This paper examines the “Wirthmor” method, a management system put forward by the Cleveland-based apparel manufacturer, L. N. Gross Company, in 1913. Founded by Louis Newton Gross in 1898, the company became one of the largest shirtwaist manufacturers in the U.S. In his autobiography, Gross attributed the company's success to his development of the Wirthmor method, claiming that this system allowed the company to reduce 21% of its overall expenditures, while simultaneously offering consumers a garment that's “worth-more.” Despite standardizing the production of women's shirtwaists, the company's success largely relied on hundreds of female garment workers who ultimately lost their jobs once the shirtwaist fell out of fashion, revealing the true cost of a garment thought to be worth more. Overall, this paper shows how early systems of apparel manufacturing, like the Wirthmor method, laid the foundation for structural inequities that continue to shape the fashion industry today.

Objective Biotechnology using enzymes has been explored in textile wet processing for the potential of reducing energy and water consumption, due to the use of the highly specific biocatalysts that can operate under mild temperature and neutral pH conditions. The current research study contributes to an understanding of the use of the enzyme peroxidase for textile coloration of wool fabrics as an alternative coloration method to using conventional dyestuffs. Peroxidases, belonging to the enzyme group of oxidoreductases, can catalyze oxidation of a wide range of colorless simple aromatic compounds as precursors to form polymeric colorants. This enzymatic coloration can be successfully applied to in-situ dyeing of wool fabrics at a low temperature through peroxidase catalysis of various precursors over a broad range of pH values to achieve a diverse color palette. To explore the potential of enzymatic coloration for fabric design, a woven wool base fabric was embroidered using computer-controlled embroidery machines with embroidery yarns of different fiber types and subsequently enzymatically dyed to create color patterns. Peroxidase-catalyzed coloration has the potential not only as an alternative coloration process to create design patterns of fabrics, but also for saving energy and preventing fiber damage during the dyeing process.

In the early 1970s, the North Carolina textile industry (i.e., textile mills/textile mill products/apparel) was thriving and vibrant, one of the state's top manufacturing industries. Following peak employment and establishments in the early 1990s, plants began to close, and employment layoffs became common. A second wave of layoffs occurred in the early 2000s. In contrast, new textile and apparel companies opened in the subsequent decade and into the 2020s. This in-depth historical study examines primary and secondary sources, including government and company documents, archival newspapers and historic maps. The findings held evidence that the early publicly-traded mega-corporations were susceptible to competition from low-wage countries and hostile takeovers. A few long-term companies are survivors and have invested in their plants with capital improvements for high-tech processes. New textile and apparel companies continue to be located in North Carolina because of the state's skilled workforce and proximity to applicable suppliers.

While 3D apparel CAD shows promise for advancing dynamic clothing displays, limited empirical evidence exists on whether digital twins accurately reflect consumer perceptions, particularly visual-tactile sensations. This study examines the relationship between virtual fabric parameters and consumer perceptions, focusing on descriptors including flexibility, supportiveness, and comfort. A Maxdiff Conjoint survey with 96 participants was used to evaluate eight CLO virtual fabric variants, manipulated in three fabric parameters: stretch and shear, bending, and density. Findings suggest that perceived flexibility significantly influences comfort assessment, with smooth, flexible fabrics rated as more comfortable but less supportive. Further analysis reveals that optimal comfort is associated with a combination of low bending, stretch, and shear properties coupled with high density. This research provides valuable insights for 3D apparel designers, emphasizing the importance of accurate fabric mechanical property simulation to enhance virtual clothing realism.

Fashion trend prediction is based on intuition, judgment, and creativity and requires a sensual and intuitive approach, but can also be based on a highly scientific analysis method that uses a systematic method. This study aims to develop prompts that can verify and improve the accuracy of fashion trend prediction technology by analysing generative data from open AI models that are currently widely used. To this end, we propose ChatGPT as a means of fashion trend prediction and a method to derive efficient and objective data through human-AI interaction. We identified the characteristics of ChatGPT in the field of fashion trend prediction, set prompt guidelines, and developed a top-down prompt (TDP) using Lotus Blossom. Additionally, we applied TDP to ChatGPT to predict men's fashion trends for fall/winter 2024 and validated it using data from real fashion trend companies.

Denim has been an influential element of widespread culture and fashion for centuries. Especially, Bangladesh is the world's second-largest exporter of clothing and apparel, in which denim exhibits a lot of promise. However, the local denim manufacturers in Bangladesh still face significant hurdles, one of which is the fit problem, the primary barrier limiting the growth of this industry. To assess the fit-related issues from the manufacturing side, a qualitative research method of one-on-one indepth interviews was used by applying the engineering design process model. Twenty-three participants discussed fit problems, reasons for the problems, and alternative solutions. The findings showed diverse fit issues in each division. Also, it was found that technological advancement would significantly assist in alleviating their fit issues. The outcomes of our study help in understanding fit-related problems from the perspectives of denim manufacturing professionals and the potential technological solutions for these problems.

As the market of voice-activated assistants (VAAs) is rapidly expanding, these voice-based interfaces, as easy and intuitive conversational agents, are penetrating people's everyday life. To add new insight into the current understanding of this phenomenon, this study aims to explore consumers’ experiences and perceptions with VAAs for apparel shopping along with the shopping journey. This qualitative study uses semistructured interviews with 21 US-based participants who have shopped using VAAs. The phronetic iterative method identified six main themes: perceived VAA suitability for apparel, loyalty-driven VAA shopping, VAA personal assistant experiences, ecosystem credibility experiences, control and autonomy in VAA shopping, and desire for multi-modal shopping. Further, perceived benefits and barriers relating to each theme are discussed. Our findings lay a foundation for the theorization of consumer behavior while providing implications on marketing and design of voice commerce for fashion businesses and VAA developers.

This study explores the efficacy of sensory clothing in providing compressive tactile stimulation to different upper body locations. Building upon Grandin's findings on the effectiveness of compressive tactile stimulation, we aim to evaluate the user experience on wearable compressive stimulation on various upper body locations through development of compression vest equipped with inflatable sections to ascertain which location best approximates the comforting compression. Through a randomized, dynamic evaluation involving ten female participants, employing a combination of the think-aloud protocol and post-use surveys, we analyzed the user experience of the vest prototypes providing compressive tactile stimulation on different upper body locations. Finally, virtual prototypes of the compression vests were created using the CLO 7.1 program, with particular attention given to stress distribution, strain patterns, and pressure points, underscoring the feasibility and potential of incorporating tactile stimulation into wearable technology for emotional well-being.

This study investigated the levels of avatar realism required for users to perceive a virtual body as their own and identified optimal avatar design conditions for positive user experiences without psychological discomfort. Fifteen female participants engaged in an experiment involving 30 distinct avatar conditions, combining two facial feature variations, five levels of body representation, and three outfit types, while using a VR headset. Participants evaluated their engagement with avatars by considering facial features, senses of body ownership and body presence, and the reliability of virtual fitting. The study also explored how avatar realism influences likability and overall user experiences. Findings revealed that modest simplification of avatar body representations could elicit positive user responses and suggested key technical specifications driving these effects. The insights gained from this study provide a foundation for optimizing virtual avatar design and fitting systems, enabling more immersive and user-centered experiences in digital fashion platforms.

The fashion industry is increasingly leveraging virtual reality (VR) technology to develop and promote its products while enhancing consumer experience. However, existing research on the exploration of VR within the field remains limited. This study aims to provide a comprehensive analysis of the application of VR in the fashion literature. We employed a systematic review methodology, incorporating an annotated bibliography into the screening and review process, which included 71 articles. Our findings revealed that VR in fashion research is primarily concentrated in a few countries, with a significant increase in output since 2020. Additionally, non-immersive VR and quantitative approaches have been widely utilized. Several theoretical frameworks, particularly in technology adoption, have also been applied. Our findings contribute to the literature by offering valuable insights into the current state and future directions of VR in fashion. Future research should focus on bridging the gap between potential and actual applications of VR.