Garment Surface Research Articles

A new approach to quantify the thermal shrinkage of fire protective clothing after flash fire exposure

Fire protective clothing made of inherent flame resistant materials shrinks easily when exposed to flash fire. This thermally induced shrinkage affects the thermal protective performance. Methods to evaluate the thermal shrinkage of fire protective garments are under development and there are currently no documentary standards available. The aim of this paper is to provide an effective method to accurately determine the shrinkage magnitude of fire protective clothing after flash fire exposure. This method involved a portable three-dimensional (3D) body scanner that could be mounted into the flame chamber to capture the 3D images of the nude and clothed manikin immediately before and after exposure. Based on the advanced post-processing techniques, the 3D images of the clothed manikin pre- and post-exposure were compared, and thermal shrinkage of the garment was characterized by three parameters, namely garment surface area change and volume and thickness change of the air layers entrapped between the manikin and garment. This method was supposed to provide basic knowledge for the quantitative research into the effect of thermal shrinkage on thermal protective performance.

Fibre persistence on immersed garment—Influence of knitted recipient fabrics

The persistence of fibre traces is a critical factor in the evaluation of fibre findings in forensic casework. Many persistence studies have examined the loss of fibre traces on living subjects or on bodies exposed to open-air conditions but none of them have ever considered bodies in underwater conditions. This first part of a larger study focuses on the persistence of transferred fibres on various recipient garments during an immersion/emersion process as the common step to all casework involving underwater conditions. A smooth polyester garment leads to weak persistence values around 20%, while higher persistence values, ranging between 80% and 90%, are obtained for more structured and textured garments (cotton T-shirts, fleece and acrylic pullovers). More textured garments are thus less affected by the immersion/emersion process and fibre findings are closer to their initial amount and distribution before immersion. The amount of protruding fibres and the density of the rough fibrous network at the surface of the recipient garment are both key factors that increase the persistence value. Therefore, these factors should be taken into account when evaluating fibre evidence recovered on immersed bodies.

Validation of a novel 3D scanning method for determination of the air gap in clothing

Nowadays, methods to determine the air gap thickness based on the 3D body scanning lack an extensive evaluation of the measurement uncertainty imposed by the scanner and computational algorithms. In our study, we propose an evaluation strategy for full body scanning techniques using two 3D scanners: Vitus XXL and Artec MHT.The performance evaluation of the 3D scanner together with the accompanying post-processing method included the repeatability of the 3D scanner for complex anatomic shapes, and determination of fabric thickness and contact area.Our newly developed method, which includes scanning, post-processing of scans and the determination of distance between skin and garment surfaces, is highly repeatable in case of both scanners (up to 1mm depending on the scanner). The method can account for the thickness of fine fabrics of the same thickness magnitude as the scanner accuracy, which resulted in accurate determination of the garment contact area.

A Novel Garment Prototyping Algorithm

New production techniques need to be developed in the clothing industry to satisfy the demands of customers. In this paper, a new algorithm, which can transform 3D surface of the prototype garment to 2D cutting pattern, was developed. The corresponding feature points with 2D prototype pattern were defined manually using 3D cursor on the body in advance. Further 3D wireframe of garment prototype was created by connecting feature points. The final pattern of the prototype was obtained by flattening geometrically 3D wireframe of each zone. The visual assessment was also made and proved the algorithm validity. This approach improved the flattened pattern practicality.

Design 3D garments for scanned human bodies

We present a 3D garment design method for scanned human bodies. First, a slicing method is proposed to reconstruct a symmetric body from a scanned human body to make it suitable for garment design. Second, a sketch modeling method is used to interactively create a garment surface based on the symmetric body. Third, seam lines are drawn on the garment surface, and then a flattening algorithm is employed to design 2D patterns. Finally, a seam line template is used to design the same style of garments for different bodies. Experiments show that the resulting garment fits the scanned body well. Our method provides an efficient design tool for customizing garments in the fashion industry.

The control of human thermal comfort by the smart clothing

Generally, human thermal comfort depends on combinations of clothing structure and chemical nature of fibers, external conditions and factors related to wearer. Thermal comfort of a clothing system is associated with thermal balance of body and its thermoregulatory responses to the dynamic interactions with the clothing and the environment, and can be quantified in terms of Met and Clo units. One of the important functions of clothing is to provide adequate thermal comfort for wellness and high performance. To do this research, clothing with an integrated human microclimate regulating electrical system has been developed. The clothing contains: Peltier elements, which provide cooling effect; electronic control system with heat sensor – thermistor, which controls the optimal operating parameters, and energy source. The aim of experiments is to verify, how the cooling system, integrated in the clothes, influences indicators of the human microclimate. For this reason, the experiments of wearing by the appropriate operating conditions are carried out by measuring temperature changes in different locations in space between the body and clothes during activities. The analysis of experimental results reveals the system's operational efficiency as well as the negative impact of non-evaporative materials on the possibility of vapour removal through the garment surface.

Diffusion of jojoba oil microencapsulated and impregnated onto compressive garment through a pig skin

Scientific developments are in progress in order to create compressive fabric in the medical field. This study focused on the development of a compressive garment in polyamide designated for severe burns in terms of pressure and hydration release. The fabric was then enhanced by adding a moisturizing treatment. The improvement consisted of the impregnation of ethylcellulose microcapsules containing jojoba oil on the textile surface of compressive garment. The kinetic of release of this active ingredient from the microcapsules, as well as its diffusion through the skin, were assessed using the in vitro Franz diffusion cell system. The results showed a controlled release of jojoba oil over time. The amount of oil released during the experiments (168 h) and that which penetrated through the pig skin did not exceed 1% of the total amount of jojoba oil microencapsulated and impregnated on the surface of a compression garment. This study permitted to obtain a compressive garment which presents hydration properties.

Introducing Old-look, Soft Handle, Flame Retardant, and Anti-bacterial Properties to Denim Garments Using Nano Clay

In this paper, nano clay as a novel garment finishing technique termed “nano-washing,” was applied to cotton denim garments and compared with conventional washing involving amylase and cellulase. Color changes of the garment samples were investigated by using a reflectance spectrophotometer and the garment surfaces were observed by Scanning Electron Microscopy. Air permeability, crease recovery angle, bending strength, abrasion resistance, thermal properties, and antibacterial activity of the treated samples were investigated and reported. It was found that treatment of denim garment with nano clay produced old look garment with soft handle, enhanced thermal and rubbing or washing fastness properties. Overall, this novel nano-washing process on the denim garment was an easy, economical, and simple method with a great deal of advantages.

Three-Dimensional Garment Surface Reconstruction Based on Ball-Pivoting Algorithm

After 3D garment surface resampling, the topological graph of the resampling points should be reconstructed, that is a new triangular mesh can be generated. We exploit automatic method to generate topology of the mesh with total number of resampling points. In our approach, based and ball-pivoting algorithm based surface reconstruction techniques are introduced respectively, has an accurate shape approximated the original resampling points cloud, but exists large unwanted components. The ball-pivoting algorithm is selected to reconstruct the topological graph, as the principle is simple, the ball with given radius can pivot along an existing edge to touch another point to shape a new triangle. Eventually the 3D garment surface mesh reconstructed by the ball-pivoting algorithm has regular and uniform visual effect.

Designing approximation minimal parametric surfaces with geodesics

Geodesic is an important curve in practical application, especially in shoe design and garment design. In practical applications, we not only hope the shoe and garment surfaces possess characteristic curves, but also we hope minimal cost of material to build surfaces. In this paper, we combine the geodesic and minimal surface. We study the approximation minimal surface with geodesics by using Dirichlet function. The extremal of such a function can be easily computed as the solutions of linear systems, which avoid the high nonlinearity of the area function. They are not extremal of the area function but they are a fine approximation in some cases.

Embellishment of Fashion Design via Laser Engraving

In today’s fashion world, technology has taken on an important role for the creation of novel design effects. As a type of digital technology, laser engraving is applied for decorative purposes with unique fashion design looks. With this technology, simple and complex patterns can be engraved onto the surface of garments by using laser beam scanning. This study explores the application of laser technology on assembled garments for diverse engraved patterns. To improve the visual appearance, different design methods, such as the graphic and resist methods, are applied for carbon dioxide (CO2) laser engraving onto garments made from rayon/polyester blended fabric with optimal laser engraving parameters, including resolution (dpi) and pixel time (μs). This study also reveals the many potential of fashion designs through the use of laser engraving technology. Based on computer-aided design, laser engraving could open up new possibilities for green fashion design with distinct patterns and textures that would cater to the demands of industries and consumers.

The Analysis of Garment Surface Accessory on Uniform Elements in the Modern Women’s Clothing Design

The military element is widely used as the design element of modern clothing in fashion design. This paper describes the uniform element from the aspect of application of uniform fabrics and uniform accessories.

New sorbic-type quaternary ammonium single-chain and gemini polymerizable surfactants: Synthesis, interfacial properties and anti-electrostatic activity

In the present work new sorbic acid amphiphilic derivatives are characterized. One single-chain quaternary ammonium bromide bearing sorbic group, sorbyloylundecyltrimethyl ammonium bromide, and three analogical double-chain, so-called gemini, surfactants with propylene, butylene and hexylene spacers were obtained. Chemical data, interfacial activity (CMC values: 2.3–12.3mM) and micellar properties were investigated for both single-chain and gemini compounds.Cationic surfactants include a positively charged nitrogen atom, which is able to conduct charges, and thus quaternary salts are known for their anti-electrostatic properties. It is very important, especially in a low hygroscopic atmosphere with a high dust level, to easily conduct any charge from the surface of protective garments, i.e. glasses, clothing and other objects. Synthesized compounds revealed very good or excellent capacities to neutralize charges appearing on polyethylene and polypropylene surfaces. The values of surface resistance Rs (0.001–9×1011Ω), charge half-decay times τ1/2 (0.20–8.70s) and induced potentials Uind (46–850V) of these polymers impregnated with surfmers are presented. However, these were only the results appearing before the first wash. Compounds presented in the work were designed to be able to polymerize. The presence of a polymerizable sorbic group at the hydrophobic terminal allowed us to prepare a layer on the surface of polymers, by impregnating foil and fabric with surfmer solutions and direct UV irradiation polymerization processes. Unpolymerized layers can be washed off the polymeric surfaces, but after irradiation conductive properties are still acceptable even after washing, especially on polypropylene.

Mesh topology in scanned garment reconstruction

PurposeThe purpose of this paper is to investigate the draping behavior of a scanned garment model in irregular and regular mesh topology. 3D garment with high fidelity can be obtained via range data scanning. The original output of a body scanner is an unorganized points cloud. In this paper, the geometrical surface of 3D garment is reconstructed through a series of treatments.Design/methodology/approachThe primary target of this work is to investigate the dynamic behavior of the corresponding physical model transferred from different mesh topologies. A mass‐spring model is constructed for both regular and irregular meshes. The performance under various integration methods is evaluated.FindingsExperimental results reveal the procedure of regularization is suitable for the integrators that are sensitive to the physically‐based simulation of scanned garments.Originality/valueThe geometrical surface of 3D garment is reconstructed through a series of treatments solving the problem of points cloud data for high definition 3D data.

Study of the influence of matter and finishing treatments on the denim garment shade

PurposeThe purpose of this paper is to study the effect of matter, laundering types, special treatments and their succession applied during the manufacturing process of garment washing on the cloth shade.Design/methodology/approachDenim garment manufacturers are interested in finishing cloth to characterizes the aging look of the cloth. The effect of matter, laundering, special treatments and their succession were studied. The treatments have been done on manufactured trousers. One rigorous statistical study is achieved to validate the experimental results.FindingsThe mixed washing is the most degrading for the shade of cloth and appearance of the garment's surface and the succession of special treatments of finishing is demanded to have an increasing whiteness. The finishing resin‐treatment realized before any washing process (stone washing or mixed washing) provokes a slight increase of garment colour resistance.Practical implicationsInformation from this study will aid manufacturers of garment washing jeans in selecting the finishing method that suits their marketing/manufacturing plants.Originality/valueGarment washing is a technology incorporated by garment manufacturers to be able to provide a product in response to consumer's wants. This study of the effect of matter, washing type, special treatments and their succession on garment denim blue jeans shade provides garment manufacturers with information about the methodical line of finishing to obtain the wanted cloth shade.

On generating realistic avatars: dress in your own style

The use of 3D avatars is becoming more frequent with the development of computer technology and the internet. To meet users' requirements, some software or programs have allowed users to customize the avatar. However, users are only able to customize the avatar using the pre-defined accessories such as hair, clothing and so on. That is, users have limited chance to customize the avatar according to their own styles. It will be of interest to users if they are able to change the appearance of the avatar by their own design, such as creating garments for avatars themselves. This paper provides an easy solution to dressing realistic 3D avatars for non-professional users based on a sketch interface. After a user drawing a 2D garment profile around the avatar, the prototype system can generate an elaborate 3D geometric garment surface dressed on the avatar. The construction of the garment surface is constrained by key body features. And the garment shape is then optimized to remove artefacts. The proposed method can generate a uniform mesh for processing such as mesh refinement, 3D decoration and so on.

Customer participating 3D garment design for mass personalization

This paper presents customer participating 3D garment design methods for mass personalization. Complex fashion design is separated into garment surface modeling, pattern designing and texture mapping. Based on the modularization of the garment, we propose a component option sheet to describe the Garment surface Style (GS). Customers can choose components flexibly to construct a basic GS fast. Individual GS can be further modeled by editing the contour curves. Thus, we encode contour curves to save GS information and construct a GS library. The user can drag a favorite GS onto a 3D mannequin model and recover it by decoding the contour curves as a prototype for individual surface design. The users can also draw or drag style curves freely on a 3D triangular garment surface to design individual 3D pattern styles. Total or partial style curves encoding/decoding methods are proposed to store the 3D Pattern Style (PS), and to form a library. Customers can also choose a favorite PS and decode them on another garment surface as a prototype for individual pattern design. Through flexible choices from the garment component library, GS library, PS library, and simply dragging or drawing of contour curves and style curves, customers can easily and conveniently participate in 3D garment design for mass personalization.

Critical heat stress evaluation of clothing ensembles with different levels of porosity

A common metric of assessing the evaporative cooling potential of protective clothing is to assess the rate of diffusion of water vapour through the fabric. Another mechanism that supports evaporative cooling is convective transfer. Prototype porous coveralls were constructed to promote convective air flow with 0.0024 mm (0.06 inch) holes representing nominal openings of 0, 1, 2, 5, 10 and 20% of the garment surface area (called P00, P01, P02, P05, P10 and P20). The purpose of this study was to evaluate the ability of these porous coverall configurations to support evaporative cooling. The assessment measures were critical wet bulb globe temperature (WBGT) and apparent evaporative resistance via a progressive heat stress protocol. There was a progressive increase in critical WBGT with increases in convective permeability for P00, Saratoga™ Hammer, P01, work clothes and P02. There was no further increase for P05, P10 and P20. A similar pattern was found for diffusive permeability, with the exception of Saratoga™ Hammer, which suggested that the convective permeability could explain evaporative cooling better than diffusive permeability. Statement of Relevance: Protective clothing often interferes with evaporative cooling and thus increases the level of heat stress. While increased diffusion of water vapour is associated with lower evaporative resistances, the convective movement of water vapour is a dominant mechanism and better explains the role of the clothing in heat stress.

Applying finite element analysis to compression garment development

Finite element analysis (FEA) techniques have been successfully integrated into the development of a variety of sports products, such as athletic footwear, for many years. This paper reports on the possibility of using FEA to assist the development of technical apparel, specifically compression garments. Of particular interest to the pattern engineer and developer are the strain in the garment fabric and the compression given to the wearer. FEA of apparel presents some unique challenges due to the nature of the materials involved and the complex interaction between body and garment. Two dimensional fabric pieces are assembled into a three-dimensional garment in a process akin to sewing. A three dimensional scanned body provides the form around which the garment is virtually assembled and analyzed. Simulated distributions of material strain and pressure on the body are presented. Results of simple simulations are validated against experimental evidence from studies using an optical strain measurement system. Good correlation is evident between simulated and experimentally measured strain on the garment. The ability to simulate garment surface strain and pressure against the body prior to the manufacture of a physical garment is anticipated to be of significant benefit to pattern engineers and garment developers.

Design of a force acquisition system for high-energy short-duration impacts

This paper describes a novel force acquisition system capable of measuring the force profiles of high-energy short-duration impacts. This force acquisition system was used to test dynamically a cricket leg guard and to create a contour map of the peak transmitted forces across the garment's surface. The cricket leg guard was found to provide most protection in the central shin and knee regions, areas most likely to be impacted normally and so to receive the highest-energy impacts. The use of this system will enable a dynamic test procedure to be developed to mimic impact conditions encountered during a game, allowing optimization of cricket pad designs for specific impacts.