Within the Limits of the Visible: The Offscreen in Post- Dictatorial Chilean Cinema

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This article examines the limited representation of violence in Chilean productions from the early 21st century, as a reflection of the democracy of agreements promoted by the “Concertación” governments (1990-2010). The analysis focuses on how violence is often displaced off-screen in the works of three directors from different generations: Andrés Wood, Miguel Littin, and Pablo Larraín. From the films of these directors, two trends in representation are identified: one reproduces a consensual perspective on historical events, while the other aims to challenge the democracy of agreements by introducing new subjectivities into Chilean historical cinema.

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  • Research Article
  • 10.32461/2226-2180.39.2021.238712
Ukrainian vocal music of the 20th – early 21st century in the pedagogical repertoire of the soloist-vocalist
  • Sep 1, 2021
  • Collection of scientific works “Notes on Art Criticism”
  • Femiy Mustafayev

The purpose of the article. The paper describes the contemporary vocal pedagogical repertoire from the standpoint of its representativeness in relation to musical trends of the 20th – early 21st century. The methodology is based on a combination of historical, cultural, systemic, analytical, predictive methods, which made it possible to demonstrate the limited educational repertoire of vocalists, respectively, with didactic tasks and potential openness to expand its genre and style palette in connection with the need to train a universal academic singer. The scientific novelty of the paper lies in the fact that in Ukrainian science for the first time the problematic issues of the content of the pedagogical repertoire of academic vocalists in the context of the genre and style diversity of vocal music of the 20th – early 21st centuries were revealed. Conclusions. The contemporary pedagogical repertoire used in the preparation of academic vocalists does not reflect the stylistic and genre diversity of the musical art of the 20th – early 21st centuries, in particular, it does not contain avant-garde compositions, which have long been a constant of contemporary musical culture. Practical acquaintance with avant-garde classics is possible as part of an elective for those vocalists who plan to specialize in this direction of academic music, however, the pedagogical repertoire of training an academic vocalist does not provide for the performance of works of an avant-garde character and the acquisition of appropriate skills. The reasons for the inexpediency of including avant-garde music of the 20th – early 21st century in the main educational repertoire is the absence of a temporal distance, not always a high artistic level of contemporary works, the impossibility of including contemporary vocal music of an avant-garde character in the anthology due to the peculiarities of its notation and forms of existence, as well as the priority for the educational process of the classical vocal repertoire as such that forms the vocalist’s executive apparatus. At the same time, Ukrainian variety classics of the 20th century is an integral part of the educational repertoire of a contemporary academic vocalist, as it serves as a bridge between elite and popular musical culture.

  • Research Article
  • 10.32342/2522-4115-2022-1-23-1
ІСТОРІОГРАФІЯ ДОСЛІДЖЕННЯ ПАТРІОТИЧНОГО ВИХОВАННЯ В ШКОЛАХ УКРАЇНИ ДРУГОЇ ПОЛОВИНИ ХХ – ПОЧАТКУ ХХІ СТОЛІТЬ
  • Jun 1, 2022
  • Bulletin of Alfred Nobel University Series "Pedagogy and Psychology»
  • Vitalii Y Kulchytskyi

The article analyzes scientific works devoted to the traditions of patriotic education in Ukrainian schools of the second half of the 20th – early 21st centuries. The leading tendencies of this process are determined on the basis of studying the publications in the press of that time, manuals and monographs of scientists-teachers. The conducted logical-historical analysis of the scientific problem gave grounds to state that patriotic education in Ukrainian schools in the second half of the 20th – early 21st centuries has not been the subject of a separate comprehensive research. Despite the interest of scientists in some issues of retrospective experience of patriotic education in the schools of Ukraine in the second half of the 20th – early 21st centuries, in scientific research on this issue within these chronological limits either highlighted some aspects of organizational nature or conducted extensive research on the theory and practice of educational work. The analyzed scientific works on the traditions of patriotic education in Ukraine give grounds to conclude that there is no comprehensive systematic study of the theory and practice of patriotic education in Ukrainian schools during the second half of the 20th – early 21st centuries. The analysis of these works suggests that the formation of a new man was considered by the classics of Marxism-Leninism as one of the main tasks of building a new society, and international and patriotic education was an important component of this process. It was found that the scientific works of the Soviet period, devoted to the educational process in general and patriotic education in particular, are important because they contain significant factual material and allow to characterize the socio-political and pedagogical contexts of the problem. At the same time, the expressed ideas are distinguished by bias, connection with Marxist-Leninist ideology, lack of objective assessment of pre-Soviet pedagogy and foreign pedagogical theory and practice, as well as the state and prospects of patriotic education in the Soviet state. The historiographical analysis made it possible to substantiate the theoretical and methodological principles of research (educational concepts, directions, types and principles of patriotic education, features of the organization and methods of its implementation in schools of Ukraine). It was found that the content, forms and methods of patriotic education of students have undergone transformations under the influence of socio-political, cultural and socio-pedagogical factors. The conducted research does not exhaust all aspects of the researched problem and testifies to the necessity of further elaboration of the issue of patriotic education of Ukrainian schoolchildren in the period of independence.

  • Research Article
  • 10.24147/2413-6182.2023.10(3).489-504
Социолектная идиоматика и юмор (на материале шутливых и иронических сленговых фразеологизмов конца XX - начала XXI в.)
  • Jan 1, 2023
  • Communication studies
  • Lyubov Viktorovna Balashova

The article analyzes slang humorous and ironic phraseological units of the late 20th - early 21st century in the linguistic, cognitive and cultural aspects, containing direct or indirect nominations of socially significant realities in their internal form. The purpose of the work is to identify the sources and semantics of these idioms. The material of the study was 262 phraseological units identified in special dictionaries of the late 20th - early 21st century, as well as in the author's personal file cabinet. On the basis of a complex methodology, including modern semantic, functional-stylistic, linguo-cognitive and linguo-culturological methods of analyzing language units, thematic groups of socially significant phenomena reflected in the internal form of idioms were identified; their semantics is analyzed, as well as some features of the picture of the world of slang carriers of the late 20th - early 21st century. It is noted that lexemes and precedent texts related to domestic socio-political, ideological and cultural realities of the Soviet era become the main source of playfully ironic phraseological units. It is emphasized that the basic property of the semantics of phraseological units is their anthropocentricity - with an emphasis on physiology and negative personal and social properties of a person. It is concluded that jokingly ironic slang phraseological units reflect the everyday picture of the world of the "average" Russian city dweller of the late 20th - early 21st century.

  • Research Article
  • Cite Count Icon 14
  • 10.1007/s11430-012-4430-3
The projected temporal evolution in the interannual variability of East Asian summer rainfall by CMIP3 coupled models
  • Jul 2, 2012
  • Science China Earth Sciences
  • Yuanhai Fu

The projected temporal evolution in the interannual variability of East Asian summer rainfall in the 21st century is investigated here, by analyzing the simulated results of 18 coupled models under the 20th century climate experiment and scenario A1B. The multi-model ensemble (MME) mean projects two prominent changes in the interannual variability of East Asian summer rainfall in the 21st century under scenario A1B. The first change occurs around the 2030s, with a small change before and a large increase afterward. The intensity of the interannual variability increases up to approximately 0.53 mm/d in the 2070s, representing an increase of approximately 30% relative to the early 21st century. The second change happens around the 2070s, with a decrease afterward. By the end of the 21st century, the increase is approximately 12% relative to the early 21st century. The interannual variability of two circulation factors, the western North Pacific subtropical high (WNPSH) and the East Asian upper-tropospheric jet (EAJ), are also projected to exhibit two prominent changes around the 2030s and 2070 under scenario A1B, with consistent increases and decreases afterward, respectively. The MME result also projects two prominent changes in the interannual variability of water vapor transported to East Asia at 850 hPa, which occurs separately around the 2040s and 2070s, with a persistent increase and decrease afterward. Meanwhile, the precipitable water interannual variability over East Asia and the western North Pacific is projected to exhibit two prominent enhancements around the 2030s and 2060s and an increase from 0.1 kg/m2 in the early 21st century to 0.5 kg/m2 at the end of the 21st century, implying a continuous intensification in the interannual variability of the potential precipitation. Otherwise, the intensities of the three factors’ (except EAJ) interannual variability are all projected to be stronger at the end of the 21st century than that in the early period. These studies indicate that the change of interannual variability of the East Asian summer rainfall is caused by the variability of both the dynamic and thermodynamic variables under scenario A1B. In the early and middle 21st century, both factors lead to an intensified interannual variability of rainfall, whereas the dynamic factors weaken the interannual variability, and the thermodynamic factor intensifies the interannual variability in the late period.

  • Research Article
  • 10.24224/2227-1295-2017-8-241-260
Противостояние Саудовской Аравии и Ирана в зоне Персидского залива в конце XX — начале XXI веков
  • Jan 1, 2017
  • Nauchnyy dialog
  • V A Kuzmin + 1 more

The article is devoted to the problem of the struggle for leadership in the Persian Gulf region in the late 20th - early 21st centuries. The article covers developments in the region, starting with the victory of the Islamic revolution in Iran in 1979. The main attention is paid to the international implications of the Iranian revolution, years of the Iran-Iraq war, the invasion of Kuwait by Iraq, international forces operations against these aggressive actions by Iraq. The question is that after the victory of the Islamic revolution, Iran emerged on the regional stage as a clear contender for the role of a new leader. It is shown that the main enemy of Iran is the Kingdom of Saudi Arabia. Special attention is paid to identifying the various forms and methods through which Iran and Saudi Arabia are fighting for leadership in the Persian Gulf. Novelty of research consists in that it is carried out on the basis of the analysis of a very wide range of sources and literature in the Arabic language, loosely used in the works of other scientists. The research urgency is caused by the fact that the study of the above historical events allows a better understanding of some contemporary phenomena and processes occurring in the middle East.

  • Research Article
  • Cite Count Icon 1
  • 10.30853/pa20240059
Феномен бизнес-мемуаров в англоязычном социокультурном контексте конца XX – начала XXI в.
  • Dec 26, 2024
  • Pan-Art
  • Bogdan Vyacheslavovich Efremov

The purpose of the study is to identify the cultural specificity of memoir texts of entrepreneurs of the late 20th – early 21st centuries. The article defines the cultural and historical prerequisites for the formation of business memoirs as a modification of the memoir text. The main attention is paid to the description of the cultural and historical events that influenced the formation of the typology and periodization of the memoir text in Western Europe and the United States. In addition, a descriptive analysis of the structural and substantive characteristics in modern memoir texts of entrepreneurs is presented, through which the reasons for the increased demand for entrepreneurial memoirs were identified. The scientific novelty of the study consists in determining the genesis of business memoirs as a type of memoir text and systematizing the structural and substantive characteristics of English-speaking entrepreneurs’ memoirs based on their cultural context. As a result of the study, it was found that the current popularity of business memoirs in Western countries is explained by their technical development, as well as the cultural tradition of doing business and the tradition of writing memoirs. It was also established that the above-described traditions are a consequence of the development in the United States of ideas and images of Puritanism as a branch of Christianity.

  • Research Article
  • 10.25281/0869-608x-2024-73-3-255-262
Personal Libraries in Russia: Research Results
  • Jun 24, 2024
  • Bibliotekovedenie [Russian Journal of Library Science]
  • Olga V Moreva

The study of personal libraries is important for understanding socio-cultural processes that cannot be assessed by examining other historical events, phenomena and facts. The article deals with the monograph by O.N. Ilyina “Personal Libraries in Russia: Terminology and Historiography” (St. Petersburg, 2022), published in the series “The Book in Russia in the 19th — early 20th Century” by the Russian National Library and the winner of the All-Russian competition of scientific works on library science, bibliography and book studies in the nomination “The best scientific work in the field of library science” in 2023. The structure of the historical and book studies edition, the content of the chapters and the peculiarities of the author’s approach to the coverage of historiography, as well as the stages of the formation of terminology for the study of personal libraries in the domestic humanitarian knowledge in the second half of the 18th — early 21st century are characterized. The emphasis is made on the artificiality of the division of periods in the study of personal libraries in 1917, noted by O.N. Ilyina, because up to the end of the 1920s, book historians, whose professional career began before the October events of 1917, continued to carry out active research activities. This idea is confirmed by contemporary works devoted to the life and work of book historians and bibliographers born in the second half of the 19th century. Special attention is paid to the terminology for describing the history of book collections as a whole (and the collections within them), as well as book marks and marginalia in individual copies. A number of remarks on the design of the reference apparatus of the edition and the rubrication of the text are made, which, however, do not prevent interested readers. The quality, relevance and scientific novelty of the monograph are noted.

  • Research Article
  • 10.1353/flm.2018.0010
Native Americans in the Movies: Portrayals from Silent Films to the Present by Michael Hilger (review)
  • Jun 1, 2018
  • Film & History: An Interdisciplinary Journal

Reviewed by: Native Americans in the Movies: Portrayals from Silent Films to the Present by Michael Hilger Mª Elena Serrano Moya Native Americans in the Movies: Portrayals from Silent Films to the Present Michael Hilger Lanham, Md.: Rowman & Littlefield, 2015, 464 pages, ISBN 978-1-4422-4001-8 When Michael Hilger published From Savage to Nobleman: Images of Native Americans in Film in 1995, the United States of America was still recovering from the post-celebration blues of the quincentenary of the arrival of Christopher Columbus to the American continent. The first years of the decade witnessed a resurgence of Native protests about the American Holocaust, as some Native scholars have called it, and its problematic celebration. The film industry, which is always a measure of the social temperature, released several key Indian-themed movies with huge success. Thus, at that time, Hilger's book was a necessary shout-out to those who had suddenly discovered Native Americans in movies. Twenty years later it was necessary to continue with that work, as the portrayal of Native Americans in movies has not ended and the participation of Native American actors and directors in the movie industry has increased. Therefore, not only does Hilger add more titles from last decade of the 20th century and from the first two decades of 21st but he has also updated some of the information from the first edition, reorganized the book, corrected and changed some information and added a valuable index of movies. This update has made it a 'must' for scholars concerned with depictions of Native Americans in films or film history. The book is composed of three main chapters: a filmography chapter in which movies are organized in alphabetical order, and several appendixes organizing the titles according to the nation the native characters belong to; a chapter on the portrayal of Native Americans; and a classification of TV movies with a useful presentation of movies in chronological order. Hilger begins by presenting and explaining the two traditional stereotypes of Native Americans in movies, the Noble Red Man and the Savage, and how they have become tools for the white establishment to reflect and address the issues of their times. Thus, films with Native Americans characters have generally been concerned with white issues and have failed to fully represent or develop their native characters. In this introductory chapter, Hilger also comments briefly on Native American females and ends with some comments about the importance of editing and how it shapes our perceptions of these characters. Thus, a close-up of a Native American character with the appropriate lighting and low-angle shot will make him threatening, such as the first time Scar or Geronimo appears in The Searchers. The following chapter takes us on a visual tour from the Silent Period to the Present. In this edition, instead of writing individual chapters for each decade finishing with a comprehensive list of films from that decade as the author did in his previous edition, he has now opted to gather all the information in a unique chapter. I find this grouping more clear and effective as readers are offered a visual account of how the films and the depictions of Native Americans were embedded in social and historical events in those decades. For instance, the celebration of the arrival of Columbus not only brought a renewed interest in and image of Native Americans but it also brought attention to Native Americans directors like Chris Eyre or Sterlin Harjo, who are constructing a new visual portrayal of Native Americans with their own voices and words. The titles from the late 1990s and early 21st century are welcome, for there aren't many books that cover more current films. (An exception is M. Elise Marubbio's Killing the Indian Maiden (2006), with its analysis of images of Native American women in movies, which takes us to 2005). It is true that we encounter individual articles about specific movies but I believe that researchers, students [End Page 68] and historians need more comprehensive and thorough works like Hilger's. Even more, Hilger's book comments on some movies that rarely appear in the analysis of...

  • Preprint Article
  • 10.5194/egusphere-egu24-7849
On the decadal changes of Atlantic-Pacific interactions and the effects of external forcing
  • Nov 27, 2024
  • Soufiane Karmouche + 5 more

We show the results of a study investigating the predominant role of external forcing in steering Atlantic and Pacific ocean variability during the latter half of the 20th (and early 21st) century. By employing the PCMCI+ causal discovery method, we analyze reanalysis data, pacemaker simulations, and a CMIP6 pre-industrial control run. The results reveal a gradual (multi)decadal change in the interactions between major modes of Atlantic and Pacific interannual climate variability from 1950 to 2014. A sliding window analysis identifies a diminishing El Niño-Southern Oscillation (ENSO) effect on the adjacent Atlantic basin through the tropical route, coinciding with the North Atlantic trending toward and maintaining an anomalously warm state after the mid-1980s. In reanalysis, this is accompanied by the prevalence of an extra-tropical pathway connecting ENSO to the tropical Atlantic. Meanwhile, causal networks from reanalysis and pacemaker simulations indicate that increased external forcing might have contributed to strengthening ENSO’s opposite sign response to tropical Atlantic variability during the 1990s and early 21st century, where warming tropical Atlantic sea surface temperatures induced La Niña-like easterly winds in the equatorial Pacific. The analysis of the pre-industrial control run underscores that modes of natural climate variability in the Atlantic and Pacific influence each other also without anthropogenic forcing. Modulation of these interactions by the long-term states of both basins is observed. This work demonstrates the potential of causal discovery for a deeper understanding of mechanisms driving changes in regional and global climate variability. Karmouche, S., Galytska, E., Meehl, G.A., Runge, J.,Weigel, K.,& Eyring,V. (2023b, in review). Changing effects of external forcing on Atlantic-Pacific interactions. EGUsphere, 2023, 1–36. https://doi.org/10.5194/egusphere-2023-18

  • Research Article
  • 10.18688/aa2414-7-45
Blind and Automatic Drawing in the Late 20th — Early 21st Centuries in the Art of Western and Eastern Europe
  • Oct 11, 2024
  • Actual Problems of Theory and History of Art
  • Yevgenia Kiseleva-Afflerbach

Drawing with eyes closed and other non-visual art practices in the late 20th – early 21st centuries clearly resonate with the avant-garde critique of rational vision and the post-war tradition of overcoming collective trauma. Being affected by current personal or geopolitical events, contemporary artists are often ready to close their eyes. This paper aims at tracing the origins of non-visual techniques in the art of the early 21st century, as well as at comparing them with the methods of the Dada, Surrealists, Futurists, and other experiment groups of the early 20th century. Let us trace how drawing reveals a connection with tactility and bodily interaction in different periods, how blind and automatic drawing becomes a method of exploring a non-obvious, deferred meaning. These practices allow multiple interpretations of the art work and such polysemy becomes a part of the artistic statement — there can be no certainty about what exactly we see and how we relate to it. The article provides examples of different artistic strategies for using blindness as a creative method in the late 20th – early 21st centuries, when rethinking of traditional creative techniques, among other things, leads to the rejection of visual control and dominance of one sensory channel.

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  • Research Article
  • 10.18500/1817-7115-2024-24-3-257-263
Тенденции неологизации глагольной лексики в конце XX – начале XXI вв.
  • Aug 22, 2024
  • Izvestiya of Saratov University. Philology. Journalism
  • Daria G Orlova

The article deals with the problem of language neologization on the example of suffixal verbal neologisms that appeared in the late 20th – early 21st centuries. The process of neologization occurs in a language with varying degrees of intensity in different language periods. In the late 20th – early 21st centuries, the language is replenished with a large number of neologisms due to extralinguistic factors – significant changes taking place in society. Dictionaries of neologisms were taken as research material: “Explanatory dictionary of the Russian language in the late 20th century: language changes”, a three-volume dictionary-reference book on press and literature materials of the 1990s of the 20th century “New words and meanings”, dictionary materials “New in the Russian vocabulary” 2015–2022, “Dictionary of the internet language.ru”. The process of forming new verbs in the period under review is quite active. Neological suffixal verbal vocabulary is represented by word-forming neologisms, which are based on the Russian-language stems, on borrowings already assimilated by the Russian language, as well as on words that came directly from the English language. At the turn of the millennium, the vocabulary was most often replenished by verbs of the functional-semantic field of activity and behavior. A characteristic feature of the Russian language in the late 20th – early 21st centuries is the formation of suffixal verbal neologisms from proper names: both Russian and foreign ones. In addition, the article shows that new suffixal formations enter word-production relations, thereby becoming a productive base for prefixed verbs of various modifications, as well as relations of homonymy and word-formation variation.

  • Research Article
  • Cite Count Icon 5
  • 10.46493/2663-2675.33(2).2023.57-64
The role of natural resources in international relations in the 20th – early 21st century
  • Feb 28, 2023
  • Foreign Affairs
  • Valery Tsybukh

The availability of natural resources has always been one of the most important aspects of international relations, which have historically developed as a system of interconnections between different countries. However, there is a problem of natural resource scarcity in the world, thus, it is necessary to understand how markets influence national policies and how states can intervene and regulate the balance of natural resources and energy markets, which is the relevance of the study. The purpose of the study is to determine the impact of natural resources on the development of international relations in the 20th – early 21st centuries. To achieve this purpose, the study uses general scientific and special methods: historical, synchronous and diachronic, logical, analysis and synthesis, generalisation and quantitative comparison, scientific abstraction, and comparative analysis. The study established that the United States of America, South America and the Middle East had significant reserves of oil, natural gas, coal and precious metals. In addition, as noted, at the end of the 20th century, the issue of energy security was increasingly used to define international energy policy, and at the beginning of the 21st century, energy became one of the important aspects of geopolitics and an instrument of geopolitical competition. The consolidation of economic interests realised through the exploitation of natural resources is becoming the foundation for conflicts between different countries seeking to dominate the global resource market. It is established that the policy of the United States of America in the Middle East was based on an attempt to control natural resources, and in South America - on supporting its national interests. The practical significance of the study allows exploring key issues in international relations for an in-depth understanding of the balance of geopolitical forces in the 20th – early 21st centuries

  • Research Article
  • 10.24144/2523-4498.1(44).2021.233333
DEBATES ON THE CAROLINGIAN FRANKS’ ARMORED CAVALRY IN WESTERN HISTORIOGRAPHY OF THE SECOND PART OF THE 20TH – BEGINNING OF THE 21ST CENTURIES: SELECTED ISSUES
  • Jun 27, 2021
  • Scientific Herald of Uzhhorod University. Series: History
  • Wolodymyr Hucul

The article is devoted to the analysis of the late 20th – early 21st centuries’ historiographical polemics around the origin and development of the Frankish armored cavalry in the Carolingian era. The discussion broke out around the theses about the military superiority of the Frankish armored cavalry (composed of people from the upper strata of society) of the Carolingian era and, as a consequence, about the rapid spread of the military technology cultivated among the Carolingian horsemen-aristocrats, accompanied by their inherent stereotypes and behavioral patterns of Latin Europe. These issues were raised in the early 1960s by the American scholar Lynn White (1907-1987). The main factor of the military, technological and political transformations that took place in the kingdom of the Franks during the 8th century, according to White, was the process of introducing a stirrup into the equipment of the Frankish cavalry. Since then, almost every work on the history of chivalry and medieval military affairs published in the Western world begins with discussing this. The main purpose of this article is to analyze the course of a dramatic historiographic controversy surrounding Lynn White's stance on the development of armored cavalry in the Carolingian world and the history of chivalry in general. These theses found both ardent supporters (Robert Bartlett, Alex Roland, Dominic Barthelemy) and uncompromising critics (Bernard Bachrach). There has been no academic consensus on the issues of the armored cavalry’s genesis and force level in the Carolingian era. However, the polemic clarified several important issues related to the history of chivalry and chivalric military technology. First, it is its evolutionary and lasting nature, not the revolutionary and sudden changes that took place in the society and the army of the Carolingian kingdom in the 8th – 9th centuries. Secondly, it is the direct dependence of socio-economic life in medieval Europe on military technology and, more narrowly, on the development of weapons and concepts and practices of its usage. And thirdly, the influence of the concepts of military and cultural determinism on Western medieval studies of the second half of the 20th – early 21stcenturies. However, a quietus to the argument about chivalry in Carolingian world has not been given yet.

  • Research Article
  • 10.31866/2617-7951.6.2.2023.292162
Balamuts as Traditional Ukrainian Jewelry of the 19th – Early 21st Centuries
  • Oct 30, 2023
  • Demiurge: Ideas, Technologies, Perspectives of Design
  • Olga Shkolna + 1 more

The purpose of the research is to determine the sources of inspiration and artistic features of balamuts in Ukrainian folk costumes of the 19th – early 21st centuries. Research methods are ontological, hermeneutic, axiological, historical-genetic, historical-chronological, comparative, socio-cultural, iconographic, and art analysis. The research toolkit is designed to help understand the sources of inspiration and artistic features of balamuts in Ukrainian folk costumes. The scientific novelty is based on the introduction into scientific circulation of the essence of the concept of “balamut” in Ukrainian jewelry of the 19th – early 21st centuries, in particular, wedding jewelry. Conclusions. Since ancient times, it has been customary to wear pearls in the territory of modern Ukraine, and following the Hellenic-Scythian and Byzantine fashion, it was first among men. Pearls were part of the initiation jewelry of representatives of the elites of Sassanid Iran from the time of Shapur I, who ruled in the 3rd century. AD, and Shapur II (ruled in the 4th century), and gradually became part of the culture of the Greek colonies of the Crimea and the Black Sea. Pearls from the time of antiquity were a sign of initiation stems (at first, ribbons decorated with round and teardrop-shaped pearls, and later on hoops – crown-like diadems). After the first centuries after the birth of Christ, these accessories, which replaced the laurel wreaths of pagan times, became part of the complete image of the Roman emperor. Thus, as early as the 4th century, the son of Constantine the Great, Emperor Constantius II (337–361), wore a diadem with a pearl base, modeled after the Sassanid coronation ornaments. Justinian the Great, an Illyrian by origin, in 548 was depicted wearing a crown with prependulis and a fibula with pearls, later pearls firmly became part of the coronation accessories of the following dynasties of Byzantine rulers, who had both eastern (primarily Persian and Armenian) and western (Balkan) roots. Taking into account that in several centuries the heiresses of Byzantine emperors began to marry Kievan Russian princes, this tradition of using pearls gradually became part of local customs. So, already in the 10th century Svyatoslav, the son of Igor and Olga, wore a colt with pearls and a red garnet in his ear. Later pearls, including fossilized, fossil, made from a thick layer of mother-of-pearl of ancient shells (balamuts) from the 19th century gradually became part of Ukrainian wedding outfits.

  • Research Article
  • 10.30857/2617-0272.2022.1.1
ARTISTIC AND COMPOSITIONAL FEATURES OF CHILDREN'S COSTUME IN UKRAINE OF THE 20th – EARLY 21st CENTURIES
  • Oct 6, 2022
  • Art and Design
  • O D Gerasymenko + 3 more

Purpose. The study of artistic imagery of children's costume by Ukrainian fashion designers of the 20th – early 21st centuries, establishment of features and patterns in the repetition of artistic and compositional solutions of children's costume, identification of established trends and innovations in the decoration of children's clothing.
 Methodology. Visual-analytical method, morphological, artistic-compositional and retrospective analysis were applied.
 Results. As a result of the analysis of children's clothing models of Ukrainian designers and brands, the artistic and compositional features of children's costumes and current trends in the decoration of children's clothing of the 20th – early 21st centuries are identified. It is determined that during this period, possibilities for the implementation of artistic imagery of clothing for children have expanded due to innovative materials and decoration technologies, but even in our time, traditional types of decoration that have been characteristic of children's costumes for centuries do not lose their relevance.
 The scientific novelty of the research consists in identifying features of artistic and figurative solutions of children's clothing by designers of Ukrainian fashion houses and leading trends in the decoration of children's costumes in Ukraine of the 20th – early 21st centuries.
 Practical significance. The collected materials and their analysis allowed to summarize information about artistic solutions and children's costumes by designers of Ukrainian fashion houses, which can serve as a basis for further research on the history of fashion and children's clothing design, information base for creating new collections of children's clothing.

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