Men's Suits Research Articles

Textured pattern belts on pictures of the Semeiskie people from Transbaikal

An analysis of the regional, cultural and technological observations is proposed in the article with the aim of preserving a unique phenomenon of the textured pattern belts of the Semeiskie people from Transbaikal. The work is based on personal photo archives of residents of the village of Bichura in the Republic of Buryatia and interviews with them. Photographs are used as an auxiliary source to visualize belts in the folk costume complex. An analysis of digital images of photographs from the beginning of the 20th century to the 1980s is presented. Despite the insufficient quality of the photographs by modern standards they represent a valuable source. In terms of statistics on the use of a traditional men's suit (an obvious replacement for the civilian leather belt) age and gender limits for wearing, as well as the preservation of traditional ornamentation. The scientific novelty of the study consists in systematization and generalization of heterogeneous information, which allows to analyze images according to the author's method of describing textured pattern belts. The geometric elements of the pattern, the composition, the principle of constructing the ornament, the approximate number of woven threads. Photographic materials from personal and museum archives have been introduced into scientific circulation. A comparison of the belt ornamentation in the photographs with real samples is made. It is preliminary established that there is no basis for dividing the belts by gender and age. The results are obtained using content analysis, visual analysis, comparative-typological, comparative, biographical methods and the formalization method. The analysis of the content of the images is based on the identification of visual elements that are significant from the point of view of the problem at hand, the frequency of their appearance in the selected collection of images and subsequent analysis of the quantitative results.

Research on parametric design of men's suit lapel based on knowledge

PurposeThe purpose of this paper is to improve the efficiency of pattern-making for suit lapels in the apparel industry, to master the perceptual knowledge of suit lapels and to establish a mapping relationship between suit lapel styles and perceptual judgment.Design/methodology/approachIn this paper, notch lapel, peak lapel and shawl lapel are studied, and the authors extract the structural features in the order of drafting as the input values for model training. At the same time, after the expert screening, four perceptual evaluation dimensions based on a priori knowledge are selected as output values, which are finally classified using a decision tree algorithm.FindingsThe results show that different design parameters produce different perceptions of people's vision and, thus, different perceptual judgments. The decision tree model can effectively classify the perceptual judgment of the lapel shape.Originality/valueThe findings of this study help garment factories to provide optimal judgment of basic parameters before the production of a suit lapel and to improve the efficiency of the design.

Tropical whites: Hegemonic masculinity and menswear at the crossroads of Australia and Asia, 1900–1939

AbstractThis article explores the social and gender history of ‘tropical whites’ – all‐white men's suits worn with pith helmets in tropical societies colonised by European powers – between c.1900 and 1939. Focusing on two northern Australian ports with multiple connections to Asia, the article shows that tropical whites helped to sustain inequities of race, gender and class in the colonial tropics. The fashion did this by helping to produce hegemonic masculinity in the region. Tropical whites served this function by symbolising racial whiteness and imperial mastery, but also because of their material dimensions: who made and maintained them, and the bodily influence they exerted on their wearers. Underlining the embodied dimensions of hegemonic masculinity, the article explores the multidimensional relationship between menswear and power in the Australian tropics; at the same time showing that racially subordinated men transformed aspects of the fashion for their own ends.

Research on the functional pattern-making of men's windbreaker

PurposeThe purpose of this paper is to achieve one garment with multiple uses, reduce waste and increase the fun of clothing design.Design/methodology/approachThrough the comparison of the structural design of windbreaker with the structural design of suit and other coats, find out the similarities and differences between them in the structure then provide a reliable theoretical basis for the combination and transformation of the two; and then start with the structural theory of men's windbreaker, from the detail structure and the structure. The optimization design of the overall structure, the application of mathematical theory to establish a regular structure design method, so that it can be split through the zipper combination into men's suits or other coats. Finally, from the perspective of technology, the functional transformation from men's windbreaker to men's casual suit and other coats is completed in terms of style, structure and technology.FindingsThrough reasonable clothing structure design and invisible zipper layout, one type of clothing can be used as multiple types of clothing.Originality/valueA new fashion design method is proposed to minimize the waste of fashion design process.

A mixed faster R-CNN and positioning coordinates method for recognition of suit button arrangement with small sample sizes

PurposeIt is an important style classification way to sort out suits according to the button arrangement. However, since the different dressing ways of suit cause the buttons to be easily occluded, the traditional identification methods are difficult to identify the details of suits, and the recognition accuracy is not ideal. The purpose of this paper is to solve the problem of fine-grained classification of suit by button arrangement. Taking men's suits as an example, a method of coordinate position discrimination algorithm combined faster region-based convolutional neural network (R-CNN) algorithm is proposed to achieve accurate batch classification of suit styles under different dressing modes.Design/methodology/approachThe detection algorithm of suit buttons proposed in this paper includes faster R-CNN algorithm and coordinate position discrimination algorithm. Firstly, a small sample base was established, which includes six suit styles in different dressing states. Secondly, buttons and buttonholes in the image were marked, and the image features were extracted by the residual network to identify the object. The anchors regression coordinates in the sample were obtained through convolution, pooling and other operations. Finally, the position coordinate relation of buttons and buttonholes was used to accurately judge and distinguish suit styles under different dressing ways, so as to eliminate the wrong results of direct classification by the network and achieve accurate classification.FindingsThe experimental results show that this method could be used to accurately classify suits based on small samples. The recognition accuracy rate reaches 95.42%. It can effectively solve the problem of machine misjudgment of suit style due to the cover of buttons, which provides an effective method for the fine-grained classification of suit style.Originality/valueA method combining coordinate position discrimination algorithm with convolutional neural network was proposed for the first time to realize the fine-grained classification of suit style. It solves the problem of machine misreading, which is easily caused by buttons occluded in different suits.

Research on optimization design of men's suit considering users' perception

PurposeThis paper aims to identify the relationship between users' perception image, clothing design features and users' preference and propose a clothing design scheme based on users perception image and users' preference.Design/methodology/approachIn this paper, men's suit is composed into multiple design features under the design elements. Using the orthogonal experiment method, 16 schemes of the representative suit are designed. Through perception evaluation experiment, users' perception images and preference degree of the samples are obtained. By partial least squares (PLS) analysis method, the models between users' perception image, suit design features and users' preference are built.FindingsThe interrelationship between the three is identified by establishing PLS models between users' perception image, suit design features and users' preference. According to the coefficients of the models, the optimization schemes of men's suits considering users' perception image and preference are proposed. Verification results show that the optimization schemes are significantly better than other schemes.Originality/valueThe results of this paper can be used for consumer demand-oriented clothing design and provide references and methods for converting consumer's perceived needs into clothing design features.

ДЕКОРАТИВНЕ ОЗДОБЛЕННЯ ЧОЛОВІЧОГО КОСТЮМА В КОЛЕКЦІЯХ ДИЗАЙНЕРІВ ПОЧАТКУ XXI СТОЛІТТЯ

The aim is to explore the decoration of men's suits in the collections of Ukrainian and foreign designers of the XXI century. Methodology. Applied methods of comparison, visual-analytical, retrospective and artistic-compositional analysis. Results. The varieties of decorative finishing of men's suits, which were used by designers of Ukrainian and world brands of fashionable clothes in their collections at the beginning of the XXI century, have been studied. The main directions of development of menswear decoration, its main tendencies are determined; artistic means of decorating men's suits were found in the collections of the World Fashion Houses and in the works of Ukrainian designers. It is established that cardinal changes in the design of men's clothing began at the beginning of the XXI century, and until now the men's suit was characterized by the constancy of the general geometric shape and the main compositional solution. During this period, the dynamics of the decorative finishing of men's suits, which became more diverse and unusual, and often repeated the decoration of women's suits by color, the use of embroidery with different materials (beads, sequins, quilting, etc.), lace, use of fabrics of different colors, textures, patterns, prints, etc. The scientific noveltyis to determine the dynamics and trends in the decorative finishing of men's suits in the collections of the World Fashion Houses and Ukrainian designers, which were demonstrated at the beginning of the XXI century. Practical significance. The processed information and materials allowed to determine the leading techniques and types of decorative finishing of men's suits of the XXI century. The results can be used in further research on the history of fashion and menswear design.

Water footprint assessment of viscose staple fiber garments

Abstract The viscose fiber industry forms a large part of the textile industry and is a typical water consumption and wastewater discharge industry. As a tool to quantify environmental impacts in terms of water resources, the water footprint assessment (WFA) is a control method for the textile and apparel industry to measure water consumption and wastewater discharge. In this study, the water footprints of viscose staple fiber blouses and blended men's suits were comprehensively evaluated based on the ISO 14046 standard and the life cycle assessment (LCA) polygon method. The WFA results from our study indicate that the production stage of viscose staple fiber garments has the most significant water resource environmental load. Specifically, the water footprint related to the production of viscose staple fiber for three types of clothing accounted for more than 50% of the total water footprint, with men's 100% viscose staple fiber suits having the largest impact on water resources and the environment. Furthermore, our results indicate that the water alkaline footprint is primarily influenced by the viscose staple fiber production as well as the dyeing and finishing processes. NaOH and Na2CO3 are the main pollutants that caused the water alkaline footprint. In addition, the water ecotoxicity footprint was the major driving factor of water resource environmental load. Zn2+ is the main pollutant that caused the water ecotoxicity footprint.

Analiza prve autohtone subkulture u istoriji mode - antimodni stil enkroajabla i mervejeza ("Incroyables" i "Merveilleuses")

This scientific article is devoted to an extremely intriguing topic, so relevant among connoisseurs of fashion history and fashion costume (but not enough among ordinary fashion lovers) and is of great benefit to today's science, fashion and fashion industry, as it relates to the question of how socio-political events can greatly influence the construction of a completely new costume, radically different from the conventional one. One of the main goals of this scientific work is to reconsider and critically analyze the costumes of the most rebellious young people who lived in the late XVIII century. The so-called "Incroyables" and "Merveilleuses" emerged as the first autochthonous subculture in the history of fashion, contributing to fashion through the characteristic elements and variations of men's and women's costumes, thus defining a completely new social ideal of beauty, embodied and expressed with the help of fashionable women's and men's suits from this period. On the other hand, thanks to the knowledge and study of this new way and method of structuring the costume, the horizon is born in which it becomes clear how the new young people appeared after the second half of the 20th century, and the designers of the new age cleverly use accumulated historical material in their creative practice and embody the same in a way so characteristic of the spirit of the time. Due to the fact that fashion has various manifestations, I have also used cross-cultural research methods -attracting certain parts of sociology and structural and systematic analysis..

Perceived diagnostics of virtual try-on technologies and attitudes toward men's suits

Perceived diagnostics of virtual try-on technologies and attitudes toward men's suits

Perceived diagnostics of virtual try-on technologies and attitudes toward men's suits

The purpose of this study was to investigate the effects of virtual try-on technologies and their perceived diagnostics on consumers' purchase intentions for men's suits using a conceptual model based on the stimulus-organism-response theory. A within-subjects research design was developed to empirically test the conceptual model and a total of 264 usable participant responses were collected. Participants were directed to a website to virtually try men's suits in different sizes, colours, fits, and designs on their personalised avatars. Perceived diagnostics from virtual try-on technologies were found to reduce consumers' perceived risks regarding product attributes and to increase purchase intentions for Hugo Boss men's suits. Therefore, we suggest that e-fashion retailers and technology developers continue to enhance and implement virtual try-on technologies and vivid 3D images in the sale of apparel. Also, men's wear companies should provide sufficient information about product attributes to strengthen perceived diagnostics through 3D technologies, thus increasing e-consumers' purchasing intentions for the apparel.

Retrospective Analysis of European Men’s Suit from 1850s to 1920s for Virtual Reconstruction

Historical costume not only offers a rich source of inspiration for contemporary fashion designers, but also provides important area of research for sociologists, anthropologists and historians. This article analyzed European men's suit from 1850s to 1920s from written sources and real historical prototypes and investigated how the historical garments were worn layer by layer. This investigation could help to understand the historical methods of pattern block drafting, suit shaping during sewing, which will be applicable in high-precision reconstruction of men costume in virtual reality for online museum.

САКРАЛЬНАЯ СЕМАНТИКА ТУВИНСКОГО ТРАДИЦИОННОГО КОСТЮМА

The relevance of the work is due to the need to study the features of the cut and decoration of the Tuvan costume, which are, on the one hand, a bright unique ethnic image, and on the other hand, carry the universal laws of the Universe inherent in the cultures of all the peoples of the Earth. The traditional costume is included in the “cultural core” of the Tuvan people and contributes to the preservation of its national identity. The aim of the work is to study the sacred semantics of a traditional costume. The object of research is the Tuvan folk costume, the subject is the sign-symbolic nature of the traditional Tuvan costume. The study uses a cultural-historical analysis that reveals the specifics of the Tuvan national clothing and its types, as well as the structural-semiotic method, which allows you to explore the features of the symbolic and symbolic nature of national clothing. National clothing is a complex structure that includes numerous types of upper and lower clothes, hats, shoes, jewelry, personal items and hairstyles. Tuvan clothes are classified according to their age and sex and eight traditional types are distinguished: children’s, girls’s suits, boys’s suits, bridesmaids suits, women’s suits, men's suits, and older’s suits. The traditional costume of Tuvans is a ritual object that has rich sacred semantics. The Tuvan costume is considered not only as a thing, but also as a symbolic sacred form, a sign in the context of culture. This semantic status of folk clothes was to be read and understood both by its owner and other members of traditional cultural communities, as a “sign (symbol, code, artistic image), composed of clothing, shoes, accessories, external behaviors, characteristics of the figure and human personality. The costume language is an image of the real world, the accumulated spiritual experience of people, the practical and aesthetic values of previous generations. Each element of the traditional costume had both functional significance and sacred semantics. The forms of cut and elements of the traditional Tuvan costume acquired particular semantic significance and translated the unity of the “earthly” and “sacred” worlds of mythological consciousness. The traditional Tuvan costume as the most important element of the material culture of the Tuvan people is a “mirror of myth”, reflecting various spheres of life, both material and spiritual. The traditional costume captures the diversity of all aspects of human life, the complexity of social relations and human behavior patterns in material embodiment. The entire costume complex is an integral system of ordered and interconnected signs and symbols, through which the accumulation, organization and transfer of cultural experience is carried out. The result of the study is the systematization of the cultural types of costume and the identification of their symbolic sound in a specific material expression (form, cut, decoration elements).

OUR TOWN

OUR TOWN

Differences in Purchase Behavior of Men's Suits among Male Consumption Value Groups

Differences in Purchase Behavior of Men's Suits among Male Consumption Value Groups

Strange Interlude

Strange Interlude

신사 정장 브랜드의 기성복 및 MTM 생산 실태 조사 : 백화점 입점 브랜드를 대상으로

This study aimed to investigate the status of ready-made suit and MTM (Made-to-measure) suit production with 10 men's suit brands turning over 200 billion won. Their target age group is late 30's to late 40's. Regarding production for the ready-made suit, eight out of 10 brands are using both KS and their own sizing. Classification of body shapes was done in 8 brands, mostly for upper body in simple ways (lean, normal, and obese). All brands are conducting fittings on only standard size. The number of sizes produced is varying depending on the brands; 9 to 17 for a jacket and 9 to 20 for a pair of pants. Regarding on the MTM production, four out of 10 brands have implemented MTM production. The rate of MTM production to their total production is about 15-20%. There were positive opinions on MTM production since it enables to reduce stocks through a small quantity of production for necessary sizes only. The reasons of orders of MTM production were answered as 'no size available', 'unique body shape', etc., and most orders were placed by consumers who are fat-bellied or have thick thighs. They have used MTM automated CAD software developed by Gerber Technology or Investronica. All the brands have utilized automated marker-making software and cutting facilities for MTM production.

휴리스틱 기법을 이용한 휠체어 사용자를 위한 온라인 남성정장 맞춤시스템 개발

An online suit-customizing system for the special accessibility needs of wheelchair users should be developed because the demand for business suits by wheelchair users involved in economic activities has increased. This study develops a user interface an online customizing system for men's suits specialized for wheelchair users. This study used a five-step approach: (1) search for online men's suits customizing system in web porter sites, (2) select three sites based on three terms, (3) heuristic testing with five web specialists, (4) development of a system user interface based on suggestions for improvement from the heuristic test, (5) usability testing of the user interface prototype by 10 disabled men in wheelchairs. The interface of Company S had high ratings on interactivity, accessibility, informativeness, and consistency in the heuristic test results; subsequently, a user interface was developed based on suggestions for improvement from the heuristic test. This online user interface for customizing men's suits provides better usability to wheelchair users than existing online interfaces aimed at the non-disabled and disabled; consequently, this study contributes to the commercialization of an online customizing system for men's suits specializing in serving wheelchair users.

Is RuPaul Enough? Difference, Identity, and Presence in the Communication Classroom

We begin by projecting two pictures of the famous drag queen, RuPaul: one of her in drag, and the other of him in a traditional men's suit. We pose one simple question to our class: what gender is ...

Research on the Radical Innovation of C2M Business Model—A Case Study on Redcollar MTM Men’s Suits in China

<p class="AbstractWCCM"><span lang="EN-US">For recently years, with the deep integration of informatization and industrialization, traditional manufacturing industries in China have been investigating for the road of transformation and upgrading. A Chinese garment enterprise, named Redcollar Group of China, has successfully transformed and upgraded to high-tech industry with high value added from labor-intensive industry. It is very important to explore the reason, method and business model it has created so as to provide some beneficial advice to China’s traditional manufactures. In this case study, indirect research, field research, comparison research and customers’ experience methods have been used. As a result, it is found that the enterprise has successfully created a C2M business mode of men's custom suits and has succeeded in producing customization suits with large-scale production efficiency. Being the first factory in the world by using industrialization measures to produce thoroughly customized men’s suits, the Redcollar’s C2M model is the revolutionary and disruptive radical innovation which breaks through the traditional suits making, the traditional clothing manufacturing model, the value perception of traditional manufacturing industry and the existing business regulations. </span></p>