Men's Jacket Research Articles

의복 여유량 산출을 통한 남성복 재킷 패턴 제도 공식의 정확성 검증

Background/Objectives: The purpose of present study is to verify the size prediction accuracy of pattern drafting formulas through the trend line drawing for anthropometric data and ease allowances calculation. Methods: Pattern drafting formulas were investigated from 6 men's jacket textbooks. A scatter plot with the y-axis as the predictor variable and the x-axis as the input variable in each formula was created using Size Korea data. A trend line was drawn on the scatter plot to observe the change in ease allowance, and to determine the formula that showed the most accurate slope. Correlation analysis and regression analysis were conducted to derive the pattern drafting formulas supplementing problems of analyzed formulas. Results: For ‘armscye depth’, method A was confirmed to be most suitable, and a drafting formula using both chest circumference and height was recommended. For 'waist back length', method E showed the best results, and the explanatory power was the highest when the total length was used. For ‘side waist to hip length’, it was recommended to use direct measurements. For ‘back neck width/2’, it was found that using the neck circumference was appropriate. The ease allowance on ‘armscye width’ was excessively reduced according to the increase of chest circumference since the flatness of the human body was not reflected in the drafting formulas. To remedy this problem, it was recommended to use both bi-shoulder length and back neck to ground length for ‘front width’, and use only bi-shoulder length for ‘back width’. Conclusion/Implications: Since the analyzed men's jacket pattern drafting textbooks did not reflect the actual change of Korean men's body size, a correction of drafting formulas using Size Korea data is needed.

남성 정장 재킷의 대량맞춤생산을 위한 체형 분류 방법

Background/Objectives: The purpose of present study is to develop a new body shape classification method, that can be used for the mass customization of men’s formal jackets, using variables measured on the men’s flattened body surfaces.
 Methods: Male participants in their 20s-50s were extracted from the 5th Size Korea database. The body surfaces were flattened into three-panels according to the conventional structure of men’s formal jackets. Variables were measured on the flattened panels, and those were inputted into the PCA. K-means clustering was conducted to categorize the flattened figure types. A logistic regression model was established to predict the body surface types.
 Results: 152 individuals were extracted for the body surface flattening. The 3D meshes were formed on the body surfaces, and those were flattened using distortion minimizing algorithm. Seventeen angles and two size differences were measured on the flattened figures, and five factors were extracted by the PCA. Five flattened figure types were extracted through k-means clustering: “normal”, “sway-back”, “bend-forward” “lean-back-b” and “lean-back-I”. The correspondence between the logistic regression model and K-means clustering was 90.79%.
 Conclusion/Implications: The classification method developed in the present study enable the quick and convenient decision of apparel customer's body shape type. It is optimized for mass customization of men's jackets because the variables were measured by converting the body surface into a jacket pattern structure.

The PDCA Approach with Seven Quality Tools for Quality Improvement Men’s Formal Jackets in Indonesia Garment Industry

Garment production with men's jacket products still finds products with poor quality and a high percentage of defects. The method used in this study is the PDCA approach with seven quality tools. The purpose of this study is to determine the cause of defects, provide solutions to repair these problems by reducing product defects, and reduce the percentage of dominant defects in the Finishing section. This study found that the factors causing the damage were human, machine, method, material, and environmental factors. Meanwhile, improvement efforts are contained in the Action stage, namely 5W+1H. The results of these improvements have an impact on the reduction of finishing defects from 17.8% to 11.8% which means a decrease in defects by 33.7% every month in the finishing section. The implications of this research can be used as a reference to reduce similar problems in the garment industry process. The combination of the PDCA approach and seven repair tools results in a defect percentage control system using a control chart so that defects will be controlled and corrective actions will be taken quickly.

Implementation of six sigma approach for increasing quality formal men’s jackets in the garment industry

This study aims to implement the Six Sigma method on formal men's jacket products in the garment industry to increase the level of sigma. The methodology is based on the Define, Measure, Analyze, Improve, and Control (DMAIC) approach. The new approach in this study is the determination of 5W+1H using a Focus Group Discussion (FGD) with five expert judgments. The design of this study has applied the Six Sigma method at the Measure stage. It is a measurement before improvement and after the Control stage as a measurement after improvement. The results of this study have increased the level of sigma from 3.5765 to 3.7839, so there is an increase of 5.48%. Increasing the sigma level contributes to a decrease in defects at the finish line by 44.09% every month. Implementing the Six Sigma method to the DMAIC approach has succeeded in increasing the level of sigma, automatically reducing the percentage of defects and increasing the productivity of formal men's jackets in the garment industry.

Šivaće mašine ručnih uboda za izradu muških odela

Hand stitches seams along edges of lapels, collars and pocket flaps on a men jacket help to fix canvas interlining under face fabric, keep the edges flat and prevent them from rolling or curling. Traditionally hand stitches seams also indicate high quality of the suit. Real hand stitch machines imitate had stitch 209. Depending on the length of the top and bottom stitch parts the machines can create pick stitches, saddle stitches and other stitch patterns. One group of the machines create stitches by help of a hooked needle, other machines use a double pointed needle. The machines work with limited length threads, most often with 90 cm and 120 cm long ones. The hand stitch seams can to be sewn with special waxed silk threads or regular threads. To increase work productivity and quality the machines use manual or auto thread trimming devices, reverse stitch function, half stitch option, seam beginning and end securing, programmable stitch type, sewing speed, stitch length, thread trimming time.

A study on the upper body type and size of men aged 30-44 for men jacket pattern design

A study on the upper body type and size of men aged 30-44 for men jacket pattern design

فعالیة برنامج جربر فى بناء باترون الجاکیت الرجالى

الملخص فعالية برنامج جربر فى بناء باترون الجاکيت الرجالى إن التطور الهائل فى التکنولوجيا وتقنية المعلومات يحتاج إلى تطوير المناهج والمقررات التدريسية لمواکبة هذا التطور ومواکبة سوق العمل وخاصة فى التعليم الجامعى لما له من أهمية کبيرة فى رفع قدرات الطالب المهارية وخاصة فى الآونه الأخيرة والتى أتسمت بقدرة الطلاب على التعامل مع التکنولوجيا بشکل جيد يسهل أستخدام البرامج الألکترونية مع الطلاب لذا لابد من أستغلال قدرات الطلاب فى هذا الجانب وانجذابهم إلى التعامل مع التکنولوجيا، وقد أثرت الثورة التکنولوجية على منظومه التعليم وبدأ الأتجاه للتعلم الألکترونى والتعلم عن بعد والأتجاه إلى التعلم الذاتى لمواکبة هذة الطفرة التکنولوجية. وقد شمل التطور التکنولوجي صناعة الملابس الجاهزة حيث ظهرت العديد من البرامج الألکترونية التى تستخدم فى مراحل تصميم وإنتاج الملابس بداية من التصميم ومرورا بالباترون والأنتاج وحتى التعبئة والتغليف حيث تشمل التطور التکنولوجي جميع مراحل العملية الإنتاجية ومن أهم المراحل التى شملها التطور التکنولوجى والتقنى هى مرحلة إعداد النماذج ( الباترونات) بداية من الرسم النموذج ونهاية بعملية التعشيق والقص أوتوماتيکيا لذلک وجب إعداد متخصصين على مستوى عالى من المهارة والکفاءة والألمام بما هو حديث فى مجال إعداد الباترونات. لذا يجب الأهتمام بالعملية التعليمية وذلک عن طريق إدخال البرامج الألکترونية المختلفة فى تدريس النماذج (الباترونات) لرفع قدرات الطلاب المهارية لمواکبة سوق العمل والتطور التقنى لذلک يهدف البحث رفع مستوى التحصيل والأداء المهارى لطلاب المعهد الفنى فى مهارة بناء باترون الجاکيت الرجالى باستخدام برنامج جربر ويفرض البحث فاعلية برنامج جربر فى بناء باترون الجاکيت الرجالى، توجد فروق دالة احصائية بين متوسطى درجات الأختبار التحصيلى (القبلية- البعدية) لصالح التطبيق البعدى، توجد فروق دالة إحصائية بين متوسطى درجات الاختبار المهارى (القبلية – البعدية) لصالح التطبيق البعدى، آراء الطلاب ايجابية نحو طريقة برنامج جربر. أهم نتائج البحث ثبت فاعلية برنامج جربر فى بناء باترون الجاکيت الرجالى، حيث توجد فروق دالة إحصائية بين متوسطى درجات الأختبار التحصيلى (القبلية- البعدية) لصالح التطبيق البعدى، توجد فروق دالة احصائية بين متوسطى درجات الاختبار المهارى (القبلية – البعدية) لصالح التطبيق البعدى، کما يوصى البحث بإستخدام البرامج الألکترونية المتعددة والتى تستخدم فى صناعة وإنتاج الملابس لتدريب الطلاب عليها وذلک للحصول على خريج ذو جودة وکفاءة عالية تواکب سوق العمل. Abstract Gerber’s effectiveness in building a pattern jacket for Men The tremendous development of technology and information technology needs to develop educational curricula and decisions to keep with this development and to keep up with the labor market, particularly in university education because of its great importance in increasing student skills capacities, especially in recent times. the ability of students to handle technology has been characterized by the ability of good technology, facilitating the use of e-programs with students, and therefore it is essential to exploit the capabilities of students in this aspect and to attract them to technology and the trend towards e-learning and distance learning has begun to be used to keep up with this technological boom. The technological development may include the clothing industry, where many e- programs are used in design and clothing production stages, which are designed, passed through pattern and production, and even mobilization, where technological development involves all stages of the production, One of the most important phases of technological development and revision, starting with modeling (patterns), and automation and automation and reduction. it is Therefore necessary to develop highly skilled, competent and well-known specialists in the development of pastoralists, by introducing various electronic programs into education (patterns) patterns in order to increase student capacity to keep up with the lab our market and the develop it. The research aims to raise the level of achievement and skilled performance of the Institute’s technical students in building a jacket for men using the Gerber program. The research implies the effectiveness of Gerber program in building the men's jacket pattern, there are significant statistical differences between the medium-type pattern of completion testing (pre-post) for the application process, and there are significant statistical differences between the average skill testing (pre-phase) for the application process and there are significant statistical differences between the average skill testing (pre-phase) for the Gerber program process, and positive student views on the Gerber program method. The most important findings of the research have proved the effective in building the men's jacket school. There are statistically significant differences between the average completion test (pre-post) outcome in favour of the job application. The research also recommends that the multiple e- programs used to make and produce clothing to training for students to obtain a high quality and efficient graduate, which is in keeping with the labour market.

ІННОВАЦІЙНІ ТЕХНОЛОГІЇ МОДУЛЬНОГО ПРОЄКТУВАННЯ КОНСТРУКТИВНО- УНІФІКОВАНИХ РЯДІВ СТАБІЛЬНОГО АСОРТИМЕНТУ

The Objective of this research is to identify the logistics of the coordination of the modular design processes of constructively-unifi ed rows of competitive garments. The methodology of the modern researches is a combination of analytical methods used in situational modeling of within the sets of models of stable assortment. The nomenclature of structural modules is determined by the method of generating the structural elements of the design of men's jacket design. The method of combinatorial synthesis of composite elements determines the route of modifi cation techniques in the process of developing a design documentation. Results. As a result of research of logistic coordination of sequence of cyclist of working out of a constructively-unifi ed number of models expediency of modifi cation of par ameters of a constructive prototype is revealed. The key areas of innovative technology of a modular design of a stable range are identifi ed as follows:- the objectivity of the assessment of the functionality of the product (the competitiveness of the range increases);- drawing attention to the gradation of structural states of the design object (the algorithm of design solutions is simplifi ed);- unifi cation of structural elements of constructive modifi cation (expands the possibilities of smart technologies by the search function «yes-no»);- coordination of synergetic connections in the game space of the morphological structure of the object (provides minimization of information arrays in updating the models of the industrial collection);- operational planning of stages of design and technological preparation of production (determines the vector of the models selection of an industrial series for start in technological process).Practical value. The obtained results are recommended for the implementation in the production and marketing activities of enterprises in order to increase the effi cie ncy of project documentation and, as a result, improve the competitiveness of products. Provided expansion of smart technologies in business, the logistics of accelerating the design and technological preparation of production has high prospects in application.

An exploratory study of fit and size issues with mass customized men's jackets using 3D body scan and virtual try-on technology

The purpose of this study was to explore the potential for mass customization with fit and size issues using 3D technology in men's jacket development. The study tested a fit mass customization process that employed 3D body scanning and 3D virtual simulation technology and the results are summarized as follows. First, the fit evaluation for the final virtual jacket was improved from the first virtual jacket. Second, during the virtual jacket evaluation process, the participants made various requests to change the fit of their virtual jacket. The large-size group made more requests for alterations to their virtual jackets than the medium- and small-size groups. Third, the study underlines certain improvements needed before the technology can be used for apparel mass customization. The chest circumference, back width, and sleeve length of the real jacket each tended to be slightly tighter or shorter than that of the virtual jacket. Fourth, the study suggests that the jacket made from the mass customization process was satisfactory to potential male consumers, as the actual jacket from the mass customization scenario in this study was evaluated as being better than a ready-to-wear jacket. 3D technology is identified as an innovative tool for future tailors and the menswear industry, particularly aimed at young male consumers. The current study shows the potential for the use of this technology for menswear development.

Jacket uticaj različitih veličina i vrste tkanina na iskorišćenje krojne slike za muški sako

The aim of this paper is computer construction, modeling, and grading of cut pieces of a men's jacket, as well as to see the influence of different sizes and types of material (stripe and plaid) on the creation of markers for men's jacket. The emphasis is made on making several cut markers for a different type of fabric, to see the difference between the utilization of material during cutting, depending on the fabric design as well as different sizes. In practice, it is difficult to make a cut marker that will contain stripes or plaid. The reason is that these fabrics obtained by weaving do not have an ideal appearance. That is why a marker for fabric without a pattern is made, and then the fitting cut pieces to the designed materials are done manually. The obtained results lead to the conclusion that the different sizes and the type of material have a large influence on the utilization of cut marker and consumption of textile materials. It can be assumed that the CAD application provides the fastest and most efficient solutions to the problems that arise during the preparation of the model for production.

الاستفادة من برمجيات الحاسب الالى ( الأوتوکاد ) فى بناء النموذج الأساسى للجاکيت الرجالى الکلاسيک للتطبيق فى العملية التعليمية

الملخص : تنمية مهارات الطلاب فى رسم الباترون الجاکيت الرجالى الکلاسيک بالحاسب الألى وإعطائهم القدر الکافى من المعلومات عن کيفية استخدام الأتوکاد فى رسم باترون الجاکيت الرجالى الکلاسيک وتکونت عينة البحث من 25 طالب من طلاب الفرقة الرابعة من کلية الأقتصاد المنزلى جامعة المنوفية وتم تدريب العينة على البرنامج ورسم الباترون على الأتوکاد وتم عمل الأختبارات المعرفية والمهارية ومعرفة اتجاهات الطلاب للبرنامج قبل وبعد التدريب لمعرفة مدى استفادة الطلاب من التدريب. وتناولت الدراسة خطة البحث – الأطار النظرى للمفاهيم الباترونات و الوسائل التعليمية وأهمية استخدام الحاسب الألى فى العملية التعليمية . وتناولت الدراسة أيضا البحوث والدراسات السابقة المتعلقة بمتغيرات الدراسة و الخطوات الأجرائية المتعلقة بإعداد وضبط أدوات الدراسة ورصد النتائج وتحليلها وتفسيرها . توصلت الدراسة انه يوجد تأثير معنوى للتدريب على برنامج الأتوکاد على اتجاه الطلاب نحو تقدير أهمية استخدام البرنامج فى دراسة مادة المعاطف و أنه يوجد تأثير معنوى للتدريب ببرنامج الأوتوکاد نحو الطلاب عند مزاوله استحدام البرنامج ، ويوجد تأثير معنوى للتدريب ببرنامج الأوتوکاد على الأتجاه نحو أهمية البرنامج فى مادة المعاطف. Utilization of computer software (AutoCAD) in building the basic model of the classic men's jacket for application in the educational process Abstract Developing the skills of students in the design of Albatron classic men's jacket in the computer and give them enough information on how to use the Atokad in the painting Patron classic men's jacket. The research sample consisted of 25 students from the fourth year of the Faculty of Home Economics University of Menoufia. The tests were carried out in the knowledge and skills and knowledge of the students' attitudes to the program before and after the training to see how the students benefited from the training. The study dealt with the research plan - the theoretical framework of the concepts of pteroons and teaching aids and the importance of using the computer in the educational process. The study also dealt with previous researches and studies related to the study variables and procedural steps related to the preparation and control of study tools and monitoring, analysis and interpretation of the results. The study found that there is a significant effect of the training on the program on the direction of students to evaluate the importance of using the program in the study of coats and that there is a significant impact of the training program Autocad towards the students when the practice of the program, and there is a significant impact of training program Autocad on the direction of the importance of the program in Article Coats.

19세기 남성복의 댄디즘을 응용한 현대 남성 재킷 디자인 연구 - 댄디즘의 미적 특성과 조형적 특징을 중심으로 -

19세기 남성복의 댄디즘을 응용한 현대 남성 재킷 디자인 연구 - 댄디즘의 미적 특성과 조형적 특징을 중심으로 -

Designing an Efficient Production System: A Case Study of a Clothing Company

This paper is based on a discrete-event simulation model and reproduces the sewing department of a clothing company involved in the fashion industry. It aims to quantitatively assess the effects of different production configurations on flow time and production capacity. In particular, the production phases of men's jackets are examined. Eight configurations are evaluated, stemming from the combination of two parameters: batch size and number of machines. For each configuration, the flow time, the production capacity and the waiting time are computed. A subsequent Design of Experiment (DoE) analysis has been performed on these configurations, with the aim of identifying significant single and combined effects of the above parameters on the results observed. The goal is to obtain improvements in the production process. The data provided by the simulation is used in order to make a critical analysis of the system production and leads to the formation of proposals for the improvement of the lay-out.

패션 컬렉션에 나타난 진패션의 형태적 디자인 특성

이 연구는 진재킷과 진팬츠에 관한 연구로 패션컬렉션에 제시된 진재킷과 진팬츠의 디자인 특성을 분석하고 활용 가능성을 모색함으로써 진패션 디자인 연구와 패션산업의 상품 기획에 기초자료를 제공하고자 한다. 2007년 S/S시즌에서 2011년 F/W시즌까지의 사진을 수집하여 통계프로그램 SPAW를 활용하여 빈도, 백분율을 사용하여 분석하였다. 연구 결과를 요약하고 결론을 정리하면 다음과 같다. 남성의 진재킷에서 심플한 디테일에 미디움길이, 사각형실루엣을 활용하고, 여성은 여성스러움을 강조한 X자형 실루엣과 쇼트길이의 다양한 디테일을 활용한다. 남성의 진팬츠는 스트레이트 실루엣과 컴포트 실루엣으로 활용하고 여성은 다양한 실루엣, 피트, 길이로 다양한 이미지로 진을 활용할 수 있을 것이다. This research was focused on jean jacket and jean pant design characteristics in the collection. To offer a basic proposal for the development of jean jackets and pants, pictures of fashion web pages from 2007 to 2011 were used, and data were analysed by the usage of the frequency and percentage of the SPAW Statistics 18. The results of the research were as follows. Men's jackets were mainly medium in length with a tetragonal silhouette and simple detail. On the contrary, women's jackets were mainly of an X silhouette, short in length, and with varied details. Men's jean pants were mainly represented by a straight, comfortable silhouette while women's jean pants were characterized by a variety of silhouettes, fit, and lengths.

Application of design for disassembly in men's jacket

PurposeCombining of natural and synthetic materials in apparel products caused problems with material recovery, reuse, recycling, or composting at the end of product life. The purpose of this paper is to investigate the application of design for disassembly methods in the design and construction of men's jacket. With this type of design, consumers and manufacturers can easily compost, recycle, or reuse different materials and components at the end of the garment's usable life.Design/methodology/approachAfter analyzing the men's jackets available in the market and identifying obstacles to disassembly, the authors designed and constructed a man's jacket that can be easily disassembled. The jacket design for disassembly focused on material selection, jacket design, and stitch evaluation and selection. The disassembly time was also measured.FindingsIt was found that minimizing material diversity and sewing similar materials together whenever possible, replacing fusible interfacing with blind hemming stitches under the collar and on the backside of the lapel, and using an appropriate low density stitch to sew the wool outer shell and polyester lining together, can make the jacket disassemble easily into a compostable outer shell and recyclable lining within 1.5 min.Originality/valueThis research provided a pilot study demonstration of applying “design for disassembly” in apparel design and construction. The findings could be employed in different apparel products to help reduce environmental pollution and resource depletion problems related to the apparel industry.

Relationship between the Actual Overfeed and Fabric Mechanical Properties on Forming Curvature of Men's Jacket

Relationship between the Actual Overfeed and Fabric Mechanical Properties on Forming Curvature of Men's Jacket

20-49세를 대상으로 성별에 따른 남성복 디자인에 관한 선호도 분석

Apparel professionals need to understand the customer to effectively develop, select, and promote apparel products. Analysis of consumer preferences can help in the creative design process. Therefore the purpose of this study was to identify consumer preference by gender in two segmented group; <TEX>$20{\sim}34$</TEX> aged group and <TEX>$35{\sim}49$</TEX> aged group toward men's apparel consumers, considering target customers and female influences on men's wear purchasing. We used questionnaires that were distributed to 600 males and females aged in their 20s to 40s, using stratified sampling method. Only 547 reliable questionnaires were selected for statistical analysis. Chi-Square and t-test were used to analyze the data, using SPSS program. We obtained the following results: 1. We found that there was a significant association between segmented age group and the preference of men's jacket style. Specially <TEX>$20{\sim}34$</TEX> aged group had a significant association with styles of formal jacket, casual t-shirts, casual pants, but <TEX>$35{\sim}49$</TEX> aged group had formal pants style. Looking at the general percentage, semi-formal jacket, slim fit t shirt, straight casual pants were the most favored styles. 2. Age has an significant effect on the preferences of formal menswear fabric patterns and shirt patterns. The results of t-test showed that there found to be significant by gender in character and check pattern of shirts. 3. In design details, the number of button had not significance by gender, and 2 buttons was th most favored by both age groups. The number of gather at the waist had an significant association in <TEX>$34{\sim}49$</TEX> age group. <TEX>$20{\sim}34$</TEX> age group prefer high waist of pants, while <TEX>$35{\sim}49$</TEX> age group prefer low waist of pants. 4. For on time outfit, formal wear and tie ensemble was the most favored with significant difference by age and gender. Formal wear and no tie ensemble favored by about one third of respondents, and more favored by the younger group. For off time outfit, casual jacket and casual pants ensemble was the most favored.

Effect of Mutual Bonding of Textile Layers on Thermal Insulation and Thermal Contact Properties of Fabric Assemblies

This paper deals with thermal insulation and thermal contact properties of woven fabric assemblies used to produce men's jackets. An important part of the paper is the description of the new computer-controlled instrument, the Alambeta, to measure insulation and thermal contact properties of fabrics. The heat flow passing between the textile sample and measuring head during thermal contact is measured directly by a special thin sensor, whose thermal inertia is similar to that of human skin. Thus, the instrument's warm-cool feeling sensitivity aproximates human skin. Spotbonding the outer fabric interlining and lining together reduces the total thermal resistance of the assembly and simultaneously increases (makes cooler) thermal absorptivity, a new parameter used to describe the warm-cool feeling of fabric. The meaning of this pa rameter, which mainly reflects the surface properties of the fabrics and whose level does not depend on experimental conditions, is explained in detail. The effect of temperature drop on the thermal properties of the fabric assemblies is also investigated. The increased resulting thermal conductivity with the average temperature of the assembly is a consequence of the increased portion of the heat transferred through the system by radiation.

RATIONAL EXPLOITATION OF FABRIC ROLLS IN APPAREL CUTTING TECHNOLOGY

This paper reports work undertaken for the rational exploitation of fabric rolls in order to be able to arrange cutting layers of fabric without leftovers or with a minimum and/or useful leftover. A computer program called “The Optimat Program”, based on theoretical and experimental considerations shown here, has been developed and used for the arrangement of cutting layers from a production fabric for men's jackets. It is concluded that such a program can bring about a considerable saving in materials during the cutting and spreading process in garment manufacture.

FABRIC MECHANICAL AND PHYSICAL PROPERTIES RELEVANT TO CLOTHING MANUFACTURE —

The mechanical properties of fabric longitudinal extension and compression, shear and bending have an important influence on the performance of fabrics during tailoring and also on the performance of garments during use. Fabrics are overfed or underfed in tailoring during the sewing operations in such a way that longitudinal compression and extension are allowed in the fabric plane in order to produce the three‐dimensional shape or fullness of the garment. Fabric buckling or puckering at the seams should not occur, or if it does, should be removed during subsequent steam pressing operations. An experiment is described to measure the maximum limit of overfeeding that is possible during seaming without the subsequent formation of seam puckers. The relationships are studied between the maximum degree of overfeed, the bias angle between the feed direction and the fabric warp or weft, fibre type and fabric mechanical properties, especially fabric formability defined as the product of fabric bending rigidity and fabric longitudinal compressibility. When fabrics are extended or compressed longitudinally at a bias angle to the warp or weft direction during seaming in order to produce garment fullness, the warp and weft threads are rotated relative to each other in such a way that a local shear deformation is applied to the fabric adjacent to the seam‐line. Measurements are reported of the variations in the local shear angle along the shoulder seam‐line of a men's jacket and the measured values are related to the high degree of overfeed required in the bias direction in this area of the garment. Finally, hygral expansion measurements for wool fabrics and yarns unravelled from the fabrics are measured and compared for six different wool fabrics.