts inhibited tyrosinase. The extract of G. applanatum exhibited an SPF value of ~ 9.ConclusionsThe results showed that the mycelial cultures of the studied species may be used as an alternative source of substances used in cosmetology.

Influence of physical–mechanical properties on SPF in sunscreen formulations on ex vivo and in vivo skin

The sun protection factor (SPF) is related to the selected UV filters. The objective of this study was to evaluate and compare the rheological behavior and texture profile of two sunscreen formulations and to correlate these data with the obtained SPF values. Two formulations (F1 and F2) were developed with the same type and amount of UV filters – whereby one of them also contained ethoxylated lanolin as additional film former (F2). Their rheological behavior, texture profile and in vitro and in vivo SPF were analyzed. The film-forming properties were evaluated by skin profilometry and diffuse reflectance spectroscopy. The structures of the formulations were examined by two-photon tomography combined with fluorescence lifetime imaging, and the penetration profile into the stratum corneum was investigated by tape stripping. The formulation with lanolin presented lower and constant values for physical–mechanical parameters, with a higher and better reproducible SPF. Both formulations did not penetrate the viable epidermis. In conclusion, formulations with better surface deposition on the skin surface can influence the film formation and, consequently, improve the SPF. These findings are important to improve the efficacy of sunscreen formulations and reduce the addition of UV filters.

Physical Stability Test Sunscreen Gel Extracts Blackberry Fruit (rubus fruticosus l.)

Blackberry (Rubus sp.) fruit contains high levels of anthocyanins and other phenolic compounds, mainly flavonols and ellagitannins, which contribute to its high antioxidant capacity and other biological activities. Sunscreen preparations are cosmetic preparations that are used as protection to reduce the impact of sun exposure, whose formulations contain active ingredients to absorb or reduce sunlight, especially in areas exposed to ultraviolet rays and infrared waves. One of the potential natural ingredients for sunscreen is blackberry fruit (Rubus sp.). Contains flavonoid compounds that can prevent the harmful effects of UV rays. This study aims to determine the stability of the blackberry fruit extract sunscreen gel formula for 90 days of storage to determine the SPF value test results of blackberry fruit extract using UV-Visible. The research design is an experimental research conducted in a laboratory. The sample used in this study was Blackberry which was made into thick extract by maceration method. Furthermore, the thick extract obtained was made into a sunscreen gel and then tested for physical stability and the calculation of the SPF value. The sunscreen potency test is determined based on the method of calculating the percent erythema transmission value (%Te) and the percent transmission pigmentation (%Tp) as well as the Sun Protection Factor (SPF) value. On testing the SPF the average value on the test day 0, day 7, day 15, day 21, day 30, day 60, day 90, respectively 28,03±0,77; 28,28±0,16; 28,46±0,41; 28,66±0,59; 28,85±0,33; 29,04±0,11; 29.24±0,27. Percent of erythema (% Te) testing over 90 days was included in the total block category. Percent pigmentation (% Tp) testing for 90 days was included in the total block category and the SPF test for 90 days was included in the category ultra.

In Vitro Pharmacological Screening of Antioxidant, Photoprotective, Cholinesterase, and α-Glucosidase Inhibitory Activities of Algerian Crataegus oxyacantha Fruits and Leaves Extracts

Various parts of Crataegus oxyacantha (hawthorn) plant have been used in traditional medicine in many countries including Algeria. In this study, antioxidant (GOR, ABTS, FRAP, CUPRAC and phenanthroline), photoprotective, and inhibition ability of n-butanol and ethyl acetate extracts from leaves and fruits of C. oxyacantha against Alzheimer’s disease [acetylcholinesterases (AChE) and butyrylcholinesterases (BChe)] and diabetes mellitus (α-glucosidase) related enzyme activities were investigated using standard methods. According to the obtained results, all plant extracts produced significant antioxidant effects. The ethyl acetate extract of C. oxyacantha leaves having the highest total bioactive content exhibited most pronounced antioxidant potential. Moreover, the extracts exhibited inhibitory effect against α-glucosidase, which was concentration dependent. The most potent inhibitor for α-glucosidase was n-butanol extract of C. oxyacantha leaves (with IC50 = 4.99 ± 0.82 μg/mL). The results also indicated a substantial BChe inhibitory activity of n-butanol extract (IC50 = 175.35 ± 16.25 μg/mL) and ethyl acetate extract (IC50 = 148.23 ± 13.41 μg/mL). The n-butanol extract was also the most potent inhibitor of AChE (IC50 = 159.09 ± 7.68 μg/mL. In addition, the plant extracts exhibited significant photoprotective potential with sun protection factor (SPF) values ranging from 17.19 ± 0.10 to 48.66 ± 0.00. Therefore, C. oxyacantha plant has a significant potential for enhancing pharmaceutical formulations.

DEVELOPMENT OF SUNSCREEN PRODUCTS CONTAINING GREEN TEA LEAF EXTRACT

Objective: The purpose of this research was to determine antioxidant activity of green tea leaf extract, the value of sun protection factor (SPF),physical properties, and stability of green tea cream.Methods: Green tea leaf extract was obtained by maceration using 96% ethanol. Cream was prepared in three formulas with various concentrationof the green tea leaves extract. The physical evaluations included organoleptic, pH, viscosity, adhesion, spreadability, and stability tests weredone. The determination of the SPF value is calculated using the Mansur equation. Extract of green tea leaf has strong antioxidant activity(IC50 2.19 μg/ml).Results: The green tea leaf extract showed high antioxidant activity (2.19 μg/m). All formulas are organoleptically creamy brownish-green to brown,with a distinctive green tea odor and homogeneous. All formulas met the requirements of physical properties of cream. The creams showed significantchange while they were stored at 4°C and at 40±2°C, but showed no difference when they were stored ad 26°C. SPF values of cream are 0.54; 2.03,and 2.41, respectively.Conclusions: It is clearly indicated that the sunscreen cream of green tea leaf extract is potential to be further developed as cosmetic preparations.

Application of Kenaf Seed Oil‐Nanostructured Lipid Carrier to Palm‐Based α‐Tocopherol Cream for Photoprotection

AbstractThe application of a nanostructured lipid carrier (NLC) to ultraviolet (UV) filter encapsulation was found to enhance its safe use. In this work, a kenaf seed oil‐NLC (KSO‐NLC) coloaded with 1% diethylamino hydroxybenzoyl hexyl benzoate and 1% ethylhexyl triazone was used as an active ingredient in α‐tocopherol cream to develop a photoprotective prototype. It was then subjected to further analysis to determine its physical properties, storage stability, and cytotoxicity. The ratio of KSO‐NLC to α‐tocopherol cream was optimized based on the sun protection factor (SPF) value using a UV transmittance analyzer. The physical properties of the samples were analyzed, and the amount of α‐tocopherol was quantified by ultra‐high‐performance liquid chromatography. The optimized sample was then evaluated for in vitro antioxidant activities using 2,2‐diphenyl‐1‐picrylhydrazyl (DPPH) and 2,2′‐azino‐bis(3‐ethylbenzothiazoline‐6‐sulfonic acid assays. Meanwhile, in vitro cytotoxicity was studied on a normal human dermal fibroblast cell line using thiazolyl blue tetrazolium bromide and cell counting kit‐8 assays. The sample of KSO‐NLC to α‐tocopherol cream in a ratio of 1:2 (N3) showed SPF value >50. Besides, the samples showed microbial stability and sustainable α‐tocopherol content upon 12 weeks of storage. The cytotoxicity evaluation of N3 and α‐tocopherol cream (N5) showed >100% cell proliferation, which indicated that there is no side effect on the cell growth, while triggering the cell proliferation with the presence of bioactive compounds. Overall, the findings of the study are promising for the development of new sunscreen formulation with the utilization of KSO‐NLC and palm‐based α‐tocopherol cream.

Photoprotective potential of a Tunisian halophyte plant Carpobrotus edulis L

IntroductionDifferent strategies are applicable to protect skin against the harmful effects which may appear due to an overexposure to UV radiation including the use of sunscreens. Natural polyphenols have shown an interesting activity as photoprotectors. This study aimed to assess the potentiality of a Tunisian halophyte plant, Carpobrotus edulis L. (CE) as a candidate for topical photoprotection. MethodsA phytochemical characterization of CE aqueous leaf extract was processed by quantification of total polyphenols and flavonoids contents as well as by FT-IR, UV and LC-MS analysis. The plant extract was, then, incorporated into an oil-in-water (O/W) cream and assessed for its in vitro antioxidant properties and sun protection factor (SPF). ResultsPhytochemical characterization highlighted the richness of the aqueous extract in polyphenols. LC-MS analysis permitted the identification of 20 phenolic compounds. Catechin, procyanidin B2, dihydromyricetin and syringetin-3-O-rutinoside were the most predominant components (19.39%, 16.04%, 12.85% and 14.28% respectively). UV spectrophotometric analyses showed that CE extract absorbed in the UV region (190–400 nm). C.E crude extract exhibited, at the concentration of 1000 µg/ml, a high photoprotective effect with a SPF value of 6.996 ± 0.174 corresponding to a percent of UV blockage ranging from 80 to 90%. Besides, when it was incorporated into an O/W emulsion at a concentration of 10% (m/m), it presented a good antioxidant activity (DPPH inhibition (%) ≈ 70%) and an in vitro SPF value of 1.626 ± 0.466 corresponding to a percent of UV blockage ≈50%. ConclusionThese results suggest that Carpobrotus edulis L. could be a good topical photoprotective agent.

Evaluation of antioxidant potential of pigments extracted from Bacillus spp. and Halomonas spp. isolated from mangrove rhizosphere.

The present study aimed to isolate different pigment-producing bacteria from the mangrove rhizosphere habitat and to extract their pigments for evaluating their antioxidant and sun-protective properties. Three pigment-producing bacterial cultures were isolated from soil samples and were identified by morphological analysis and 16S rDNA sequencing. The pigments were isolated by the solvent extraction method and named as MZ (Pink), Orange, and Yellow. They were characterized by Fourier Transform Infrared (FTIR) and UV-Vis spectroscopy. The sun protection factor (SPF) values of these pigments were then determined using the Mansur equation. The total polyphenol content was estimated by the Folin-Ciocâlteu method, and the antioxidant activity of the pigments was determined using DPPH (2,2-diphenyl-1-picrylhydrazyl), FRAP (ferric reducing antioxidant power), and ABTS (2,2-azinobis-3-ethyl-enzothiazoline-6-sulfonic acid) assays. The in vitro antioxidant potential of the pigments in the presence of oxidative stress (H2O2) was confirmed in the mouse macrophage cell line RAW264.7 by using the MTT (3-(4,5-dimethylthiazol-2-yl)-2,5-diphenyl tetrazolium bromide) assay. The pigment-producing bacterial isolates were identified as Bacillus infantis (MZ), Halomonas spp. (Orange), and Bacillus spp. (Yellow). The pigments were found to be carotenoid in nature, and the SPF values were in the range of 3.99 to 5.22. All three pigments had high polyphenol content (22 to 48 μg tannic acid equivalent) and showed significant antioxidant properties in both chemical and cell line-based studies. The results of this study indicate that these pigments have the potential to be used as an antioxidant agent and can be further developed as a pharmaceutical compound.

Formulation and Evaluation of Sunscreen Cream fromMoringa oleiferaandTurbinaria conoides

Research on the combination of natural ingredients from brown seaweed and Moringa, to be used as sunscreen has been nothing. Therefore, the objective of this study was to determine the best formulation from sunscreen evaluation. In this study, the ratio ofMoringa oleiferaandTurbinaria conoideswas 1:1 (cream L), 2:1 (cream M), 1:2 (cream N), and control (no added both of natural ingredients) (cream K). The evaluation of sunscreen cream by Sun Protection Factor (SPF) activity, viscosity, pH, homogeneity, and microbial test. SPF values in this study from cream K, L, M, and N were 0.75±2.31, 17.80±0.97, 9.48±1.41, and 15.97±2.38, respectively. Viscosity values were 22,400 cPs for cream K; 32,400 cPs for cream L; 26,000 cPs for cream M; and 32,800 cPs for cream N. The pH value of sunscreen cream in cream K, L, M, N were 7.30±0.02, 6.51±0.02, 6.38±0.04, and 6.43±0.04, respectively. In all of the treatments of sunscreen cream, microbial tests are absent and have good homogeneity. The ratio of 1:1 (cream L) betweenM. oleiferaandT. conoideshas a good synergistic effect to ward off UV B light, therefore cream L is the best sunscreen cream in this study.

Analysis of the applicative potential of pigments extracted from bacterial isolates of mangrove soil as topical UV protectants

Antioxidant, antibacterial and UV protective activities of two pigments extracted from mangrove soil isolates were analysed for their applications as ingredients in sunscreen formulations. Through biochemical characterization, the isolates were tentatively identified as belonging to the Flavobacterium sp. and Brevibacterium sp. UV visible spectral characterization of the pigments indicated presence of carotenoids. The orange pigment exhibited Sun Protection factor (SPF) value of 5.3 while the yellow pigment SPF was found to be 2.60. Both isolates as well as their pigments revealed tolerance to UVA-B radiation and to UVC radiation, to comparatively lesser extent. Yellow pigment exhibited good antibacterial activity with maximum effect on Escherichia coli, Corynebacterium diptheriae and Staphylococcus aureus. Both pigments were capable of reducing DPPH radical with % DPPH inhibition of 52.36% (orange pigment) and 40.1% (yellow pigment). These findings suggest that both pigments show promise of making excellent natural components of cosmetic formulations, especially sunscreens.

Spondias purpurea L. Stem Bark Extract: Antioxidant and in vitro Photoprotective Activities

Plant phenolic extracts are widely recognized as an important source of natural antioxidant substances and potential compounds for cosmetic formulations. This study aimed to evaluate the chemical profile, photoprotective and antioxidant activities of stem bark extract of Spondias purpurea L. (ciriguela) and its application in photoprotective formulations. Thirty phenolic constituents were annotated by ultra-performance liquid chromatography coupled with an electrospray ionization quadrupole time-of-flight mass spectrometry in mode negative (UPLC‑QTOF-MS2). The stem bark extract antioxidant and chelation potential, expressed in half maximal inhibitory concentration (IC50), showed 6.25 and 352.22 μg mL−1, respectively. The phenolic extract was used as an active ingredient in six sunscreen formulations, with concentrations ranging from 0.2 to 10%. The ultraviolet (UV) protection properties of the formulations were evaluated by sun protection factor (SPF) values obtained in 0.2 mg mL−1 (0.495 to 2.27) and 2.0 mg mL−1 (2.29 to 15.87). The SPF value for the extract (14.37 and 26.16) was high, but there was a reduction in the base formulation. However, these results suggested that the bioactive extracted of stem bark of Spondias purpurea L. has interesting potential to reduce the damage caused by UV radiation and may be utilized as an active ingredient in a sunscreen formulation.

Fungal melanin as a biocompatible broad-spectrum sunscreen with high antioxidant activity.

Melanin is considered a bio-inspired dermo-cosmetic component due to its high UV absorption and antioxidant activity. Among various melanin sources, fungal melanin is a promising candidate for sunscreen because of its sustainability and scalability; however, quantitative assessment of its function has not yet been sufficiently explored. In this study, melanin samples derived from Amorphotheca resinae were prepared, followed by the evaluation of their sunscreen performance, antioxidant activity, and cytotoxicity. Melanin-blended cream was prepared by blending a melanin suspension and a pure cream. The cream showed an in vitro sun protection factor value of 2.5 when the pigment content was 5%. The cream showed a critical wavelength of approximately 388 nm and a UVA/UVB ratio of more than 0.81, satisfying the broad-spectrum sunscreen requirement. Oxygen radical absorbance capacity assays indicated that fungal melanin had antioxidant activity similar to ascorbic acid but higher than reduced glutathione. Fungal melanin had no statistically significant cytotoxicity to human keratinocyte cell lines until 72 h of exposure, even at a concentration of 4 mg mL−1. Consequently, melanin pigment can be used as a biocompatible broad-spectrum sunscreen with high antioxidant activity and as a practical alternative in dermo-cosmetic formulations.

In-vitro and In-vivo Determinations of Sun Protection Factors (SPF) of Skin Lotions Containing Mountain Papaya Fruit and Mangosteen Peel Ethanolic Extract

Indonesia is a high sun exposure country. Exposure to ultraviolet (UV) causes various kinds of skin disorders such as erythema, sunburn, aging, and cancer. Mountain papaya fruit (Vasconcellea pubescens A.DC.) and mangosteen peel (Garcinia mangostana L.) contains metabolite compounds that can protect the skin from sunlight because of its antioxidants activity. The purpose of this study to determine whether the combination of the mountain papaya fruit and mangosteen peel extracts in skin lotion can be used as sun protectors through the in-vitro and in-vivo study. The experiment was done by extracting the mountain papaya fruit and mangosteen peel through the maceration method. The extracts were formulated into skin lotion in three different formulas with the ratio of mountain papaya fruit extract: mangosteen peel extract as follows F1(1:1), F2(1:3), and F3(3:1). In vitro test was done by using UV-VIS spectrophotometry to determine the SPF value and in vivo test was used erythema-induced rats by exotera beam light. The result of in vitro test gained a high enough SPF value for all three formulas F1=23,23; F2=21,70 and F3=28,64 and the result of in vivo test showed that all three formulas did not indicate the existence of erythema value. It can be concluded that three skin lotion formulas containing mountain papaya fruit and mangosteen peel ethanol extract have the effect of sun protection.

KARAKTERISTIK DAN NILAI SUN PROTECTING FACTOR (SPF) KITOSAN DARI TULANG SOTONG (Sephia officinalis)

Cuttlefish (sepia officinalis) have internal shells commonly called cuttlebones which produce more chitin than shrimp shells and crab skins. The purpose of this study was to determine the characteristics of chitosan from cuttlebone including the degree of deacetylation, water content, solubility, organoleptic test (color, odor, texture) as well as testing the value of chitosan protecting the sun protection factor. Chitosan is made in 3 stages, namely deproteination, demineralization, and deacetylation. Deproteination with 4% NaOH at 100 ° C for 60 minutes. Demineralization at room temperature using 1M HCl solution for 120 minutes. Deacetylation using 50% NaOH concentration at 100 ° C for 60 minutes. Chitosan characterization includes the degree of deacetylation, moisture content, solubility, organoleptic test (color, odor, texture). Testing the value of sun protection factor using a UV-VIS spectrophotometer read at wavelengths from 290 to 320 nm. Characteristics of chitosan produced according to chitosan standards used in industry with a deacetylation rate of 71%, yield 31%, moisture content of 0.93%, soluble in acetic acid2% solution, white odorless and powdery. Chitosan with a concentration of 3% gives the value of sun protecting factor 9 as a potential sunscreen that provides maximum protection power.

Photoprotective, antioxidant, antimicrobial and cytotoxic activities of guarana (Paullinia cupana) seed extracts

Introduction: Guarana (Paullinia cupana) is a native Amazonian fruit and, due to its medicinal properties, stands out as one of the most promising species of Brazilian flora. Known for its invigorating and stimulating action, this species produces phenolic compounds responsible for its biological activities, which are of great interest to the phytocosmetic industry, in the preparation of anti-aging creams, for example. In this study, the antimicrobial, antioxidant, photoprotective and cytotoxic activities of extracts obtained from guarana seeds were evaluated. Methods: Guarana seeds were obtained in Maués, Amazonas state, Brazil and, after drying, the seeds were ground in a knife mill. P. cupana seed extracts were obtained by the depletion method using hexane, dichloromethane and ethanol as solvents. Antioxidant activity assays were performed to determine the ability to scavenge the free radical 2,2-diphenyl-1-picrylhydrazyl (DPPH•). To assess the sun protection factor (SPF), Mansur's spectrophotometric method was used. For the analysis of antimicrobial activity, the microplate dilution technique was used against strains of Escherichia coli, Pseudomonas aeruginosa and Candida albicans. To evaluate the toxicity of the extracts, the lethal concentration of 50% of the population of the microcrustacean Artemia salina was determined. The cytotoxic effect of the extracts against human colorectal carcinoma cells (HCT 116) was also evaluated using the Alamar Blue test. Results: The ethanolic extract from guarana seeds showed SPF value of 249.10 and a critical wavelength number (λc) of 383 nm, when evaluated at a concentration of 0.1% (m/m). The ethanolic extract also showed antioxidant activity, and a 50% efficient concentration (EC50) of 647 μg mL-1. The dichloromethane extract was active against E. coli and P. aeruginosa, with a minimum inhibitory concentration (MIC) of 20 mg mL-1 for both bacteria, and a MIC of 2.0 mg mL-1 for the yeast. This extract did not show toxicity against A. salina (LD50> 1 mg mL-1). The ethanolic and hexane extracts, however, presented low toxicity to the microcrustacean. On the other hand, none of the evaluated extracts inhibited the proliferation of HCT116 cells, showing no cytotoxicity. Conclusion: P. cupana seeds have an important therapeutic value due to the presence of substances with antioxidant, antibiotic and photoprotective activities, though with low cytotoxicity, which allows their use as functional additives in phytocosmetics, as well as in the development of possible phytotherapeutic products.

Geeta Bhandari and Shruti Baurai

Abstract-Exposure to sunlight can trigger various biological responses ranging from sun-burn, erythema to skin cancer. Synthetic sunscreen formulations available in market pose variety of adverse effects. Therefore,formulationofthe herbalsunscreenformulation and evaluation of its sun protection activity is an important aspect in the cosmetic industry. The purpose of present study was to evaluate the sun protection factor (SPF) of aqueous and methanolic extract ofAloe barbadensis miller andCocos nuciferaby ultraviolet (UV) spectroscopy method.Methanolic extract of Cocos nucifera showed the highest SPF value (3.2)amongst all extracts.The results indicated presence of active components responsible for ultraviolet absorption which may be extracted from these plant extractsand maybe used in sunscreens preparations for better protection against sun rays.Key Words: UVradiations, SPF, Aloe barbadensis miller andCocos nucifera

Establishing an <i>In Vitro</i> Sun Protection Factor Test for Powder Products

It is necessary to establish an in vitro sun protection factor (SPF) test that considers costs, time requirements, and ethical problems. However, few studies on in vitro SPF tests for powder products, which do not easily create uniform layers on polymethyl methacrylate (PMMA) plates, have been reported so far. To produce uniform layers, solvents were applied on PMMA plates before applying powder products. This study aims to clarify the impact of various factors on in vitro SPF values of the powder products and establish an in vitro SPF test method that correlates with in vivo SPF values. Temperature variations affect the solvent viscosity, leading to significant differences in the in vitro SPF values. Therefore, we selected mineral oil because its viscosity is not strongly affected by the temperature. Based on the combinations of the amounts of solvents and samples, the confidence interval (CI[%]) varied. Therefore, we selected 0.3 mg/cm2 of sample against 0.1 mg/cm2 of solvent for the combination with CI [%]≤17. We identified significant differences in the in vitro SPF values depending on the number of spreads. Therefore, we defined the number of spreads as 10 reciprocations × 4, which had the smallest 95% confidence intervals (95% CI). We could not identify significant differences upon varying the spreading pressure. However, when the spreading pressure was (1.18±0.20)N, the CI [%] was higher than 17. Therefore, we chose (0.69±0.20)N, which had the smallest 95% CI. A single-regression analysis between the in vitro SPF values obtained by applying the conditions established in this study and the in vivo SPF values according to ISO 24444:2010 showed that the coefficient of determination was 0.9486 (r=0.9739). Thus, we successfully established an in vitro SPF testing approach for powder products.

Sunscreen activity on fruit skin extract of Annatto (Bixa orellana L.) in vitro

Background/Objectives: Indonesia is one of the countries that are included in the high category of sun exposure. This fact can have one of the fatal consequences on the skin which can be addressed by the usage of sunscreen. One of the natural ingredients that can be used as sunscreen is the skin of the annatto fruit. Methods/Statistical analysis: The sample was extracted using 95% ethanol by the maceration method. Phytochemical screening is carried out on phenolics, flavonoids, tannins, alkaloids, saponins, and terpenoids. The phenolic and flavonoid contents were determined using the spectrophotometer method. The sunscreen potential is determined based on the calculation of the percent of Erythema Transmission (% Te) and the percent of Transmission Pigmentation (% Tp) measured at a wavelength of 292.5 - 372.5nm. Measurement of the value of sunscreen uses the spectrophotometric method at a wavelength of 290 - 400 nm to determine % Tp, % Te, and the Sun Protection Factor (SPF) value. Findings/novelty/applications: The fruit skin extract of annatto contains phenolic, flavonoids, tannins and terpenoids compounds. The total phenolic content was 193.05  1.22 mg GAE / g extract, and total flavonoids amounting to 138.03  2.24 mg QE / g extract. From the research results, it was obtained that the value of% Tp,% Te was produced with a concentration of 200 ppm, 400 ppm, 600 ppm, 800 ppm, 1000 ppm respectively for the value (% Te;% Tp) of (18.56%; 45, 25 %) Fast Tanning category, (3.81%; 19.80%) standard suntan category, (1.20%; 10.08%) Ultra-Protection category, (0.30%; 1.64%) sunblock category, (0.09%; 1.42%) sunblock category. Furthermore, for the results of the SPF value in a row is 4.52 (moderate); 8.41 (maximum); 13.10 (maximum); 16.21 (ultra); and 21.12 (ultra). Keywords: Fruit skin of annatto; extract; phenolic; flavonoids; sunscreen

Assessment of In Vitro Sun Protection Factor of Plant Extracts by Ultraviolet Spectroscopy Method

Exposure to sunlight can trigger various biological responses ranging from sun-burn, erythema to skin cancer. Synthetic sunscreen formulations available in market pose variety of adverse effects. Therefore, formulation of the herbal sunscreen formulation and evaluation of its sun protection activity is an important aspect in the cosmetic industry. The purpose of present study was to evaluate the sun protection factor (SPF) of aqueous and methanolic extract of Aloe barbadensis miller and Cocos nucifera by ultraviolet (UV) spectroscopy method. Methanolic extract of Cocos nucifera showed the highest SPF value (3.2) amongst all extracts. The results indicated presence of active components responsible for ultraviolet absorption which may be extracted from these plant extracts and maybe used in sunscreens preparations for better protection against sun rays.