Research incorporating the analysis of glucocorticoids, specifically cortisol, in hair samples has exploded over the past 10–15 years, yet factors contributing to the accumulation of cortisol in hair are not yet fully characterized. In particular, it is not clear whether cortisol accumulation in hair is dependent on hair growth rate, a possibility raised by prior rodent studies reporting glucocorticoid-mediated inhibition of hair growth. Using rhesus macaque monkeys (Macaca mulatta), an extensively studied nonhuman primate species, the present pilot study evaluated the hypothesis that hair cortisol accumulation is inversely related to hair growth rate (i.e., slower hair growth leading to elevated cortisol levels). Hair samples were collected from 19 adult female macaques and 17 infants (9 males) 3 months apart using a shave-reshave procedure from the same site below the posterior vertex of the scalp. The second hair samples were measured to the nearest millimeter (mm) for growth rate over the previous 3 months and assayed for hair cortisol concentrations (HCCs) using enzyme immunoassay. Because of the possibility of age-related differences in hair growth rate, correlational analyses were performed separately for adults and infants to determine whether HCC values were associated with growth rate in each age group. These analyses revealed that neither group displayed a significant correlation of HCCs with hair growth. The results additionally showed that overall, adults had a faster hair growth rate than infants and, as expected from previous studies, had lower HCCs than infants. Our results suggest that higher HCCs within the non-stress range do not result from cortisol-mediated inhibition of hair growth. Moreover, similarities between humans and macaque monkeys in both HPA axis regulation and hair growth rates argue that these findings are relevant for human hair cortisol studies. Extrapolation to other species in which the features of hair growth and the relevant regulatory mechanisms are less well understood should be done with caution.
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