Coarse Fabrics Research Articles

<i>Seven shaburs, but one garment:</i> peasant outerwear <i>shabur(a)</i>

The study considers a dialect lexeme shabur(a), which refers to peasant outerwear made of coarse homespun material. In the dictionaries of the literary language, it is defined as a “light caftan”, but dialect materials indicate the incompleteness of such interpretation. The study argues that the lexeme shabur(a) has a broad system of meanings, including ‘demi-season clothing’, ‘men’s/women’s outerwear’, ‘worn, torn outerwear’ or ‘worn casual outerwear used for work’. However, we often use the word shabur(a) to describe a garment of a specific cut made of a certain material. For instance, mainly in the Urals this word was used to denote clothes made of coarse canvas fabric, in Siberia — from coarse fabric in which canvas (linen) warp threads were intertwined with wool weft. In different traditions, the style of the product is extremely variable. Such elements may differ: silhouette (straight / flared, loose / fitted, with or without assemblies around the waist / from the back), length (long / knee-length / short), ways of buttoning (buttoned / non-buttoned, single-breasted / double-breasted), collar (absent / stand / turn-down, narrow / wide), lining (absent / up to the waist). Combined in different variations, these features provided a) the mosaicism of local variants shabur(a) while preserving the common name, b) the specifics of the semantics development. The study indicates New meanings of the word shabur(a) and its numerous derivatives, word usage in proverbs and riddles, actualizing the semes ‘outer’, ‘rough, hard’, ‘badly protecting from the cold’, ‘very indigent’. The article concludes that due to the broad ethno-socio-cultural context of the realia and their names, the lexeme shabur(a) has a significant variability of the denotative basis, which makes it difficult to determine the scope of its conceptual content and semantic structure.

Coarse ware jugs in funerary context: technical and functional observations on the pottery from the cemeteries at Alburnus Maior

This study analyses a specific category of Roman ceramic vessels identified in the funerary inventories from Alburnus Maior: 26 coarse ware jugs present in the graves from the cemeteries at Tăul Corna, Tăul Găuri – Hop, Tăul Secuilor/Pârâul Porcului and in the area of the circular funerary monument. They all share specific morphological and technological characteristics, and at least a part of them are imitations in ceramic of bronze vessels. From a functional point of view they can be framed in the category of cooking ware and were produced from coarse fabrics. The vessels were produced locally, during the 4th – 6th/7th? decades of the 2nd century AD and all of them were used for boiling water. Their presence in the graves might be regarded as an identity marker of a group who used them in everyday life and, as part of the funerary ritual, could show a predilection for consuming hot drinks during the funerary banquet.

Development of Apparel Using Blocks of Phulkari Pattern

India is truly a land of wonders blessed with a myriad of cultures, customs and religions. These cultures have given us some of the best art and craft forms. One such craft is the Indian embroidery, every region in India has its own style of embroidery. A diverse yet distinct testimony of our rich cultural heritage is Phulkari of Punjab. Phulkari is considered as an important part of the trousseau in Punjab. Traditionally Phulkari embroidery were done by hand on a special type of coarser fabric known as ‘khaddar’ with untwisted silk floss called ‘Pat’, but due to some of the reasons like, time consumption & tedious process of manufacturing, usage of coarse fabric, lack of skilled labour, etc., it is not spreading & growing at a broader range. Hence in the present study an attempt was made to develop blocks of phulkari motif for printing of apparels like saree, dupatta, blouse & skirt. The motifs were collected from various sources like internet, books, etc. Selected motifs were developed into blocks by professional artists. The developed Phulkari motifs used for placement on the apparels by using Corel draw software for visual evaluation. All the developed placement of designs were coded & judged by a panel of 30 members. Four most preferred designs from each apparel are selected for final product development. Developed products were evaluated by same panel of members and ranked the product according to obtaining scores. All the developed products were highly accepted & appreciated in the evaluation.

Дрок испанский (Spartium junceum L.) в традиционной культуре контактных зон Адриатического и Ионического побережья Балкан

The paper deals with the special status of broom in the Balkans and its practice in different contact areas of the peninsula. It is a symbolic plant on the Adriatic coast of Croatia (Zadar), with a sacred status for the local Albanians (Arbënesh). It plays an extremely great role as a ritual plant during the celebration of Holy Virgin from Loreto. That’s what separates Arbnesh from their neighbor Croatians, who take it only for pragmatic use — weaving and manufacturing rough textile. On the Ionic coast (in Labёria, Albania) broom is used for weaving and spinning of coarse fabric. But ideal local conditions helped the Albanians to produce specific thin broom fabric. And finally, in the Albanian-Greek contact zone of Himara which is situated in the best enabling climate environment, there is lack of serious attention to broom — its role is quite insignificant. The authors analyze the mechanisms of the introduction of the plant, which is important for the traditions, into the cultural codes of the Balkan peoples, consider all local Balkan phytonyms, which makes it possible to interpret anthropological facts through linguistic material. The research is based on long-term field observations conducted in 2008—2019, as well as on the analysis of ethnological, folklore and historical materials. The historical approach makes it possible to reveal the fundamental laws of the genesis of cultural memory and the evolution of ethnic identity.

Traditional Fine Homespun Hemp Linen Fabrics: About Qualities and Usages in Ritual and Secular Contexts

Traditional European and East Asian cultures have for centuries grown hemp (Cannabis) to make homespun yarn and weave linens (plain weave fabrics) used both in ritual and secular contexts. Even so, few academic sources have discussed fine hemp linen fabrics and how they look. In publications concerning textile plants and the fabrics made from them, when hemp is mentioned, it is usually relegated to the weaving of coarse fabrics used by the poor lower classes. Unrecognized is that by employing only manual methods hemp fabrics can reach fine qualities, and that they were used by people of many social strata. Also frequently overlooked is that coarse fabrics were made from a range of other fiber plants including flax and ramie. In addition, that “coarse” and “fine” are relative terms subject to various interpretations makes textile comparisons difficult. This paper explores a collection of representative textiles from Europe and Asia made of homegrown and homespun hemp, with a focus on the various fabrics. Also discusses the importance of their cultural contexts as reasons for their preservation. Initial examination was performed by manual fiber identification protocols and a digital microscope was used to measure and record yarn diameter and fabric density.

‘Polish-Lithuanian’ archaeological materials from the excavations of the town of Tara

In this article, the authors analyse materials from the excavations of the Tara fortress (Omsk Region, Wes-tern Siberia), founded in 1594 by Prince Andrei Yeletsky and functioned as the main outpost of the Russians in the Middle Irtysh region to counter Khan Kuchum, the Kuchumovichs, and then the newly-arrived population from Dzungaria and Kazakhstan, until construction of the Omsk fortress in 1716. The aim of this research is to identify amongst the finds the articles of Polish-Lithuanian origin, in outward appearance similar to Russian ones. Having studied the collections formed during the excavations of the fortress in 2007–2020, the authors came to the con-clusion that such items are definitely represented by the signet rings with nobility coats of arms, coins, and bap-tismal crosses made according to the Catholic canon. Potentially, Polish-Lithuanian origin could be assigned to some types of fabrics and leather goods, such as a travel compass case with images of French fleur-de-lis, some types of shoes, and handgun holsters. The presence of Venetian glass ware and plinth bricks in the layers of the 17th c., according to the authors, is also associated with the arrival in Tara of the population that had previously resided in the territory of the Polish-Lithuanian Commonwealth or on the western borders of Muscovy. The owners of these items ended up in Tara (and in Western Siberia) because they were taken prisoners or sided with the Rus-sians during the Russian-Polish wars. Over time, they formed a special category of service people called ‘Lithuania’. This is evidenced by numerous written sources. The basis for this conclusion is given by particular characteristics of Tara's trade relations established, primarily, with China, Lesser and Greater Bukharia, and the Uzbek Khanate, i.e., with the south in the 17th c., from where Chinese porcelain, silk and cotton fabrics, and some types of smo-king pipes came to Tara. At that time, weapons, bread, coarse fabrics, money for salaries of the servicemen of the Siberian garrisons, and cheap beads were imported to Tara from the west through Kazan, Kungur, and Lozva. In the 18th c., the main trade of the Russians began to concentrate in Troitskosavsk (Kyakhta since 1934) on the border with Mongolia, from where tea, silk, and porcelain were exported, whereas a flow of Russian-made goods, as well as European wines, sugar, some species of nuts, and spices, was established through Kazan into Siberia. Instead of ’Lithuania’, Germans started coming to Siberia. In the 19th c., Poles reappeared en masse in Western Siberia. However, those were no longer residents of Lithuania and Western Russian principalities, but ethnic Poles exiled to Siberia for participation in anti-Russian uprisings.

An integrated approach to the characterization and dating of furnaces in smelting sites in Macedonia, Greece

Metal production sites are characterized by slag heaps which are often difficult to date due to a general lack of diagnostic pottery. This problem has been countered in recent years by the use of absolute dating techniques. Furnace fragments of severely fired clay, which are usually present in such production sites, represent an ideal material for the dating of metallurgical activity. Yet the studies focusing on the dating of furnace debris are very limited, hence there is a need to better evaluate and date such material. In order to gain absolute dates, thermoluminescence (TL) dating of ceramic refractories from sites in northern Greece has been applied. More precisely the sampled archaeological material consists of ceramic tuyères from two areas, namely Angistro and Katafyto, which were used to direct air into the furnaces and were deposited in the slag heaps shortly after the smelting of iron. In addition, fragments of clay linings used for coating the interior surface of the furnace were also studied. A measurement of their TL dose provides the dating of the actual smelting process and contributes towards establishing a chronology for iron production in northern Greece, which is currently lacking. The samples were found to date within the 16th–18th centuries, a period marked by an increase in pre-industrial Ottoman metallurgy. The tuyères were also analyzed by micro-XRF and examined under stereoscope in order to determine their chemical composition and study their morphology. Results show that coarse fabrics of local clay, tempered with various rock inclusions were used in order to produce fire-resistant refractories to withstand cracking at high temperatures.

An Integrated Methodological Approach for Source-Clay Determination of Ancient Ceramics: The Case of Aegina Island, Greece

AbstractA new model is proposed for analysis of the source clays used to create ceramics, based on geographic, petrographic, mineralogical, mineral-chemistry, and geochemical criteria. The development of this model became feasible after the discovery of a Pliocene volcanic clay horizon on NWAegina Island, Greece. The volcanic clay contains smectite, mixed-layer chlorite-smectite, biotite, and palygorskite and has greater feldspar content than the underlying Pliocene marls, which contain R0 mixed-layer illitesmectite, mica, dolomite, serpentine, talc and gypsum, and, in some places, palygorskite. The two units have distinct geochemical characteristics. In general the Pliocene volcanic clay is richer in SiO2, Al3O3, and Fe2O3 and poorer in Na2O, MgO, and P2O2 than the Pliocene marls. The Nb, Zr, Hf, Th, and rare earth element (REE) contents are also significantly greater in the Pliocene volcanic clay and comparable to those of the dacitic rocks of the island, reflecting the volcanic origin of the clay.The proposed model was used to identify the source-clay materials that were used for the production of ceramics on the island of Aegina (Aeginetan Ware). All five criteria should be considered in any provenance study. The use of individual criteria on their own can lead to ambiguous conclusions. In the present study the geochemical criterion was particularly helpful. It provided robust evidence for the nature of the source clay. The Pliocene volcanic clay horizon and the underlying Pliocene marls are the candidate raw materials for Aeginetan Ware. Although the Pliocene marls have been invoked as raw materials for Greek Bronze Age (~3000–1100 BC) Aeginetan ceramics and are used as raw materials by modern Aeginetan ceramists, the geochemical characteristics of a large set of Bronze Age Greek Aeginetan sherds with fine and coarse fabrics coincide with those of the Pliocene volcanic clay. This comparative and cumulative evidence suggests that the Pliocene volcanic clay was the main source clay for ancient Aeginetan ceramics, regardless of the fabric (coarse or fine) and that admixture of different sources might not be necessary for fine-grained ceramics.

Assessing the Potential of Internal Erosion and Suffusion of Granular Soils

This study presents a new empirical criterion for assessing the potential of internal erosion and suffusion of granular soils. This method considers the bimodal structure of a soil having a primary coarse fabric and loose finer particles based on the porosities influenced by the particle size distribution and the degree of compaction. By comparing the representative particle size of a loose finer fraction with the controlling constriction size of a primary coarse fabric, a distinct boundary between internally stable and unstable soils with respect to internal erosion may be found.

Ecostratigraphic trends of Jurassic agglutinated foraminiferal assemblages as a response to sea-level changes in shelf deposits of Svalbard (Norway)

Foraminiferal analysis proves to be a useful tool for the interpretation of major factors controlling the eco-sedimentary environment. Changes in benthic foraminiferal features, including morphogroups, are mainly affected by variations in nutrient availability and oxygenation rate. The integration of foraminiferal data with total organic carbon (TOC) values, together with differentiation of oxygen restricted biofacies (ORB) based on sedimentological features and macroinvertebrate composition, will improve the interpretations derived. Upper Jurassic shelf deposits from Svalbard (Norway) are revealed to be particularly sensitive to the record of fluctuations in nutrients and oxygenation, showing two extreme cases in TOC content. High TOC concentrations are characterized by low values of the Shannon–Weaver Index ( H′) and α-diversity index in foraminifera, pointing to a low diversity and dominance of r-mode epifaunal foraminifera ( Trochammina). Moreover, differentiated ORB can be characterized by parallel lamination in shales, and an absence of macrobenthic invertebrates (including trace fossils). Unfavourable benthic conditions are interpreted, mainly related with a high consumption of oxygen by microbes in the sediment associated to the degradation of the organic matter. Low TOC values are related to higher values of diversity ( H′ and α-diversity index), and foraminiferal assemblages dominated by infaunal forms. The differentiated ORBs are characterized by coarse fabrics, scarcity or absence of parallel lamination, presence of trace fossils and abundance of macroinvertebrate shelly epifauna. This is related to a better pore water circulation and higher oxygenation degree, congruent with the comparatively more favourable conditions in the infaunal habitats. Ecostratigraphic trends along the studied section allow the differentiation of stratigraphic intervals reflecting variations in parameters related to the sea-level dynamics. Transgressive phases reveal upward trends in palaeoenvironmental parameters, characterized by: decreasing grain-size, and increasing in both TOC values and epifaunal foraminifera. Differentiated ORB reveals diminution in abundance and diversity of trace fossils and benthic shelly macroinvertebrates upwards. Maximum flooding intervals show the maintenance or accentuation of the previously registered features (the thinnest fabrics, and the highest values in TOC and in opportunistic epifaunal foraminifera), with ORB dominated by parallel lamination. A regressive phase is characterized by coarsening-upwards sediments, decreasing TOC values and increasing infaunal foraminifera. ORB reveals a diminution in parallel lamination together with an increase in trace fossil abundance and diversity, as well as in benthic shelly macroinvertebrates.

Utilization of new substrate materials for FPP fabric for Petryanov filters

The results-of an investigation of the possibility of using spanbond material and technical coarse fabric as substrates for preparing FPP-15-1.5 fabric for Petryanov filters are presented. It is shown that the technical coarse fabric possesses the most acceptable properties. The results of this work have been adopted in the pilot production of Petryanov filters at the Industrial Association “Mayak”. 6 tables, 8 references.

編地分析および設計支援システムの開発 （第１報） 画像分析による平編ニットの密度計測

A measurement system was developed to measure the density of knit fabrics automatically without destruc tion, and the applicability was discussed. The density of knit fabrics is concerned greatly with the appearance of the finish, so the measurement is very important for the design and reproduction. Computer image processing and information analysis were implemented in the system to measure the density. The surface images of knit fabrics were scanned by an image scanner and saved to disk on a computer. The threshold processing and histogram processing were performed to determine the positions of courses and wales. Then, the system counted the number of stitches in a course. The density, the number of courses and wales per the unit length, were measured for some plane stitch knit fabrics. The density measurement was successful for relatively coarse fabrics such as five gauges and was good for gauge of less than or equal to 12, but was sometimes incorrect for fine fabrics such as 20 gauge. This is caused by the resolution of the image scanner. If the resolution of the image increase, the measurements become successful. This system can be used instead of the current manual measurement using a textile analysis glass.

Spinnability of Camelhair. (Part 1). Fine Structure of Camelhairs and Their Mechanical Properties.

Camel hairs might be hoped as very excellent fibers for garments as like cashmeres considering their fineness, softness, warmth, and lightness. But they have been used only as thick and coarse fabrics for overcoats or blankets because they hardly be spun into the thin and smooth threads.Usually, animal hair fibers can be spun into the threads by virtue of their crimps and D. F. E of cuticles. And these two factors must be well balanced, for instance, the larger crimp force of fibers must be accompanied with the lager D. F. E. It was found that the crimp force of camel hairs was as large as wool, much larger than cashmere, notwithstanding the D. F. E was smaller than others. Therefore, it may be happened that the each camel hair curls up when the hair was drawn a comb through on the carding machine or the combing machine. Chemical analysis showed that the S-content or cystin content of the camel hairs is lower than those of the others. And the electron-micrographs showed that the bilateral structures, which are the sources of the crimp force, of the camel hairs are not so clear as those of the others.From these data and the scanning electron micrographs observation, we supposed the presence of gelatinous adhesives on the surfaces of camel hairs covering the cuticle-edges and enlarging the crimp forces.

Pruritus. What to do when the itching won't stop.

Pruritus is a common problem that can result from many conditions. Some, such as fungal or parasitic infection, may be fairly obvious. However, others, such as iron deficiency and psychogenic disorder, are more difficult to diagnose. Evaluation must include a thorough inspection of the skin, history taking for drug intake and chemical exposure, and appropriate laboratory testing. The location on the body and characteristics of the itching may point to a cause. In some cases, attention to exacerbating factors (eg, dry skin, coarse fabrics against the skin, dry environmental conditions) and application of topical preparations may be sufficient. Antihistamines are the foundation of oral treatment, and with the advent of second-generation agents, they can be taken with fewer concerns about their sedative effects. Specific conditions of which pruritus is one feature may require specific treatment. For example, in patients undergoing dialysis, activated charcoal, UV light treatment, or heparin therapy may be useful.

The petrological characterisation of late Bronze Age ceramics from Knossos and Mycenae

This paper discusses the ceramic petrology of fine and coarse wares from Knossos and Mycenae. Many of the fine wares from Knossos contain foraminifera and are of sedimentary origin, while the majority of the coarse wares are of sedimentary origin. This suggests a differing emphasis of pottery production within the Knossos region. The clay sources for several of the Mycenae coarse fabrics are up to 30 km distant from Mycenae, and at least two fabrics were imported to the Argolid. Evidence is now accumulating that coarse wares circulated on a wider regional and inter-regional scale than hitherto suspected.