Published in last 50 years
Articles published on Lagoon Side
- Research Article
- 10.3390/w17131991
- Jul 2, 2025
- Water
- Sebastian Spadotto + 3 more
Sea level rise (SLR) and increased urbanisation of coastal areas have exacerbated coastal flood threats, making them even more severe in important cultural sites. In this context, the role of hard coastal defences such as promenades and embankments needs to be carefully assessed. Here, a thorough investigation is conducted in Grado, one of the most significant coastal and historical towns in the Friuli Venezia Giulia region of Italy. Grado is located on a barrier island of the homonymous lagoon, the northernmost of the Adriatic Sea, and is prone to flooding from both the sea and the back lagoon. The mean and maximum sea levels from the historical dataset of Venice (1950–2023) were analysed using the Gumbel-type distribution, allowing for the identification of annual extremes based on their respective return periods (RPs). Grado and Trieste sea level datasets (1991–2023) were used to calibrate the statistics of the extremes and to calculate the local component (subsidence) of relative SLR. The research examined the occurrence of annual exceedance of the minimum threshold water level of 110 cm, indicating Grado’s initial notable marine ingression. The study includes a detailed analysis of flood impacts on the urban fabric, categorised into sectors based on the promenade elevation on the lagoon side, the most vulnerable to flooding. Inundated areas were obtained using a high-resolution digital terrain model through a GIS-based technique, assessing both the magnitude and exposure of the urban environment to flood risk due to storm surges, also considering relative SLR projections for 2050 and 2100. Currently, approximately 42% of Grado’s inhabited area is inundated with a sea level threshold value of 151 cm, which occurs during surge episodes with a 30-year RP. By 2100, with an optimistic forecast (SSP1-2.6) of local SLR of around +53 cm, the same threshold will be met with a surge of ca. 100 cm, which occurs once a year. Thus, extreme levels linked with more catastrophic events with current secular RPs will be achieved with a multi-year frequency, inundating more than 60% of the urbanized area. Grado, like Venice, exemplifies trends that may impact other coastal regions and historically significant towns of national importance. As a result, the generated simulations, as well as detailed analyses of urban sectors where coastal flooding may occur, are critical for medium- to long-term urban planning aimed at adopting proper adaptation measures.
- Research Article
1
- 10.3390/jmse12122343
- Dec 20, 2024
- Journal of Marine Science and Engineering
- Liwen Yan + 3 more
The seismic safety evaluation of artificial reef islands is of great significance for ensuring their long-term stable operation and the safety of residents’ lives. However, due to an insufficient understanding of coral reefs’ basic characteristics, current research on coral reef seismic stability neglects the influence of pore water pressure and abnormal reef layers formed during geological evolution. To further study the impact of earthquakes on coral reefs in the South China Sea, this paper takes Meiji Reef as the research object, establishes a 3-D model containing a saturated coral reef–seawater–seabed coupling system, and considers the influence of abnormally high-porosity weathered layers to study the seismic response of the coupling system in the frequency domain. The results show that ignoring the influence of pore water pressure will underestimate the impact of earthquakes on coral reefs. The seismic waves with a frequency of 4.1 Hz in the horizontal direction have a significant impact on the reef, and the side parallel to the direction of wave propagation is more affected, while the side perpendicular to the direction of wave propagation is less affected. The reef flat near the seawater side is less affected by earthquakes, while that on the lagoon side is more affected. Highly porous, weathered layers increase the seismic impact on reef flats.
- Research Article
2
- 10.1016/j.ecss.2023.108479
- Sep 7, 2023
- Estuarine, Coastal and Shelf Science
- Jun-Ho Lee + 4 more
Characteristics of sedimentation based on data from the Nakdong estuary information service system (NEISS), South Korea
- Research Article
3
- 10.1007/s11852-023-00955-x
- Jul 17, 2023
- Journal of Coastal Conservation
- Raphaelle Croteau + 2 more
Sea level rise will be a major threat to coastal communities within the next century due to the intensity and severity of the floods it can cause. A new methodology considering water infiltration, slope, and hydraulic connectivity was developed to assess the potential inundation extension associated with different total water level and sea level rise scenarios on sandy coasts. This methodology was applied for the current conditions as well as 2050 and 2100 scenarios of storm surge and high tide levels with return periods of 1 year and 100 years. The study area is Culatra village, located on the lagoon side of a barrier island in southern Portugal. The effects of shoreline evolution after the construction of a harbor and associated beach nourishment were also evaluated within the inundation scenarios. The results show that, within the study area, total water level variations caused by sea level rise have a greater influence on the inundation extension than shoreline retreat. The village appears to be safe for the current and 2050 total water level scenarios with a 1-year return period but would be highly affected by 100-year return periods, especially from 2050 onwards. This novel approach represents an improvement on more common flood mapping methods such as the bathtub approach and can be easily applied to other backbarrier environments under sea level rise or facing coastal erosion.
- Research Article
9
- 10.3389/fbuil.2021.752599
- Nov 10, 2021
- Frontiers in Built Environment
- Audrius Sabūnas + 4 more
The Pacific region consists of numerous Small Island Developing States (SIDS), one of the most vulnerable to flooding caused by compound effects of sea level rise (SLR) and storms. Nevertheless, individual studies regarding the impact assessment for SIDS, such as the low-lying Kiribati, remain scarce. This study assessed the impact of climate change-induced storm surge and SLR compounding effects on Tarawa, the most populous atoll of Kiribati, the largest coral atoll nation. It projected the impact using a combined dynamic surge and SLR model based on the IPCC AR5 RCP scenarios and 1/100 and 1/50 years return period storm events. This approach allows estimating the inundation scope and the consecutive exposed population by the end of the 21st century. The results of this study show that the pace of SLR is pivotal for Tarawa, as the sea level rise alone can claim more than 50% of the territory and pose a threat to over 60% of the population under the most intense greenhouse gas emissions scenario. Furthermore, most coasts on the lagoon side are particularly vulnerable. In contrast, the contribution of extreme events is generally minimal due to low wind speeds and the absence of tropical cyclones (TC). Despite this, it is clear the compound effects are critical and may inescapably bring drastic changes to the atoll nations by the end of this century. The impact assessment in this study draws attention to the social impact of climate change on SIDS, most notably atoll islands, and evaluates their adaptation potential.
- Research Article
26
- 10.1016/j.scitotenv.2020.143838
- Nov 20, 2020
- Science of The Total Environment
- Martin A Briggs + 5 more
Small atoll fresh groundwater lenses respond to a combination of natural climatic cycles and human modified geology
- Research Article
5
- 10.1080/17477891.2020.1840329
- Nov 5, 2020
- Environmental Hazards
- Sylvain Elineau + 5 more
ABSTRACT An interdisciplinary approach combining modelling and sketch maps was adopted in order to study coastal flooding risk in the town of Leucate on the French Mediterranean coast. Hydrodynamic modelling was used for reference maps. This innovative approach proposed three types of sketch mapping, covering historical coastal flooding, flood hazard areas, and no-flood hazard areas. Only 55% of the respondents agreed to draw at least one sketch map, demonstrating the difficulty of the exercise, and respondent maps show a global underestimation of the risk. The respondents mainly identify the risk of coastal flooding along the seafront (overtopping), but do not take into account potential overflowing on the lagoon side. Locally, experience of recent flooding in a district impacts on the perception of the coastal flooding hazard. The sketch maps were also analysed by considering two variables: district of residence and residential profile. As expected, the results highlight that the people living in the most exposed areas have a better perception of the hazard than those who are less exposed or who do not live in these areas. First- and second-home residents show very similar hazard mapping, however.
- Research Article
20
- 10.1016/j.cub.2020.02.031
- Mar 19, 2020
- Current Biology
- Sinéad M Crotty + 1 more
Facilitation cascades are chains of positive interactions that occur as frequently as trophic cascades and are equally important drivers of ecosystem function, where they involve the overlap of primary and secondary, or dependent, habitat-forming foundation species [1]. Although it is well recognized that the size and configuration of secondary foundation species' patches are critical features modulating the ecological effects of facilitation cascades [2], the mechanisms governing their spatial distribution are often challenging to discern given that they operate across multiple spatial and temporal scales [1, 3]. We therefore combined regional surveys of southeastern US salt marsh geomorphology and invertebrate communities with a predator exclusion experiment to elucidate the drivers, both geomorphic and biotic, controlling the establishment, persistence, and ecosystem functioning impacts of a regionally abundant facilitation cascade involving habitat-forming marsh cordgrass and aggregations of ribbed mussels. We discovered a hierarchy of physical and biological factors predictably controlling the strength and self-organization of this facilitation cascade across creekshed, landscape, and patch scales. These results significantly enhance our capacity to spatially predict coastal ecosystem function across scales based on easily identifiable metrics of geomorphology that are mechanistically linked to ecological processes. Replication of this approach across vegetated coastal ecosystems has the potential to support management efforts by elucidating the multi-scale linkages between geomorphology and ecology that, in turn, define spatially explicit patterns in community assembly and ecosystem functioning.
- Research Article
4
- 10.1007/s11069-019-03727-9
- Aug 14, 2019
- Natural Hazards
- G Mary Diviya Suganya + 5 more
Impacts of coastal processes and anthropogenic activities threaten the archipelago of low-lying reef islands. In this study, long-term (1972–2015) and short-term (2000–2015) shoreline change analyses of ten inhabited Lakshadweep Islands were done using linear regression rates. Of significance, the results highlight that all ten islands are erosional in the long term, with Androth Island being the highest erosional in both the periods, but it shows a stable platform in the short-term periods. More than 50% of the islands indicate shrinkage in planform change in both ocean and lagoon sides of the islands. Construction of artificial structures (seawalls/tetrapods) along the shoreline has helped to reduce the erosion in some localised areas. However, adverse effect of these armoured structures has caused loss of beaches, valuable coastal resources and marine habitats. Although natural reefs protect the lagoon side of island, it is clear that widespread erosion is along both the sides due to anthropogenic activities that are susceptible to the sea-level rise.
- Research Article
3
- 10.1016/j.ecss.2019.05.013
- May 26, 2019
- Estuarine, Coastal and Shelf Science
- Sandra Moreira + 3 more
Processes controlling morphodynamics of artificially breached barriers
- Research Article
11
- 10.1016/j.jafrearsci.2018.12.017
- Dec 21, 2018
- Journal of African Earth Sciences
- Murat Gül + 3 more
Coastal geology of Iztuzu Spit (Dalyan, Muğla, SW Turkey)
- Addendum
1
- 10.1007/s10811-015-0528-2
- Jan 25, 2015
- Journal of Applied Phycology
- Antoine De Ramon N’Yeurt + 1 more
Since 2011, the small South Pacific atoll nation of Tuvalu has been affected by algal blooms, the most recent being a large growth of the brown alga Sargassum on the main atoll of Funafuti. The gravity of the situation led to an invitation to the authors from the Tuvalu Government to conduct an initial survey of the problem in November 2013. The bloom was seen to be localized on the lagoon side of the main populated island of Fongafale, distributed in a variably dense belt up to 100 m from the shoreline. A total of 19 species of macroalgae were found in the survey area, the dominant one being the phaeophyceaen alga, Sargassum polycystum C. Agardh, with individual plants reaching up to 2 m in length with a cover ranging between 16 and 23 % of the substratum. For seven transects laid from the southern tip of the island to the end of the populated area, wet biomass ranged between 0.45 and 3.56 kg m−2, with an average of 1.68 kg m−2. There was a correlation noticed between the density of human population on the shore and algal biomass, with the highest biomass figures opposite a school and a hotel. Water quality tests also showed nutrient levels almost twice as high in front of populated areas than in unpopulated areas of the island. The algal belt was seen to be concentrated in water less than 1 m deep, becoming sparser as depth increased. The high amount of Sargassum biomass available makes it a good candidate for use as a fertiliser additive for agricultural practices in Tuvalu. Benefits from seaweed-based fertilisers are numerous, and individual farmers have already reported success with the blooms species on the atoll. Additionally, the Sargassum biomass could be converted into biogas using the process of anaerobic digestion in simple household digesters, to meet the need for renewable energy in lighting and cooking.
- Research Article
21
- 10.1007/s10811-014-0435-y
- Oct 26, 2014
- Journal of Applied Phycology
- Antoine De Ramon N’Yeurt + 1 more
Since 2011, the small South Pacific atoll nation of Tuvalu has been affected by algal blooms, the most recent being a large growth of the brown alga Sargassum on the main atoll of Funafuti. The gravity of the situation led to an invitation to the authors from the Tuvalu Government to conduct an initial survey of the problem in November 2013. The bloom was seen to be localized on the lagoon side of the main populated island of Fongafale, distributed in a variably dense belt up to 100 m from the shoreline. A total of 19 species of macroalgae were found in the survey area, the dominant one being the phaeophyceaen alga, Sargassum polycystum C. Agardh, with individual plants reaching up to 2 m in length with a cover ranging between 16 and 23 % of the substratum. For seven transects laid from the southern tip of the island to the end of the populated area, wet biomass ranged between 0.45 and 3.56 kg m−2, with an average of 1.68 kg m−2. There was a correlation noticed between the density of human population on the shore and algal biomass, with the highest biomass figures opposite a school and a hotel. Water quality tests also showed nutrient levels almost twice as high in front of populated areas than in unpopulated areas of the island. The algal belt was seen to be concentrated in water less than 1 m deep, becoming sparser as depth increased. The high amount of Sargassum biomass available makes it a good candidate for use as a fertiliser additive for agricultural practices in Tuvalu. Benefits from seaweed-based fertilisers are numerous, and individual farmers have already reported success with the blooms species on the atoll. Additionally, the Sargassum biomass could be converted into biogas using the process of anaerobic digestion in simple household digesters, to meet the need for renewable energy in lighting and cooking.
- Research Article
67
- 10.2112/jcoastres-d-12-00129.1
- Feb 20, 2013
- Journal of Coastal Research
- Marissa L Yates + 4 more
Yates, M.L.; Le Cozannet, G.; Garcin, M.; Salai, E., and Walker, P., 2013. Multidecadal atoll shoreline change on Manihi and Manuae, French Polynesia.As interest in the impact of sea-level rise on atoll islands increases, this study contributes to the growing database of observations of shoreline changes on South Pacific Islands, where few observations are currently available. Historical aerial photographs and recent satellite images were used to evaluate multidecadal surface area and shoreline changes on two atolls in French Polynesia: Manihi and Manuae. During the 40- to 50-year study period, atoll island surface area primarily increased or remained stable on Manihi and decreased on Manuae. Distinct ocean and lagoon shoreline changes were observed in different geographical regions of each atoll. On Manihi, ocean shoreline accretion rates were larger on the NW rim than the SE rim. On Manuae, atoll islands on the NE rim were eroding on the lagoon side and accreting on the ocean side, whereas islands on the SE rim showed the opposite trend. Sea-level rise is often thought to cause atoll erosion, but in this study, lagoon and ocean shorelines both eroded and accreted over a period when sea-level rise rates were greater than the global mean. Surface area changes related directly to anthropogenic activities were identified on only two of the 47 atoll islands. After completing a classification of the incident wave field, it was hypothesized that waves have an important role in controlling the shoreline change variability. Additional field surveys and in situ observations are needed to validate this hypothesis and to understand better island response to changing forcing factors.Une analyse de la mobilité du trait de côte au cours des cinquantaines dernières années a été réalisée sur deux atolls de Polynésie Franaise (Pacifique Sud): Manihi (Nord-ouest de l'archipel des Tuamotus) et Manuae (Est de l'archipel des îles de la Société). La mobilité de la limite de végétation permanente a été extraite de photographies aériennes anciennes de 1955 ou 1961 et d'images satellites à haute résolution acquises dans les années 2000. Cette analyse a nécessité le géoréférencement des photographies aériennes puis la digitalisation des limites successives de la végétation permanente. La ligne de végétation permanente a été utilisée comme marqueur des mouvements de basse fréquence du trait de côte (i.e., échelles de temps pluri-décennales). En effet, elle demeure aisément identifiable aussi bien sur les images anciennes que récentes tout en s'émancipant des variations à haute fréquence (marée, surcote etc.) et des difficultés de pointage de certains marqueurs sur les photographies anciennes. Les incertitudes liées au géoréférencement et à la digitalisation du trait de côte ont été évaluées et conduisent à ne considérer que des mouvements supérieurs à 5m sur la durée considérée. Dans de trés nombreux îlots (motu), des changements de plus grande ampleur sont observés et sont de fait sont considérés comme significatifs. Ils indiquent une tendance générale à l'érosion à Manuae et à l'accrétion à Manihi. Cependant, au sein d'un même atoll, nous observons une grande variabilité des évolutions des limites de végétation des motu : ainsi, la plupart des motu sont en accrétion côté lagon et côté océan à Manihi, toutefois, certains sont en érosion côté océan, côté lagon ou bien des deux côtés. Dans ces deux atolls peu anthropisés, les aménagements ne modifient la ligne de rivage que dans deux des 47 motu étudiés (quarante-et-un à Manihi, six à Manuae). Selon Becker et al. (2012), l'élévation du niveau marin, dans cette partie du Pacifique, a été supérieure à la moyenne globale depuis 60 ans. Des études antérieures suggèrent que l'élévation du niveau marin induit une érosion des îlots notamment sur leur face océanique. Ces effets n'apparaissent pas dominants dans les deux atolls étudiés. Au contraire, la tendance d'évolution du trait de côte obsevée n'est pas hom
- Research Article
1
- 10.2208/kaigan.69.i_736
- Jan 1, 2013
- Journal of Japan Society of Civil Engineers, Ser. B2 (Coastal Engineering)
- Takaaki Uda + 5 more
A plan of beach nourishment using coral sand and gravel on the lagoon side of Fongafale Island in Tuvalu was investigated. Field observation was carried out on June 5, 2012 and the formation of the composite slope of an offshore gentle slope covered with sand and a steep foreshore slope covered with gravel was confirmed. On the basis of this fundamental information, a method of gravel nourishment together with use of sand was investigated using the BG model. When two groins with 40 m length and an interval of 185 m were constructed along with beach nourishment, it was possible to recover the stable beach.
- Research Article
66
- 10.1007/s00338-008-0441-0
- Nov 9, 2008
- Coral Reefs
- K Fujita + 4 more
The distributions and population densities of large benthic foraminifers (LBFs) were investigated on reef flats of the Majuro Atoll, Marshall Islands. Annual sediment production by foraminifers was estimated based on population density data. Predominant LBFs were Calcarina and Amphistegina, and the population densities of these foraminifers varied with location and substratum type on reef flats. Both foraminifers primarily attached to macrophytes, particularly turf-forming algae, and were most abundant on an ocean reef flat (ORF) and in an inter-island channel near windward, sparsely populated islands. Calcarina density was higher on windward compared to leeward sides of ORFs, whereas Amphistegina density was similar on both sides of ORFs. These foraminifers were more common on the ocean side relative to the lagoon side of reef flats around a windward reef island, and both were rare or absent in nearshore zones around reef islands and on an ORF near windward, densely populated islands. Foraminiferal production rates varied with the degree to which habitats were subject to water motion and human influences. Highly productive sites (>103 g CaCO3 m−2 year−1) included an ORF and an inter-island channel near windward, sparsely populated islands, and a seaward area of a reef flat with no reef islands. Low-productivity sites (<10 g CaCO3 m−2 year−1) included generally nearshore zones of lagoonal reef flats, leeward ORFs, and a windward ORF near densely populated islands. These results suggest that the distribution and production of LBFs were largely influenced by a combination of natural environmental factors, including water motion, water depth, elevation relative to the lowest tidal level at spring tide, and the distribution of suitable substratum. The presence of reef islands may limit the distribution and production of foraminifers by altering water circulation in nearshore environments. Furthermore, increased anthropogenic factors (population and activities) may adversely affect foraminiferal distribution and production.
- Research Article
7
- 10.7773/cm.v33i4.1108
- Dec 1, 2007
- Ciencias Marinas
- J Ledesma-Vazquez + 3 more
This contribution describes and discusses the development of the Isla Coronados Pleistocene coastal deposits. The south side of the 700,000–160,000 year-old volcanic cone on Isla Coronados (Baja California Sur, Mexico) forms a shelf that converges on older Miocene andesite from the Comondú Group. Later Pleistocene carbonates accumulated on and around the antecedent topography as related by stratigraphic sections strategically located with respect to small andesite islets that formed a fixed barrier along the outer margin of a large lagoon at the foot of the volcano. Distinct facies show the progressive foundering on the island and the infilling of the lagoon about 121,000 years ago during events correlated with marine isotope substage 5e. On the seaward side of the barrier, a basal conglomerate of andesite boulders and cobbles grades into limestone with a diverse shelly fauna and whole rhodoliths in a matrix of rhodolith sand. Similar limestone is found on the lagoon side of the barrier, but features the bivalve Pina corteziana from a sheltered environment. Other facies are represented by populations of the coral Porites panamensis at different levels of growth and integration. Biocalcarenite derived from the debris of crushed rhodoliths occurs as the most extensive facies in terms of area and thickness. Sheeted layers that dip 20º off the top of the islets toward the volcano are regarded as washover deposits typical of barrier systems. A cobble pavement, interpreted as a ravinement surface, marks a widespread unconformity at the top of the biocalcarenite. This surface was the foundation for a short-lived rocky-shore biota in transition to dense growth of branching P. panamensis. The sequence ends with a thin marine terrace deposit that buried the coral thickets at the present 12-m level.
- Research Article
22
- 10.1007/s11852-007-0001-8
- Aug 9, 2007
- Journal of Coastal Conservation
- Aušrinė Armaitienė + 3 more
The varied and very dynamic landscape with a high biological diversity is a distinctive feature of the Curonian spit at the regional scale. Throughout the 20th century the main morphodynamic trend in the littoral of the Curonian spit was shoreline grading on the lagoon side, whereas on the marine side the increasing erosion at the foot of the spit, and increasing accretion at the head of the spit prevailed. The results of a discriminant analysis (Wilkes’ λ = 0.001626 and F = 29.267 when p < 0.001) show that sites with prevailing erosion, accretion and sediment input from the drifting dunes form regular inter-related spatial structures in the littoral with distinctive resulting discontinuities of the sediment drift along the lagoon coast. Dune littoral cells are characterized by Aeolian sediment input and distribution ‘down-drift’, (usually northwards) from the source. The most likely changes in the current development trends of the lagoon shore zone of the Curonian spit are related to expected climate changes and further slowing down of the dune drift. The probability of storms and ice-drift events, and their impact on coasts is expected to increase as a result of climate change. The dune advance will gradually slow down, and with it, the sand input to the coastal zone will decline. In this paper, we define integrated shoreline management as a system of long-term shoreline management measures, which is based on a littoral cell approach and aimed at harmonizing human activity in the coastal zone with the natural development of the shoreline. We propose an integrated management program for the lagoon shoreline of the Curonian spit, which is site-specific for each littoral cell as a coastal management unit. Drifting dunes and seaside beaches are the natural amenities, which are best known and best appreciated on the Curonian spit by 49% of the respondents representing the total Lithuanian population. A responsible tourism development should be considered as the key means for proper appreciation of the drifting dunes and natural coasts by society, which means to acknowledge and cherish the aesthetic and conservation values of dune and coastal landscapes of the Curonian spit as a World Heritage Site. There are at least two pre-conditions for this: (1) to provide visitors with sufficient information about diverse values and functions of the Curonian dunes and coasts within a broader regional and global heritage conservation context; (2) to enable tourists to enjoy the most impressive dune and coastal landscapes at close range. In this paper we propose to encourage active dune tourism, to reintroduce grazing into the Curonian dune areas, to restore and to preserve the most impressive landscapes of the highest white drifting dunes by bringing the blown out sand from the leeward foot of the dunes back to the crest artificially.
- Research Article
82
- 10.1306/092403740405
- May 1, 2004
- Journal of Sedimentary Research
- A B Rodriguez + 3 more
ABSTRACT The low gradient east Texas coast and inner-continental shelf, from Sabine Lake at the Texas-Louisiana border to the western end of Galveston Island, experienced extreme along-strike variations in rates of Holocene coastal retreat. Around 7.7 ka a barrier shoreline was located approximately 55 km offshore. Toward the western end of Galveston Island, the shoreline retreated 55 km, occupying a position on the lagoon side of the Island by about 5.3 ka. Toward the Texas-Louisiana border, the shoreline retreated more gradually, occupying a position seaward of Sabine Bank by 5.3 ka. Between 4.7 ka and 2.8 ka the shoreline at Sabine Bank retreated 30 km, while Galveston Island prograded seaward. Bolivar Peninsula began to accrete around 1.5 ka. Heald and Sabine banks, located on the inner continental shelf above terraced fluvial deposits of the Trinity-Sabine incised valley, are the only preserved remnants of these former shoreline positions. Fluctuating rates of sea-level rise were not the forcing mechanism behind episodes of rapid shoreline retreat because these events were localized. Rather, along-strike variations in the rate of transgression were caused by the variable inner-shelf gradients, which increase towards the west, and the orientation of the Sabine incised valley and associated terraced fluvial deposits, which trend northeast-southwest (parallel to shore). As shorelines retreated over fluvial deposits, these served as local sand sources that enabled barrier islands to persist Figure 1. Map of the east Texas inner shelf showing locations of Sabine, Heald, and Shepard banks. Paleotopographic map of the Pleistocene surface (thin contours; Siringan 1993) delineates the Trinity-Sabine incised valley, which formed during the last lowstand of sea level (Thomas and Anderson 1994). Bathymetric contours are shown as thick lines with bold numbers. Dots are core locations. End_Page 405------------------------ offshore, out of equilibrium with sea level. Once these sand sources became depleted, and/or sea level reached some critical threshold, barrier shorelines became stranded offshore as banks, and new shorelines formed landward. The geologic setting of coastal areas, specifically antecedent topography, plays a primary role in controlling coastal evolution. To accurately forecast long-term (centennial to millennial) coastal evolution, it is essential that impacts associated with variations in the underlying geology of coastal areas be incorporated into coastal forecasting models.
- Research Article
17
- 10.2113/175.1.35
- Jan 1, 2004
- Bulletin de la Société Géologique de France
- RaphaëL Certain + 4 more
Abstract A very high resolution seismic investigation has for the first time allowed the imaging of the sedimentary infill of a Mediterranean lagoon. The Leucate lagoon is part of a lagoon system located along the shore of the western Gulf of Lions, from the Rhone delta to the Spanish border. These lagoons are separated and protected from the sea by sandy barriers, also called lidos, which are the result of a process of shore regularization by waves. The seismic data, obtained by using a boomer-Seistec, coupled with lithological and radiocarbon data [Martin, 1978] previously collected from cores, have revealed three main sedimentary formations : The basal formation represents the substratum of the lagoon and the middle and upper formations its infill. The basal formation displays a very uniform seismic facies with reflectors almost constantly dipping towards the sea. It comprises conglomeratic sediments and is interpreted as a progradating fluvio-deltaïc formation. Its upper surface is erosional and is locally deeply incised. In the shallowest parts of the lagoon, where the basal formation almost emerges, its upper part is reworked by modern processes into multiple cut-and-fill structures. The middle formation overlaps the basal formation, and constitutes the main depositional unit of the lagoon fill (up to 20 ms twtt thick). The seismic facies are variable and correspond to sand and clay sediments deposited under fluvio-lagoonal to lagoonal and marine conditions. The upper formation represents the upper part of the infill. It rests above the middle formation through a conformable surface, locally slightly erosional, and overlaps the basal formation along the western rim and in the shallowest parts of the basin. The thickness of this upper formation does not exceed 3mst wtt. It mainly consists of clay sediments of lagoonal origin. The main characteristic of this upper formation is a thin sole of very dense sand at the base. This bed is also a remarkable seismic reflector, and is interpreted as resulting from the maximum marine flooding of the system. This occurs before the beginning of the barrier construction, and the progressive closure of the lagoon. Another remarkable aspect of the upper formation is the simultaneity of its basal part with the lido construction. In this upper unit, the seismic data allow the imaging of the lateral passing between the planar bedded sediments of the infill, with the sigmoidal beds representing washover fans that construct the lagoonal side of the lido. The uppermost part of the formation represents the final and present-day stage of the lagoonal infill since the final closure by the barrier. Dating, performed on cored sediments, allow the sediments of the basal formation to be assigned to the Middle Pleistocene (with no more precision). The erosion of the top of the basal formation is interpreted as fluvial incision during the last sea level fall. The lagoon infilling is of Holocene age and comprises two stages : the first and main stage corresponds to fluvio- to marino-lagoonal sedimentation, and occurred before 6,000 B.P. The second corresponds to the recent to modern infilling that began around 4,000 B.P. with the construction of the lido and the closure of the lagoon. The two stages are clearly separated by a period of maximum marine flooding. The thickness of the lagoon fill is relatively limited, probably no more than 20 m.