A Paradox Relating to the Costume Designer Radoslav Lazić, Stage Director and Professor Of the many paradoxes associated with theater designers, the work of a costume designer seems to be the source of greatest admiration. The paradox of aesthetics within this complex artistic activity becomes even more pronounced due to the fact that the design of theatrical costumes manifests itself in a triple form: first as sketches, then as costumes, and lastly as stand-alone design exhibits. The costume designer must first draw the costumes for the dramatis personae, defining them by means of color according to historical accuracy and contemporary taste (figure 1).1 Amazingly, a costume designer's creative endeavor produces the greatest creative and aesthetic energy, and in theatrical practice, their artistic works are termed "costume sketches" (figure 2). This is the first aspect of the costumer's paradox. In the tailor's workshop, costume sketches are used to make the patterns that will fit the performing artists and the roles they will play on stage (figure 3). The actual costumes are made of fabrics, which take the selected models, style, historical accuracy, and characters into account (figure 4). Costume sketches give rise to the making of garments, footwear, jewelry, and other accessories to be worn by the characters on stage (figure 5). After the costumes are made, the sketches then sink into oblivion, surviving only in the theater archives or in the costume designer's collection (figure 6). On the stage, however, one encounters only the costumes, which are an integral part of the performance. Accordingly, costume sketches are forgotten, whereas actual costumes are remembered. This is another aspect of the paradox arising from the profession of costume design (figure 7). Finally, the third aspect of this paradox can be seen in the exhibition of costume designs. Appearing as an independent form of applied art and theatrical design, a sketch has now become an artifact and a work of art, which we look at in admiration [End Page 217] of its author and the aesthetics of their "palette" (figure 8). Costume sketches have become works of art, the exclusive record of the art of a costume designer and, even more so, of a theatrical performance and its ephemeral life (figure 9). While celebrating the fruitful artistic endeavors of Milanka Berberović, a costume designer and professor of costume design at the Faculty of Applied Arts and Design, I remember with nostalgia the beginning of my own career as a director. We started our career together in the (then) Contemporary Theatre in Belgrade, working on Petar Kočić's drama Jazavac pred sudom (The Badger in Court), she as a costume designer and I as a stage director. Milanka Berberović has designed the costumes for more than 100 performances, theatrical, televised, and otherwise (figure 10). Many productions have vanished according to the law of theatrical life, always ephemeral, but costume sketches survive as a valuable aesthetic record of this fine costume designer, an expert in the history and theory of costume design and an exceptional practitioner of a complex theatrical art. In addition to her skill, charm, and diligence, Milanka Berberović distinguishes herself by a highly developed style of artistic expression (figure 11). As the most outstanding representative of the contemporary Belgrade School of Costume Design, she can also take pride in her artistic creation amid "theatrical chaos," as well as morality and concern for the art of costume design. Costume sketches are the designer's authentic, lasting artistic works. Milanka Berberović's world of theater design is an exceptional creative endeavor which continues to live its own life through the surviving costume sketches. Indeed, the paradox associated with the art of a costume designer is amazing (figure 12). [End Page 218] Click for larger view View full resolution Figure 1. Miladin Ševarlić, Karadjordje, sketch for the costume of Karadjordje. [End Page 219] Click for larger view View full resolution Figure 2. William Shakespeare, The Tempest, sketch for the costume of Caliban. [End Page 220] Click for larger view View full resolution Figure 3. Guiseppe Verdi, Attila, sketch for the costume of Odabella. [End Page 221] Click for larger view View full resolution Figure 4. Branislav Nuši...
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