Cosmetic Science Research Articles

Current Controversies in the Biological Sciences—Case Studies of Policy Challenges from New Technologies – By Karen F. Grief and J. F. Merz

Current Controversies in the Biological Sciences—Case Studies of Policy Challenges from New Technologies – By Karen F. Grief and J. F. Merz

The International Journal of Cosmetic Science Publication Prize

International Journal of Cosmetic ScienceVolume 32, Issue 3 p. 239-240 The International Journal of Cosmetic Science Publication Prize First published: 04 May 2010 https://doi.org/10.1111/j.1468-2494.2010.00590.xRead the full textAboutPDF ToolsRequest permissionExport citationAdd to favoritesTrack citation ShareShare Give accessShare full text accessShare full-text accessPlease review our Terms and Conditions of Use and check box below to share full-text version of article.I have read and accept the Wiley Online Library Terms and Conditions of UseShareable LinkUse the link below to share a full-text version of this article with your friends and colleagues. Learn more.Copy URL Share a linkShare onFacebookTwitterLinked InRedditWechat No abstract is available for this article. Volume32, Issue3June 2010Pages 239-240 RelatedInformation

In vivomeasurement of the human epidermal thickness in different localizations by multiphoton laser tomography

The in vivo measurement of epidermal thickness is still challenging. While ultrasound, optical coherence tomography and confocal laser microscopy are used with moderate success, this issue has not been addressed by multiphoton laser tomography. In the present study, an in vivo measurement of four different morphometric epidermal parameters is performed. Thirty healthy volunteers aged 21-82 years were included in the study after informed consent and approval of the local ethics committee. At the dorsal forearm and the dorsum of the hand, the thicknesses of the total epidermis, viable epidermis and stratum corneum and the depth of the papillary dermis were calculated from depth-resolved intensity curves after correlation with multiphoton images. We have shown consistently that in all age groups, the four morphometric parameters are significantly higher at the hand compared with the forearm, while there were no differences between age groups. This is consistent with most previous findings. The method presented here provides a novel in vivo investigation tool for the measurement of epidermal morphometric parameters that may be useful for the observation of epidermal changes over time in skin disorders, therapy side effects or in cosmetic science.

Handbook of Cosmetic Science and Technology, 3rd Edition.

Handbook of Cosmetic Science and Technology, 3rd Edition.

Prospective ultramorphological characterization of human hair by optical coherence tomography

The continuous advancement in cosmetic science has led to an increasing demand for the development of non-invasive, reliable scientific techniques directed toward claim substantiation, which is of utmost relevance, to obtain data regarding the efficacy and safety of cosmetic products. In this work, we used the optical coherence tomography (OCT) technique to produce in vitro transversal section-images of human hair. We also compared the OCT signal before and after chemical treatment with an 18% w/w ammonium thioglycolate solution. The mean diameter of the medulla was 29+/-7 microm and the hair diameter was 122+/-16 microm in our samples of standard Afro-ethnic hair. A three-dimensional (3D) image was constructed starting from 601 cross-sectional images (slices). Each slice was taken in steps of 6.0 microm at eight frames per second, and the entire 3D image was constructed in 60 s. It was possible to identify, using the A-scan protocol, the principal structures: the cuticle, cortex and medulla. After chemical treatment, it was not possible to identify the main structures of hair fiber due to index matching promoted by deleterious action of the chemical agent.

Adhesion, friction and wear characterization of skin and skin cream using atomic force microscope

Skin cream is commonly used to improve skin health and create a smooth, soft, and moist perception by altering the surface roughness, friction, and adhesion of skin surface. In this study, a systematic characterization of the friction and adhesion properties of skin and skin cream was carried out, which is essential to develop better skin care products and advance biological, dermatology, and cosmetic science. Since cream rheology is expected to be a function of its thickness as well as the velocity and normal load during its application, friction and adhesion experiments were performed at a range of cream film thickness, velocity, and normal load in order to study their effect on virgin skin and cream treated skin. Since environmental dependence of skin and skin cream is of importance, the effect of relative humidity and temperature on the coefficient of friction and adhesive force was also studied. Durability of the virgin skin and cream treated skin was studied by repeated cycling tests. These experiments were performed by using an atomic force microscope (AFM) and a macroscale friction test apparatus in order to study the scale effects. Friction and wear mechanisms under various operating conditions are discussed.

An innovative method to measure skin pigmentation

It is crucial to establish an accurate method for measuring skin pigmentation in cosmetic science and clinical dermatology. Here, we report a non-invasive precise method for measuring skin melanin content. In order to determine the concentrations of melanin and hemoglobin in skin, we used the spectrum resolution (SR) method. In brief, the absorption spectrum of the skin was calculated from the reflection spectrum using a spectrophotometer. The concentrations of melanin and hemoglobin were then determined using a multiple regression analysis, assuming that the absorption spectrum of the skin is expressed as a linear summation of the absorptions of melanin and hemoglobin according to the Lambert-Beer law. The skin changes in the volar forearm, which had been irradiated by ultraviolet rays (UV), were observed daily by the SR method. A multiple regression analysis with an absorption spectrum of 500-700 nm was performed. The multiple correlation coefficient was 0.993, resulting in a satisfactory precise estimate of the concentrations of melanin. After UV irradiation, the concentration of melanin monitored by the SR method increased until 8 days and decreased gradually afterwards. The SR method allows the evaluation of the changes of epidermal melanin induced by UV irradiation.

Coenzyme Q10 has anti‐aging effects on human hair

IFSCC Magazine, 11 (2008) (1) 37–42Ubiquinones are the most widespread and therefore best investigated bioquinones. Due to their hydrophobic isoprenoid side chain, ubiquinones can be solubilized in organic solvents or lipids but are insoluble in water. Using a specific emulsifier system it has been possible to deliver positive effects to biological systems also from aqueous formulations. Ubiquinone‐50, also referred to as coenzyme Q10, is well known in cosmetic science and especially in skin care because of its antioxidant activity. It is found in the membranes of peroxisomes, lysosomes, vesicles, the endoplasmic reticulum and notably in the inner membrane of the mitochondrion, where it is an important part of the electron transport chain. Using coenzyme Q10 in the proposed emulsifier system we could show that the molecule not only has relevance as an anti‐aging bioactive in skin care but also has positive effects on the human hair follicle. The hair follicle is a complex mini organ and synthesis of hair keratin, the major component of hair fibers, is an essential prerequisite for the growth of strong and healthy hair. But like all biological systems the hair follicle, the biologically active part of the hair, also undergoes an aging process associated among other things with a decline in certain hair keratins. Due to this age‐related shift in basic structural proteins of the hair shaft, mature hair often becomes fragile and difficult to manage. Therefore it is a challenge for cosmetic science to provide bioactives to fight age‐related changes and maintain a youthful appearance of hair. Using cultivated hair follicle keratinocytes we identified coenzyme Q10 as a potent bioactive that stimulates the gene expression of different hair keratins, especially those which are reduced during aging processes in hair follicles. These results led us to investigate a shampoo and a tonic formulation enriched with coenzyme Q10 in a placebo‐controlled panel study. In a left/right comparison a group of healthy volunteers older than 40 years of age applied the formulations daily for 4 days. Throughout the test period the gene expression of different hair keratins from plucked hair follicles was determined using quantitative polymerase chain reaction techniques. Subsequent statistical analysis revealed an increase in age‐relevant hair keratins in human hair roots treated with coenzyme Q10, thus pointing out the striking benefits of coenzyme Q10 in hair care formulations. We conclude that coenzyme Q10 is an ideal ingredient for hair care formulations, providing anti‐aging properties through activation of specific keratins aligned with the needs of mature hair.

J. Cosmet. Sci., 59, 151–156 (March/April 2008) Comparison of hair shaft damage after UVA and UVB irradiation

SynopsisSunlight, especially ultraviolet (UV) light‐induced hair damage is difficult to avoid during daily life. Concerns about the effects of ultraviolet light on hair are emerging recently. These photochemical changes mainly come from damage to hair proteins and melanins. In this study, we performed experiments to find the patterns of morphological and biochemical changes in UV‐light‐induced damage to hair by scanning and transmission electron microscopy and hair protein analysis. In our results, morphological damage is significant in UVB‐irradiated hairs, while biochemical changes are greater in UVA‐irradiated hairs. J. Cosmet. Sci., 59, 157–158 (March/April 2008)Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Chemists JapanVol. 41, No. 4, 2007* J. Cosmet. Sci., 59, 159–161 (March/April 2008)International Journal of Cosmetic ScienceVol. 29, No 6, 2007* J. Cosmet. Sci., 59, 163–164 (March/April 2008)IFSCC MagazineVol. 10, No. 4, 2007* J. Cosmet. Sci., 59, 165–166 (March/April 2008)Journal of the Polish Society of Cosmetic Science“Wiadomos´ci PTK”Vol. 10, No. 4, 2007* J. Cosmet. Sci., 59, 167–194 (March/April 2008)Papers Presented at the 2007 Annual Scientific Meeting and Technology Showcase(Friday's Program)December 6–7, 2007New York HiltonNew York, NY

Emerging Role of Microemulsions in Cosmetics

Microemulsions represent a promising carrier system for cosmetic active ingredients due to their numerous advantages over the existing conventional formulations. They are capable of solubilizing both hydrophilic and lipophilic ingredients with relatively higher encapsulation. There is growing recognition of their potential benefits in the field of cosmetic science in addition to the drug delivery. They are now being widely investigated for preparing personal care products with superior features such as having improved product efficiency, stability or appearance. They are well suited for the preparation of various cosmetic products for use as moisturizing and soothing agents, as sunscreens, as antiperspirants and as body cleansing agents. They are also valuable for use in hair care compositions which ensure a good conditioning of the hair as well as good hair feel and hair gloss. They have also found application in after shave formulations which upon application to the skin provide reduced stinging and irritation and a comforting effect without tackiness. These newer formulations elicit very good cosmetic attributes and high hydration properties with rapid cutaneous penetration which may accentuate their role in topical products. These smart systems are also suitable for perfuming purposes where minimum amount of organic solvents is required, such as for perfuming skin or hair. This article highlights the recent innovations in the field of microemulsion technology as claimed by different patents which can bring unique products with great commercial prospects in a very competitive and lucrative global cosmetic market.

My first year of experience in the cosmetic field – problems and future hopes

Citation: IFSCC Magazine, 10 (2007) (4) 331–3336Where do I begin to tell my adventures as a new research and development chemist? It has been a mixed bag of excitement, frustration, hope, pride in achievement and much potential. Before I take you through the obstacle course that I have been exposed to in the cosmetic industry let me give you background information on myself. I have always been inclined towards the sciences. I took up science subjects for my A‐Level Cambridge exams, but surprised my father for a little while by registering for a BA in psychology. After two weeks I decided that was not for me and registered for a BSc in natural and environmental sciences with biochemistry and psychology as my majors with the notion that one day after my studies I would become a neuropsychologist. When I had to decide between taking my honors in psychology or biochemistry, I chose biochemistry mainly because I thought I had better prospects of finding a job soon after completing the degree, which would free my parents from the financial burden of paying for tuition through to a PhD in psychology (you have to be a doctor first before earning any real money in psychology, I had been told). Boy was I wrong! The carefree, self‐assured graduate with the world at her feet slowly changed into a grasping‐at‐straws, ‘I will do anything to pay the bills’ nobody until nearly 2 years after graduation the advertisement for a junior R&D chemist magically appeared in my email! That opened up the floodgates for my childhood dreams of making people feel better by making them look better through makeup and fashion, my adult inclination towards psychology with a scientific twist. I felt this was the opportunity I had been waiting for but had not known it! Thus, my adventure began… This essay won the 2007 Maison G. de Navarre Young Scientist Prize that is awarded for either the first or second paper in cosmetic science or a specially written essay on a topic selected by the 2006–2007 IFSCC President for an author of 35 years or younger. This Prize was awarded to Muchaneta G. Mutasa during the Openings Ceremony of the 2007 IFSCC Conference »Building on Water«, Amsterdam, The Netherlands on 24 September 2007. The purpose of the Maison G. de Navarre Young Scientist Prize is to stimulate young cosmetic scientists to write scientific papers/essays. The prize covers all expenses to attend the first IFSCC Congress or Conference that is held after the prize was awarded.

J. Cosmet. Sci., 158, 651–662 (November/December 2007) Water‐handling properties of vernix caseosa and a synthetic analogue

Accepted for publication May 14, 2007SynopsisA naturally occurring barrier cream, vernix caseosa, is the viscous material synthesized by the sebaceous glands in the late gestational human fetus. Vernix functions as a moisturizer by increasing the skin hydration and water‐holding capacity of treated skin. Vernix films are semi‐permeable, i.e., in the range that facilitates barrier repair. Antioxidant, disinfectant, and skin cleansing functions are also present. Premature infants have a markedly immature epidermal barrier and the excessive water loss can lead to fluid and electrolyte imbalances, along with high evaporative heat loss. Application of petrolatum‐based, low‐water creams on these infants has decreased TEWL and improved the skin condition. However, in infants of 500–750 g, this treatment was associated with an increased incidence of late‐onset nosocomial infection, and questions regarding efficacy and safety have been raised. The water‐handling properties, semi‐permeability and multi‐functionality, suggest that application of vernix may promote the development and restoration of premature or other compromised skin. The present study focuses on the development of barrier creams to simulate the water‐handling properties of native vernix. Barrier creams were prepared as high‐water‐phase emulsions containing various lipid mixtures. Several stable creams with high water content exhibited slow water release and water vapor transport rates in the range to facilitate barrier repair. The results showed the importance of emulsion type in preventing water release. Preparations with vernix‐like lipids demonstrated water release profiles closer to the native vernix benchmark than those with conventional lipids. The work resulted in a synthetic vernix barrier cream prototype for evaluation on skin and to which additional functionality, e.g., anti‐infective and antioxidant activity, could be added. J. Cosmet. Sci., 58, 663–666 (November/December 2007)AbstractsInternational Journal of Cosmetic Science, Vol. 29, No. 4, 2007* J. Cosmet. Sci., 58, 667–668 (November/December 2007)AbstractsJournal of the Polish Society of Cosmetic Science, “Wiadomości PTK” Vol. 10, No 2, 2007* J. Cosmet. Sci., 58, 669–678 (November/December 2007)Author Index To Volume 58 J. Cosmet. Sci., 58, 679–685 (November/December 2007)Subject Index To Volume 58

Revolutionary trends in the advancement and integration of cosmetic science: combinatorial formulation

The creation of modern cosmetic products is underpinned by an enormous and diversified array of sophisticated science, regulatory requirements and commercial knowledge. The marketplace is demanding an increasing rate of innovation that is being accelerated by crowded intellectual property portfolios and constraining regulations. Formulators of complex mixtures have long known that the characteristics of their final formulation and the position of ‘equilibrium’ often depends critically upon the order of addition of ingredients and the precise processing conditions under which the formulation was made. The large variety of possible outcomes derive from many eigenstates that are available to each composition of a complex mixture because of the fact that the bonds between the component molecules are weak physical bonds and therefore a potential multitude of nanostructures can be formed. Conventional formulation is severely limited by the number of compositions that can be investigated in a reasonable time.

Der Studiengang Kosmetikwissenschaft an der Universität Hamburg: Lehre und Forschung zu aktuellen dermatokosmetischen Konzepten

Der Studiengang Kosmetikwissenschaft der Universität Hamburg, seit 2000 unter dermatologischer Leitung, ist ein interdisziplinär ausgerichteter und wurde im Rahmen der universitären Umstrukturierung zum Wintersemester 2007/2008 auf das international anerkannte BA/MA-System umgestellt.Sowohl im Bereich der Lehre als auch in der Forschung wird im Studiengang Kosmetikwissenschaft in Hamburg den unterschiedlichsten Fragestellungen nachgegangen, wie Publikationen und wissenschaftliche Forschungsprojekte, teils unter studentischer Mitwirkung, belegen. Evidenzbasierte Dermatokosmetik-Forschung, chemische und biochemische Zusammenhänge sowie künstlerische und soziokulturelle Aspekte stehen im Fokus von Lehre und Forschung. Zudem werden im Rahmen einer dermatokosmetisch ausgerichteten Sprechstunde Patienten mit dermatologisch-ästhetischen Fragestellungen behandelt. Diese Schwerpunkte spiegeln sich in der Struktur des Studiums, aber auch in den Arbeitsschwerpunkten und Forschungsprojekten der Arbeitsgruppe wider und verhelfen dem Studiengang Kosmetikwissenschaft in Hamburg zu einer besonderen Stellung in der Hochschullandschaft.

Inaugural SCS annual cosmetic science symposium

International Journal of Cosmetic ScienceVolume 29, Issue 6 p. 483-484 Inaugural SCS annual cosmetic science symposium First published: 16 November 2007 https://doi.org/10.1111/j.1468-2494.2007.00404.xRead the full textAboutPDF ToolsRequest permissionExport citationAdd to favoritesTrack citation ShareShare Give accessShare full text accessShare full-text accessPlease review our Terms and Conditions of Use and check box below to share full-text version of article.I have read and accept the Wiley Online Library Terms and Conditions of UseShareable LinkUse the link below to share a full-text version of this article with your friends and colleagues. Learn more.Copy URL Share a linkShare onFacebookTwitterLinked InRedditWechat No abstract is available for this article. Volume29, Issue6December 2007Pages 483-484 RelatedInformation

The International Journal of Cosmetic Science publication prize

International Journal of Cosmetic ScienceVolume 29, Issue 3 p. 239-240 The International Journal of Cosmetic Science publication prize First published: 23 May 2007 https://doi.org/10.1111/j.1467-2494.2007.00383.xRead the full textAboutPDF ToolsRequest permissionExport citationAdd to favoritesTrack citation ShareShare Give accessShare full text accessShare full-text accessPlease review our Terms and Conditions of Use and check box below to share full-text version of article.I have read and accept the Wiley Online Library Terms and Conditions of UseShareable LinkUse the link below to share a full-text version of this article with your friends and colleagues. Learn more.Copy URL Share a linkShare onFacebookTwitterLinkedInRedditWechat No abstract is available for this article. Volume29, Issue3June 2007Pages 239-240 RelatedInformation

Remote in vivo imaging of human skin corneocytes by means of an optical fiber bundle

Human corneocytes forming the outermost layer of the epidermis (stratum corneum) were imaged in vivo by epifluorescence through a coherent optical fiber bundle. A very simple and rapid method to remotely visualize the cells forming this protective layer of the skin is presented. After the topical application of fluorescein, the distal face of an optical fiber bundle is gently applied perpendicularly onto the labeled skin (contact mode). Remote fluorescence images of the corneocytes are acquired in 50 ms through the bundle comprising 30 000 individually cladded 3.5 microm diameter optical fibers. The very short focal distance which is an intrinsic characteristic of such bundles, allows visualizing only the most superficial monolayer of cells in contact with the external environment. An image displays about 400-500 cells directly on the human body. The size and the arrangement of the corneocytes can thus be acquired and analyzed in a very simple and easy way. The method is flexible and can be used for any location on the human body. Using a gradient-index lens objective (magnification 2.8x) fused to the distal face of the bundle allows the shape of the corneocytes to be better resolved. In addition, the working distance is 300 microm and hence this second approach works in a noncontact imaging mode. Both approaches are complementary and allow providing instantaneously either a global view of the cells with a possible statistical determination of their area or morphological information, which are essential for dermatology and cosmetic sciences. Finally, to improve the quality and the contrast of the recorded images, we tested silica nanoparticles containing fluorescein. In brief, this diagnostic method is nontoxic, painless, easy to use, noninvasive, and nondestructive.

How cosmetic science can contribute to the improvement of society

The only constant in life is change and living in South Africa I certainly have witnessed major change during my life, particularly as our country was transformed from being governed by the Apartheid regime to a democratically elected government. In order to share my ideas of how cosmetic science can contribute to the improvement of society, I would like to address three issues. The first part of my essay will discuss some of the recent changes in the society we live in and how these changes have affected our need for cosmetics. Secondly I will discuss the developments in cosmetic science that will be necessary to cope with these changes and finally, the kind of developments in cosmetic science will be necessary in order for them to improve our society. Of course, not all people in our world share the same norms and values and I will therefore consider a global acceptance of and adherence to the declaration of human rights as the ultimate improvement. On such a level, it should be realized from the beginning that the influence cosmetic science can have on society is very limited compared to that of, for instance, political leaders of our world. Cosmetic science, however, does make a contribution, although it is only a small step in the process of improving the world we live in, but according to Confucius the longest journey begins with the first step. Therefore, let the journey begin… This essay won the 2006 Maison G. de Navarre Young Scientist Prize that is awarded for either the first or second paper in cosmetic science or a specially written essay on a topic selected by the 2005–2006 IFSCC President for an author of 35 years or younger. This Prize was awarded to Megan Jones during the Openings Ceremony of the 24th IFSCC Congress »Integration of Cosmetic Sciences«, Osaka, Japan on 16 October 2006. The purpose of the Maison G. de Navarre Young Scientist Prize is to stimulate young cosmetic scientists to write scientific papers/essays. The prize covers all expenses to attend the first IFSCC Congress or Conference that is held after the prize was awarded.

JCD indexing achieved!

I am extremely pleased to report that the Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology has achieved PubMed indexing status! This means that all articles published in the journal since its inception and all published articles going forward will be searchable via the PubMed search engine, one of the most robust scientific medical search engines. This is a tremendous success for all of those associated with the journal, including our readers, reviewers, assistant editors, and Blackwell staff. Until I took this position as journal editor, I did not realize the tremendous number of people involved in putting together a quality journal. The process begins with our readers submitting the best cosmetic dermatology research from around the world. The journal could not have been indexed without these contributions. And, we still need your best insights and research in the realm of cosmetic dermatology! I am always looking for that special submission that will change the way dermatologists think or advance the specialty to the next level or present an observation no one previously documented. The journal strives to combine the best that clinical dermatology and skin care research can produce. Please continue to help me find those special manuscripts. I am always available for your ideas at zdraelos@northstate.net. The indexing process also requires the talents of those who guide the journal: our reviewers and our assistant editors. The review process is really aimed at making every manuscript the best that it can possibly be prior to publication. It is not picking apart insignificant details in a mean-spirited manner. Please keep this in mind. The reviewers for the journal are selected for their special expertise by the assistant editors. What a tremendous opportunity to have someone of this caliber comment on your work without remuneration! The assistant editors for the journal have been fabulous in their untiring devotion to improve the quality of the submissions and pick those manuscripts that allowed successful indexing. I am very grateful for their time and assistance. Finally, I must comment on those who work with Blackwell. I think each of the journal issues is a printed masterpiece. Everything from the quality of the paper to the meticulous typesetting to the excellent color reproduction to fine copyediting is a tribute to the excellence of Blackwell. Anna Salt, our editor at Blackwell, did an amazing job of putting together our PubMed application with the support of Jeffrey Bernhardt, MD, editor of the Journal of the American Academy of Dermatology, and William Coleman, MD, editor of Dermatologic Surgery. A special word of thanks goes to Cindy Brown, our production manager, and Christine Lynch, our managing editor. Every quarter they help me with the mechanics of getting the journal to press and I am forever grateful for their expertise. Our PubMed recognition means that the Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology is the first and only journal indexed in the area of cosmetics. There are no other cosmetic dermatology journals or cosmetics industry journals that are referenced on PubMed. Not only does this indexing help our journal, but also the area of skin care and appearance as a whole. Now there will be a corpus of knowledge to lend credibility to cosmetic science and begin to establish this area as a new frontier. The journal can now begin to establish a body of knowledge for further expansion and research. The foundation is being laid for the future and the researchers yet to come. The journal has an increased page count for 2007 and we are committed to publishing more of the best that international cosmetic dermatology research has to offer. Many thanks to all of you who contributed to the successful indexing process!

Abstracts of papers published in the Journal of Cosmetic Science, Volume 57, January/February 2006

International Journal of Cosmetic ScienceVolume 28, Issue 5 p. 383-384 Abstracts of papers published in the Journal of Cosmetic Science, Volume 57, January/February 2006 First published: 19 September 2006 https://doi.org/10.1111/j.1467-2494.2006.00337.xRead the full textAboutPDF ToolsRequest permissionExport citationAdd to favoritesTrack citation ShareShare Give accessShare full text accessShare full-text accessPlease review our Terms and Conditions of Use and check box below to share full-text version of article.I have read and accept the Wiley Online Library Terms and Conditions of UseShareable LinkUse the link below to share a full-text version of this article with your friends and colleagues. Learn more.Copy URL Share a linkShare onFacebookTwitterLinked InRedditWechat No abstract is available for this article. Volume28, Issue5October 2006Pages 383-384 RelatedInformation